tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87234155875282253152024-02-02T13:42:13.294-08:00Alex and Ron's TravelsIn 2012 I retired again and we are traveling in Europe. In 2009 Ron and I retired and we volunteered at Quaker Meeting House in Wellington, New Zealand for a year.AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-18486236867416340222013-05-12T09:00:00.002-07:002013-05-12T09:20:38.663-07:00Den Haag, Netherlands<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAq-EouN81GbODb2EOdUxQn7uZRln_p7kBZNZ7ZxQRJcX_4uuAFHnnuQn3lq1OcobDzKyUcoJTWxNtgcbjEmaCKuLgc8F_VXy2YQthPgo20a8IFbQ63VnM0zXGKQQQzud4id67r1cEsM/s1600/10+Dutch+park+and+ride.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAq-EouN81GbODb2EOdUxQn7uZRln_p7kBZNZ7ZxQRJcX_4uuAFHnnuQn3lq1OcobDzKyUcoJTWxNtgcbjEmaCKuLgc8F_VXy2YQthPgo20a8IFbQ63VnM0zXGKQQQzud4id67r1cEsM/s200/10+Dutch+park+and+ride.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dutch Park-n-Ride</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On April 23 we flew from
Lisbon to the Netherlands by way of Frankfurt airport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We took a taxi to Leiden where we met our
Wimdu host who drove us on to our apartment in The Hague.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This turned out to be luxuriously spacious
and bright.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The kitchen even included an
electric orange juicer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The street was
quiet, overlooking a canal, but just a couple of blocks away were some busy
streets full of restaurants and markets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The city center was an easy walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are lots of trams and buses to take one around the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of The Hague is 4 to 5 story buildings
with some high rise areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are
canals everywhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most dangerous
thing we found about walking around town was all the bicycles - also roller
skaters, motorized wheelchairs, scooters, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They come at you from any direction, because they don’t seem to feel
they have to obey road rules.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also the
occasional uneven brick in the sidewalk would try and trip me up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But we managed to avoid injury.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAyo4EwEwj54P7nVOd9KuV3cDv7rln9Q2L1FdrDHhnNXAxqjFCxG3qmNYc47NBTyXYCP5lyjDkH9t68TDsQpVu9mp8yW09udFxNvA8EMyXAU6AnBv93rYxpL6ZaEquG7K-hpFl66-KcXM/s1600/11+Ridderzaal.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAyo4EwEwj54P7nVOd9KuV3cDv7rln9Q2L1FdrDHhnNXAxqjFCxG3qmNYc47NBTyXYCP5lyjDkH9t68TDsQpVu9mp8yW09udFxNvA8EMyXAU6AnBv93rYxpL6ZaEquG7K-hpFl66-KcXM/s200/11+Ridderzaal.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ridderzaal</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Although Amsterdam is the
capital, The Hague is actually where parliament meets and where most of the
government buildings are, plus a few royal palaces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The oldest government building in town is
Ridderzaal (the Hall of Knights) built in the 13<sup>th<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></sup>Century by the Count of Holland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now it is surrounded by a growing group of
buildings known as the Binnenhof, which house parliament and other government
offices.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the outside of the Binnenhof
there is a large pond called the Hofvijver.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We would often find ourselves walking down there or through the courtyard
of the Binnenhof.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a number of
plazas there (and other places around town) where the Dutch love to have coffee
or a drink in the open air, if at all possible.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Next to the Binnenhof is
the Hague’s most famous museum, the Mauritshaus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, it is undergoing renovations
and so it is closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of the
paintings are on tour to other countries, but many are in other museums.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw 150 at the Gemeentemuseum, including
Rembrandt, Vermeer, Jan Steen, and many other wonderful paintings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the main collection we enjoyed an exhibit
of paintings by Gustave Caillebot, along with photos similar to many of his
Parisian scenes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The main event during our
stay was the retirement of Queen Beatrix (by abdication) and the investiture of
her son Willem-Alexander as king.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
occurred on Queen’s Day, which is always a National Holiday.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since this was a Tuesday, everyone mostly
took a long weekend, and lots of things were closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shops and people were decorated in
orange.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were concert stages set up
at 6-7 locations around the city with music the night before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We waked around to two.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the festivities took place in Amsterdam,
and we watched on TV.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ceremony was
actually a session of Parliament, which installed Willem-Alexander as
King.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He then swore to uphold the
constitution and watch over the country and gave a speech.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then every member of Parliament stood up and
swore allegiance to the new King. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About
half invoked God, and the other half didn’t.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I read that 16 members refused to swear, but I couldn’t tell the
difference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were many royal
guests, including a lot of crown princes who probably wish their parents would
be as sensible as Beatrix.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOlPz7UFeEaqvpnH8c3tqrrDLPpRjoSPua1NPLemqw36j1or9jBB2VzJ16gG6AwacTewL1HayqsEBhrZ9fgt2KJYg7mr1_ZZRWrHYnrqdLtl_MLEujkZE_35UT1d77NlMtWUg1aYDA6E/s1600/12+Escher+Museum.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOlPz7UFeEaqvpnH8c3tqrrDLPpRjoSPua1NPLemqw36j1or9jBB2VzJ16gG6AwacTewL1HayqsEBhrZ9fgt2KJYg7mr1_ZZRWrHYnrqdLtl_MLEujkZE_35UT1d77NlMtWUg1aYDA6E/s200/12+Escher+Museum.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escher Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Another theme for our
visit was that The Hague is celebrating Constantijn and Christiaan Huygens in
2013, although it doesn’t seem to be an anniversary year for either.
Constantijn was secretary to 2 Princes of Orange in the 17<sup>th</sup>
century, and also a poet, musician, and art collector.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His son Christiaan was a scientist who studied
light as a wave and discovered Saturn’s moon Titan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another son, Constantijn II, was also a
diplomat and secretary to the William of Orange who became King of England in
1688 along with Mary Stuart as Queen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Grote Kerk, near where we were staying, had a big exhibit about
them, and a number of smaller museums also particularly featured Constantijn I
because of his influence with art collecting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I particularly enjoyed the Bredius museum and the Prince William V
Gallery because they were small collections, so it was easy to concentrate on
the particular pictures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzgzSBZL35FG9GwJynQiKJFrT1pX6Kn2_daeNBNdCePBwOyZAfuQw69dxfJIoWpZIOhLSJtle-_TOLJfoGMA9QKar6QxiSCk0BoiAo5hd2yUwZiWaX8EELeo-cwV4uOfPflSx0o5j-ahs/s1600/12+Stairwell+at+Escher+Museum.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzgzSBZL35FG9GwJynQiKJFrT1pX6Kn2_daeNBNdCePBwOyZAfuQw69dxfJIoWpZIOhLSJtle-_TOLJfoGMA9QKar6QxiSCk0BoiAo5hd2yUwZiWaX8EELeo-cwV4uOfPflSx0o5j-ahs/s200/12+Stairwell+at+Escher+Museum.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escher Museum staircase</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Another fun museum was the
Escher Gallery, which is in a small palace that Queen Wilhelmina (the great-grandmother
of the current king) used to use.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Besides the Escher prints to look at, there were also descriptions of
how each room had been used and how it was furnished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was very interesting to see the
development of Escher’s work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He
started off more conventional with landscapes and natural objects, although he
always liked mirrors, odd perspectives, and a geometric design.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His tessellations and other familiar works
are still fascinating, and it was just a small enough exhibition not to get
tired or overwhelmed by repetition.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-z9BN94WUJm9EpVMxIucnJXuZ1wlXLwxX-W6yVtgSWKS-kYg3UIMn-s0A7IpDfBDduFuE07f5br4eOjHmYxE7xr-SemPYLsnClVbXD4ch8MXh5aVJTIZOlF2mhyV6J3YS78urToObKoI/s1600/13+Tulip+garden.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-z9BN94WUJm9EpVMxIucnJXuZ1wlXLwxX-W6yVtgSWKS-kYg3UIMn-s0A7IpDfBDduFuE07f5br4eOjHmYxE7xr-SemPYLsnClVbXD4ch8MXh5aVJTIZOlF2mhyV6J3YS78urToObKoI/s200/13+Tulip+garden.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keukenhof tulips</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We took three outings away
from town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One day while Ron was still
doing research, I went to the Keukenhof Gardens by train to Leiden and then
bus, about an hour’s travel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Keukenhof claims to be the world’s largest spring bulb garden.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is quite impressive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was there on a cool but sunny day with lots
of other people, which actually was fun and festive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was pretty much mid-season, so there were
not many areas where the flowers had faded, nor many where the buds had not yet
opened.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPN6S61NDArHaWMwEo0QZRg_ukmn8xRf3z3EdOEu_8wBjWYaG5MdZmfYiivA2c-hPHfx5ybvL4ZIrMP54NZVqRvHATCFzv4ytbBcrtYpTHXoBo6alEXd-UA8yC6CtBTOCbpkgOCA-Zvk/s1600/13+flower+fields.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinPN6S61NDArHaWMwEo0QZRg_ukmn8xRf3z3EdOEu_8wBjWYaG5MdZmfYiivA2c-hPHfx5ybvL4ZIrMP54NZVqRvHATCFzv4ytbBcrtYpTHXoBo6alEXd-UA8yC6CtBTOCbpkgOCA-Zvk/s200/13+flower+fields.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flower fields</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">There were yellow, white,
purple, red, pink, orange, blue, and striped tulips, hyacinths and daffodils in
all kinds of bedding arrangements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Around the periphery of the garden, and along the train and bus routes,
there were also flower fields – an acre of yellow daffodils, then one of purple
hyacinths, and smaller plots too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
definitely an archetypical picture of Holland, although I have actually been
surprised at how little flower plantings there are in the city. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAakjMEbXpkgNO0mcJFsyOrxkNHUeHeZFM4jsKD4cFppTi6OT5XaflhCM6Cd7dgcPCD6EEQ7fkoLLUq5af_GB7mVZ_pwCXkvDwxL85AxCjlXXMnFuC1SpiMBn0pykGYvuBtoeJ7SkKOQw/s1600/14+Madurodam+Ridderzall.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAakjMEbXpkgNO0mcJFsyOrxkNHUeHeZFM4jsKD4cFppTi6OT5XaflhCM6Cd7dgcPCD6EEQ7fkoLLUq5af_GB7mVZ_pwCXkvDwxL85AxCjlXXMnFuC1SpiMBn0pykGYvuBtoeJ7SkKOQw/s200/14+Madurodam+Ridderzall.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ridderzaal Madurodam</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFAdQqR9qlMQB_F_3O9TcU1CQwSxxb2wh2nFlnzOJo1-MFVfV_ndguxRo3hvACmakTtd1V_SWieHyg5SwL9uqMyfXIUI2p9HBcmHBBNIpH7t14cevqwTPmp5CfHTsD7WdsNoXB5loHVYA/s1600/14+Madurodam+farm+and+train.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFAdQqR9qlMQB_F_3O9TcU1CQwSxxb2wh2nFlnzOJo1-MFVfV_ndguxRo3hvACmakTtd1V_SWieHyg5SwL9uqMyfXIUI2p9HBcmHBBNIpH7t14cevqwTPmp5CfHTsD7WdsNoXB5loHVYA/s200/14+Madurodam+farm+and+train.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madurodam farm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">A second expedition was to
the miniature town of Madurodam, which I remember visiting when six years old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is still almost as magical.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is about an acre of scale model (1:25, I
believe) of iconic Dutch buildings from around the country, such as royal
palaces, churches, the Rijksmuseum, the shipping yards of Rotterdam, typical
farmhouses and windmills, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we got
to see models of many buildings we will not see in person on this trip, and we
got some ideas of places we would like to see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One of the fun parts is that it is like being in a huge model train set,
because many sections do have trains or other moving parts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The effect is enhanced by their use of bonsai
trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi86EmvCio1idMb-UQdikMUoiyZ6HW_aJYUsysEEsVfUiSwYzsLMs5oQVeZ_3nddvpli7sS3BAoq4t_-hwsxmMprTE8Tb5bE7cGm1WHfAQAtA0P75ZgVE1jYfklmbBMMnUstc2tF0Dky6I/s1600/14+Madurodam+panorama+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi86EmvCio1idMb-UQdikMUoiyZ6HW_aJYUsysEEsVfUiSwYzsLMs5oQVeZ_3nddvpli7sS3BAoq4t_-hwsxmMprTE8Tb5bE7cGm1WHfAQAtA0P75ZgVE1jYfklmbBMMnUstc2tF0Dky6I/s200/14+Madurodam+panorama+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Madurodam panorama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpDaB7cDVb2SKy99TOX6b8KR8-p4CP3BgjYmRiznlqmyxNjJgwEc9_NayllF0n3y3tPTwNupmWdyLuT6rx6TH2cu2R575Drnlr-uA8bZTU5WpUwu3iUO8ivdG7JWEiV6urJRncV2MmFbQ/s1600/14+Madurodam+panorama+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="134" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpDaB7cDVb2SKy99TOX6b8KR8-p4CP3BgjYmRiznlqmyxNjJgwEc9_NayllF0n3y3tPTwNupmWdyLuT6rx6TH2cu2R575Drnlr-uA8bZTU5WpUwu3iUO8ivdG7JWEiV6urJRncV2MmFbQ/s200/14+Madurodam+panorama+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzMU1Ri7Y6NNeqPKzAxvxl9Qf7QQRUIEaEktJZ0eYD9i8JhGNnae099BRwmvHuTUQlHuQZXA1_EKFUe5XuOvi7tfJXe_uda_WoUvbUMbqS8n3KnokIw_JRO-Xz2lhe2ZFVCcFlrdvIeM/s1600/14+Madurodam+panorama+3.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzMU1Ri7Y6NNeqPKzAxvxl9Qf7QQRUIEaEktJZ0eYD9i8JhGNnae099BRwmvHuTUQlHuQZXA1_EKFUe5XuOvi7tfJXe_uda_WoUvbUMbqS8n3KnokIw_JRO-Xz2lhe2ZFVCcFlrdvIeM/s200/14+Madurodam+panorama+3.jpg" width="200" /></a></span>You cannot walk through most of
the models – they are in small groups that you walk around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the groupings are a mix of buildings
from different towns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only occasionally
is a section all from Amsterdam, say.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpDaB7cDVb2SKy99TOX6b8KR8-p4CP3BgjYmRiznlqmyxNjJgwEc9_NayllF0n3y3tPTwNupmWdyLuT6rx6TH2cu2R575Drnlr-uA8bZTU5WpUwu3iUO8ivdG7JWEiV6urJRncV2MmFbQ/s1600/14+Madurodam+panorama+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzMU1Ri7Y6NNeqPKzAxvxl9Qf7QQRUIEaEktJZ0eYD9i8JhGNnae099BRwmvHuTUQlHuQZXA1_EKFUe5XuOvi7tfJXe_uda_WoUvbUMbqS8n3KnokIw_JRO-Xz2lhe2ZFVCcFlrdvIeM/s1600/14+Madurodam+panorama+3.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a> </span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDcC1dXyMdba_q9seCiqU-OFKGbPkaNbwuFlZVNFAvIjjcR7RPlj8-768_uPVmdmqezPrbHV-bvFkk_k7KWarYreW6igpsUF0H6rbix5QE7XeHtG0YpgujXTuMxVm9FrFJut_M_b1_ys/s1600/15+Delft+New+Kerk.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDcC1dXyMdba_q9seCiqU-OFKGbPkaNbwuFlZVNFAvIjjcR7RPlj8-768_uPVmdmqezPrbHV-bvFkk_k7KWarYreW6igpsUF0H6rbix5QE7XeHtG0YpgujXTuMxVm9FrFJut_M_b1_ys/s200/15+Delft+New+Kerk.jpg" width="143" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delft Square & New Kerk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Our final excursion was to
Delft, a short train ride, and actually still considered part of den Haag’s
city limits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a charming town with
canals (surprise) and small town houses and a lovely large square in the town
center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides being a ceramics center,
it is known as the home of Vermeer, and the old Artist’s Guild Hall has been
converted into a Vermeer Center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It does
not actually have any Vermeer originals, but has reproductions of his 36 known
paintings with interesting information about how and where they were painted,
and the people in them, and some of the influences on his style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was also a guide book so we could walk
around town to places where he had lived.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The other sights in town are the New Kerk and Town Hall on either end of
the town square, and the Old Kerk a few blocks away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is near the Prinsenhof (Prince’s home),
a convent which housed William the Silent of Orange, who led the rebellion against Spanish
rule and was assassinated in that very house in 1584 by someone who hoped to be
rewarded by Spain for the deed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was
the first murder by gun of a head of state.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The bullet holes are still in the wall. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU33L4Ei39mpxAtCrHaV9hgR5GOf66ISoPS8ik3HxnrjTeP5jTe44xf1IngkjUZWKvW4l2JW7OtR-dVPTtugo18THGzcoWwSopEsiZ9yn9t5DOoay_fmRqbE1e3FSbGCm1QrejQxxTKUE/s1600/15+Delft+town+house.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU33L4Ei39mpxAtCrHaV9hgR5GOf66ISoPS8ik3HxnrjTeP5jTe44xf1IngkjUZWKvW4l2JW7OtR-dVPTtugo18THGzcoWwSopEsiZ9yn9t5DOoay_fmRqbE1e3FSbGCm1QrejQxxTKUE/s200/15+Delft+town+house.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delft house</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We enjoyed our stay in The
Hague; it was relaxed; we did not feel like we had to rush to see
everything.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron was able to do some
research on St. Eustatius in the national archives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On May 5 we headed to Amsterdam by train.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJzMU1Ri7Y6NNeqPKzAxvxl9Qf7QQRUIEaEktJZ0eYD9i8JhGNnae099BRwmvHuTUQlHuQZXA1_EKFUe5XuOvi7tfJXe_uda_WoUvbUMbqS8n3KnokIw_JRO-Xz2lhe2ZFVCcFlrdvIeM/s1600/14+Madurodam+panorama+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-49312717660020539722013-04-30T09:40:00.000-07:002013-04-30T10:37:32.217-07:00Outside Lisbon - Coimbra and Tomar<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAol58cfifBVolYpKC7SV-77Ilxrhb4TzklBgbjgt0NYkYWG_nnKWhMHuI1ABWnAiTZDRjbwfTPa5uVXQYeUjD-r4-TEhe6UQVrqeKO-YHv7NXOgyjJWP2SeCMuzJwNLTEnyLdJAzDrA/s1600/10+View+of+University.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAol58cfifBVolYpKC7SV-77Ilxrhb4TzklBgbjgt0NYkYWG_nnKWhMHuI1ABWnAiTZDRjbwfTPa5uVXQYeUjD-r4-TEhe6UQVrqeKO-YHv7NXOgyjJWP2SeCMuzJwNLTEnyLdJAzDrA/s200/10+View+of+University.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coimbra</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">After Leiria, we traveled
by bus to Coimbra, which has the oldest University in Portugal, and one of the
oldest in Europe, established in 1290.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The town is situated on the Mondego River, which is quite wide and
pretty, and has pleasant parks and walkways on either side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our hotel was right across the street from
the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found many pleasant
restaurants there for lunch or dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-YiMHQj8xLTvWHYxSPWjDbMNS5UrD-OHRRcBz5w_tCejfWZcQsUPVMKU-Fj6I-aTLb528Pvd29JvTagxC5bbmLDXw06zKoSAQZ4RVis32Gt-7Obi0ysDrz_ypCOu-G-AkFO8SqCivqI/s1600/12+University+plaza.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf-YiMHQj8xLTvWHYxSPWjDbMNS5UrD-OHRRcBz5w_tCejfWZcQsUPVMKU-Fj6I-aTLb528Pvd29JvTagxC5bbmLDXw06zKoSAQZ4RVis32Gt-7Obi0ysDrz_ypCOu-G-AkFO8SqCivqI/s200/12+University+plaza.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">University plaza</td></tr>
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<br />
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Rising up above the river
is a high hill with the ancient University at the top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(The university has spread out from there
over the centuries.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The University
itself has a large courtyard surrounded by the oldest buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One end of the courtyard is on the bluff with
a great view of the Mondego River valley.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKKOvpRlVXDPhjI5tervLfXowhMDTtOdJuHAeW448kfPsLXmKeWXXvisq0sd5G2GvfsRFsdQ7gUwSDs-jN3cPpDRurrv6aIw6c_6h6x-RT0iAHwdIU_Rs0ZPwYMM7c5e8BCut2pmlTXr4/s1600/13+Monastery+church+of+Santa+Cruz.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKKOvpRlVXDPhjI5tervLfXowhMDTtOdJuHAeW448kfPsLXmKeWXXvisq0sd5G2GvfsRFsdQ7gUwSDs-jN3cPpDRurrv6aIw6c_6h6x-RT0iAHwdIU_Rs0ZPwYMM7c5e8BCut2pmlTXr4/s200/13+Monastery+church+of+Santa+Cruz.jpg" width="165" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church of Santa Cruz</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Although you have to climb to get to the university, from the river it is possible to stay on a reasonable flat
street to get to the heart of the old town, which is the Church of Santa Cruz,
founded in 1131, where the first two kings of Portugal are buried.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, the original Gothic is totally
overlaid with Manueline exuberance and later tile decorations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoFW7NUO2Oeuhb6Qg8SRRtMCXom14tkmeMVVhhAYQpdFyLfD9-ZR6i3ofv5Ehcdx-Gct5SAhUNpcPDuMVjpvgV3sY-x69tRcgP8iZsH64NCDdsVnSd6SyZ6tCyYmvvE3AqDTvI7GHpbo/s1600/14+Tomb+of+Afonso+Henriques.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoFW7NUO2Oeuhb6Qg8SRRtMCXom14tkmeMVVhhAYQpdFyLfD9-ZR6i3ofv5Ehcdx-Gct5SAhUNpcPDuMVjpvgV3sY-x69tRcgP8iZsH64NCDdsVnSd6SyZ6tCyYmvvE3AqDTvI7GHpbo/s200/14+Tomb+of+Afonso+Henriques.jpg" width="191" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomb of Afonso Henriques</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">This contrasts remarkably with the Old
Cathedral (Sé Velha), a bulky Romanesque hulk halfway up the hill, begun in
1162.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is actually a very impressive
church in its solidity and plainness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
only has a few high up windows, so it was reminiscent of a lot of early
churches we saw in Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br /><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFPcgup5nJIL9Sqs_ZEBs9SFORKIU1MIAgmD6znierkfosZPwlw9pdtnaOMLrTb9b9tp97CmNNeGHWT9gZBlQdDKm97OpIdN72oeDlCyJAtaZszct3-PK0FEtmktNvRY3Gc0tOxcQUt8/s1600/15+Old+Cathedral.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYFPcgup5nJIL9Sqs_ZEBs9SFORKIU1MIAgmD6znierkfosZPwlw9pdtnaOMLrTb9b9tp97CmNNeGHWT9gZBlQdDKm97OpIdN72oeDlCyJAtaZszct3-PK0FEtmktNvRY3Gc0tOxcQUt8/s200/15+Old+Cathedral.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Coimbra is also home to
its own version of fado, which we were able to hear in an afternoon
concert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This fado is all romantic
ballads sung by students to their lady loves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is still an ongoing tradition of singing on the street below your
girlfriend’s window.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although we
couldn’t understand the words, which probably are more important in this form,
we could tell the difference from the Lisbon fado, which has a more working or
even under class tone. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPs1usbutC42Fkqa6YQYwS8BJUflcI8aYGxx5L2ss-hWtGLZNsVqvqVGU9cLP-VOCvKHdT3FCtICKb_mX_HhPpXNk3jrSkVcVi4v-uSJupJogYwLxreDkwvpA80gOt893uldw9NKpe-4/s1600/17+Saint+Queen+Isabel.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgPs1usbutC42Fkqa6YQYwS8BJUflcI8aYGxx5L2ss-hWtGLZNsVqvqVGU9cLP-VOCvKHdT3FCtICKb_mX_HhPpXNk3jrSkVcVi4v-uSJupJogYwLxreDkwvpA80gOt893uldw9NKpe-4/s200/17+Saint+Queen+Isabel.jpg" width="159" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saint Queen Isabel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Across the river, there
are also a number of interesting sights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Convent of Santa Clara houses the silver tomb of the Saint Queen of
Portugal, Doña Isabel of Aragon, who died in 1336.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is in the new convent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br /><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSG6R1i7sJfo_tjqfbmyD1caFv00rF00jo-nIFQlg-4eXGCOyKh6ta7FGrGnQhdJPfmSrUYR4CbeFnStNzR3z0Xbi_r8abBBUNFQoW2G3P15T0SGJNY0pI7atS40sAiXukKc7CwBs90QQ/s1600/16+Santa+Clara+-+new+cloister.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSG6R1i7sJfo_tjqfbmyD1caFv00rF00jo-nIFQlg-4eXGCOyKh6ta7FGrGnQhdJPfmSrUYR4CbeFnStNzR3z0Xbi_r8abBBUNFQoW2G3P15T0SGJNY0pI7atS40sAiXukKc7CwBs90QQ/s200/16+Santa+Clara+-+new+cloister.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister of new Santa Clara</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The old convent, built by Queen Isabel, is a
recently restored ruin on the banks of the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This location proved to be prone to frequent
flooding, and the entire first floor was eventually abandoned, and a second
floor built in the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually,
the nuns moved up hill to the new convent, and the old one remained submerged
until recently drained and excavated and a new visitors’ center created. The ruins of the church and cloister were
surprisingly well preserved under the mud, and the visitors’ center does a good
job of describing the monastic life of the order of Saint Claire. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbZu5NtRkFHyg3wXcuWOIaSJ6kysZf0ZJp29M66IVh-XjwUDuAIU7rvxFrIWB2F6H1Q4TMyvXcJWuC2q7G9_AGHSby1xo5MqmVR8H4Jlpdooeg9GxkBcXPPQ8iYEp0YrfDhRa8emwYVc/s1600/18+Santa+Clara+-+old+ruin.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNbZu5NtRkFHyg3wXcuWOIaSJ6kysZf0ZJp29M66IVh-XjwUDuAIU7rvxFrIWB2F6H1Q4TMyvXcJWuC2q7G9_AGHSby1xo5MqmVR8H4Jlpdooeg9GxkBcXPPQ8iYEp0YrfDhRa8emwYVc/s200/18+Santa+Clara+-+old+ruin.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruins of old Santa Clara</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We ate lunch at a villa
turned hotel nearby, which also has a connection to Inȇs de Castro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was one of their hideaways, and it was
here that she was captured by her assassins, though she was actually killed
nearby in Coimbra.</span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Jj5BLjhrDhQa_o0V-0T1MuM6A42geUSqVsw8I2ELoKNjfTqDqHLXOlR3LB2ACivHJ7MT-8LNlfPNuaxVTwu8HIDglEclYrvGZvd6e9MV1w_m6w17seocwXfWqmSgrvOApACb_zPwrFs/s1600/19+Parque+de+Pequinitos+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Jj5BLjhrDhQa_o0V-0T1MuM6A42geUSqVsw8I2ELoKNjfTqDqHLXOlR3LB2ACivHJ7MT-8LNlfPNuaxVTwu8HIDglEclYrvGZvd6e9MV1w_m6w17seocwXfWqmSgrvOApACb_zPwrFs/s200/19+Parque+de+Pequinitos+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portugal dos Pequinitos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally, one of the must
see sights in Coimbra is Portugal dos Pequenitos, founded in 1940, with scale
models of Portuguese houses and monuments, and exhibits about the many
Portuguese colonies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was built in the
1940s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The buildings are big enough to
walk into, especially if you are a child.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The monuments are rather odd as they are pastiches of buildings – a
Manueline window or doorframe, a castle tower or two.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Signs at each building identify the half
dozen different elements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyuGhxyoNWeVwIPm0uufgUDiErchmgwHIfN8yYIS73gwUhtSvbm388PIRBmJlGmlRf6GcQR6go_cjw2wFflAQDXbp4MAWL3kIqpPokTeaDewJjd_sTIaeaZNIKCbjxvigYQr8uZfHCvZE/s1600/19+Parque+de+Pequinitos+2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyuGhxyoNWeVwIPm0uufgUDiErchmgwHIfN8yYIS73gwUhtSvbm388PIRBmJlGmlRf6GcQR6go_cjw2wFflAQDXbp4MAWL3kIqpPokTeaDewJjd_sTIaeaZNIKCbjxvigYQr8uZfHCvZE/s200/19+Parque+de+Pequinitos+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portugal dos Pequinitos</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">I particularly
wanted to see this park, as I hope to go to Madurodam in Holland, which is a
miniature town that I vividly remember from a trip to Europe when I was 6 years
old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The scale of the buildings at
Pequenitos is much bigger, and I think it must be fun to be inside them if you
are six.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_5JG7ZrW30gh226s1FkWXLjdsol0ZxzElWp8c9Ga6oIY7C2THvGnx3_2BWVdRSDUjo-aiG_IU13V9-dY13ApXH7-jw8ytBO_lTEyM5xcZoRwVCBjkUxdqFqQk5qeWio3nyEhH3_iIq8/s1600/20+Conimbriga+water+garden.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_5JG7ZrW30gh226s1FkWXLjdsol0ZxzElWp8c9Ga6oIY7C2THvGnx3_2BWVdRSDUjo-aiG_IU13V9-dY13ApXH7-jw8ytBO_lTEyM5xcZoRwVCBjkUxdqFqQk5qeWio3nyEhH3_iIq8/s200/20+Conimbriga+water+garden.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conimbriga rain garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Outside of Coimbra, about
a half hour bus trip, is the ancient Roman city of Conimbriga, situated on a
hill overlooking a steep ravine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a
remarkably well preserved Roman site because it was not built over and
continuously occupied like so many other places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were many large villas with lovely
mosaics. </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYiDuZ5b4YQFjSvjcpssEb2SIhKqYMCyfEFZq0Vw0j68e-XSkTx957RbnPs5FZUPnRZPXTpWNZnGn0EK6ThucELQxzZGqz7gIbSzSokoQBj73UGmmrqnpnggQDTSsOjt-eHiD_WF_jao/s1600/21+Mosaic.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJYiDuZ5b4YQFjSvjcpssEb2SIhKqYMCyfEFZq0Vw0j68e-XSkTx957RbnPs5FZUPnRZPXTpWNZnGn0EK6ThucELQxzZGqz7gIbSzSokoQBj73UGmmrqnpnggQDTSsOjt-eHiD_WF_jao/s200/21+Mosaic.jpg" width="200" /></a>Many of the courtyards had elaborate water gardens, which I have not
seen before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a large public
bath, and a large forum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have never
been to Pompeii, but this felt almost as exciting, as it is possible to get a
real sense of the Roman town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilZZpoH8J6rKxWfKuZrAmaOPRfQ1J9ov-ltBTUaZOQ6qCsc2sxrARMgyat4fQr2n8XhX8c6EgzfuVjs6t2raaKmS0irqOxTON1UkQE7LMns1XriOXuTOTsKHGXwKNcwFztURd_Ovpm450/s1600/22+Conimbriga+with+wall.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilZZpoH8J6rKxWfKuZrAmaOPRfQ1J9ov-ltBTUaZOQ6qCsc2sxrARMgyat4fQr2n8XhX8c6EgzfuVjs6t2raaKmS0irqOxTON1UkQE7LMns1XriOXuTOTsKHGXwKNcwFztURd_Ovpm450/s200/22+Conimbriga+with+wall.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wall through house</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">One of the
striking things about the town is that when it came under attack by the
Visigoths in the 6<sup>th</sup> century,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>it threw up a big wall, cutting though a number of even fairly large
villas, using stones from everything that was outside the wall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually the wall did not prevent them from
being overrun. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WS6pjDiyQj8UfKo7bu8NgxQRJiEw9ITQPghkbCXaV-PbZ7-cBmhk37q65O3Lf4q3wukL_wPMUWnKFUZlbR__RYbPw7TyklH1-hS1SokufHqgGCrCmJi_is__v-XA2sxibOlvvN2Za4o/s1600/23+Conimbriga+wall.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2WS6pjDiyQj8UfKo7bu8NgxQRJiEw9ITQPghkbCXaV-PbZ7-cBmhk37q65O3Lf4q3wukL_wPMUWnKFUZlbR__RYbPw7TyklH1-hS1SokufHqgGCrCmJi_is__v-XA2sxibOlvvN2Za4o/s200/23+Conimbriga+wall.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wall and road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally, our last stop was
the town of Tomar, also situated on a pretty little river, the Nabão.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Indeed, our hotel was a pleasant old inn on
an island in the river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the
island is a public park, and our room had a large balcony overlooking the park,
with a large trellis of fragrant wisteria framing the view.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnRGUTmc8RK8giIpaRiuq9b8G9aY5-oFcKH9SP6G6ZHLN5gvWH31cg9hyxFyRxhslCVUxxRHLlr9nVySjR9mFbyYBKEN8a9zX66Q-RttpO-z3Yu6m5ZsDWKEFmAghFpBcIsbypJMTZgOw/s1600/30+view+from+Tomar+hotel.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnRGUTmc8RK8giIpaRiuq9b8G9aY5-oFcKH9SP6G6ZHLN5gvWH31cg9hyxFyRxhslCVUxxRHLlr9nVySjR9mFbyYBKEN8a9zX66Q-RttpO-z3Yu6m5ZsDWKEFmAghFpBcIsbypJMTZgOw/s200/30+view+from+Tomar+hotel.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our Tomar balcony</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">It was an easy and pleasant walk to the town
square where there is a 16<sup>th</sup> century church with Manueline doorway
and well done religious painting by the famous-in-Portugal painter Gregorio
Lopes. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVDzUkhPiVzaDT81gTZyQANy92wA7d0SsRji1wGN2VZQmrB2M4qGA3_t8T1O8AUMhfONHegoDl0JvvUxLYSFd58URTecmgngs4ynr-gA4IWC70L7bkubcYcxxjbXX_cqJ6un0qwbYzPQ/s1600/31+Convent+of+Christ.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVDzUkhPiVzaDT81gTZyQANy92wA7d0SsRji1wGN2VZQmrB2M4qGA3_t8T1O8AUMhfONHegoDl0JvvUxLYSFd58URTecmgngs4ynr-gA4IWC70L7bkubcYcxxjbXX_cqJ6un0qwbYzPQ/s200/31+Convent+of+Christ.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Convent of Christ above Tomar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Across the river on a hill
is the main sight of Tomar, the Convent of Christ.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was originally the center for the
Knights Templar of Portugal, an order of crusaders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the crusades were over, kings and pope
decided the Knights had gotten too powerful, so that they were disbanded in
1314.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In Portugal, King Dinis
reconstituted them as the Order of Christ, with himself as Grand Master.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEzR59esrNq-Ysig5rGmHOJ4fjNNdl6KIk2DUmuMulfFue2SYqMdWlvTpIiuS5QCrQp-zZB3tELSMRwLarItdn5spozWQkVabdQKm1euccqZA5n7Dv_sTugAV6l165KsmvTbtxI8d6Fcs/s1600/32+Convent+of+Christ+door.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEzR59esrNq-Ysig5rGmHOJ4fjNNdl6KIk2DUmuMulfFue2SYqMdWlvTpIiuS5QCrQp-zZB3tELSMRwLarItdn5spozWQkVabdQKm1euccqZA5n7Dv_sTugAV6l165KsmvTbtxI8d6Fcs/s200/32+Convent+of+Christ+door.jpg" width="135" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Manueline doorway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">They were much involved with the Portuguese
discoveries and expansion overseas, and so kings and princes, who continued to
head the organization, continued to build and expand the Convent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is by the far the biggest complex we have
been in, with seven cloisters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The core
of the convent is the original Chapel, built in the 12<sup>th</sup> century, a
sixteen sided church with a central alter inside an arched octagon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later a 2 story nave was attached, with the
chapel becoming the apse of the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are also the usual (by now) extravagantly decorated doorways and
windows added by King Manuel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHM4R_vGLma9ZFVDQtdtLeGLAsRRx6JZ6Ynp0-AXQPOyDpWPd0cN2cELgL82QToZ1ioUAJNRGzo-57hz9gcjuYUnKxiL6atV_LZH4eUj0OODub06juDb8wRYJCgYgKbxKKUYb6IxevZ7I/s1600/33+Convent+of+Christ+4.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHM4R_vGLma9ZFVDQtdtLeGLAsRRx6JZ6Ynp0-AXQPOyDpWPd0cN2cELgL82QToZ1ioUAJNRGzo-57hz9gcjuYUnKxiL6atV_LZH4eUj0OODub06juDb8wRYJCgYgKbxKKUYb6IxevZ7I/s200/33+Convent+of+Christ+4.jpg" width="181" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Of
interest was the huge dormitory, a part of monasteries that we were rarely able
to see elsewhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This dormitory was in
the shape of a large T.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The hallway
seemed as wide as a road, and the cells were as big (or bigger) than our tiny apartment
in Lisbon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a choir warming up
for a concert in one cloister, which gave a nice aural element to our tour.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBC-9GPApg0txChE5gHHPG7oXmqVFlBD_4KjBdTZ681-GXg1Z9zKtNBkKywNJqAoKvZTGVcjYBq4HUAbZiz2spjv4CpdetANvveVCXcKs8RcIW4AIqoShDvvKq1BVsCf5oO1sJ0V0jv7w/s1600/34+Synagogue.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBC-9GPApg0txChE5gHHPG7oXmqVFlBD_4KjBdTZ681-GXg1Z9zKtNBkKywNJqAoKvZTGVcjYBq4HUAbZiz2spjv4CpdetANvveVCXcKs8RcIW4AIqoShDvvKq1BVsCf5oO1sJ0V0jv7w/s200/34+Synagogue.jpg" width="138" /></a>The other main sight in
Tomar is the oldest preserved synagogue in Portugal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is an aesthetically pleasing square room
with four pillars in the center supporting Gothic arches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pillars are said to represent the 4
matriarchs of Judaism, Sarah, Rebecca, Leah, and Rachel, which is something
that I had never heard before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
museum included displays explaining Judaism, and a number of old gravestones
from around the country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The volunteer
who showed us around was very enthusiastic, but also wished that much more
archeology and preservation work could get done.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For instance, in an adjoining room there is
evidence of the mikvah, which needs more excavation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We enjoyed talking with him about the
similar, less well preserved synagogue in St. Eustatius. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On April 22 we returned to
Lisbon by train with enough time to enjoy relaxing at the Praça Commercio and
eating a delicious vegetarian dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On
April 23 we flew out to new adventures in Holland.</span><br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBC-9GPApg0txChE5gHHPG7oXmqVFlBD_4KjBdTZ681-GXg1Z9zKtNBkKywNJqAoKvZTGVcjYBq4HUAbZiz2spjv4CpdetANvveVCXcKs8RcIW4AIqoShDvvKq1BVsCf5oO1sJ0V0jv7w/s1600/34+Synagogue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-15297240009042739422013-04-27T04:07:00.002-07:002013-04-27T10:58:42.248-07:00Outside Lisbon - Leiria<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTRfxPjtIxhV8Jxn5abKV6SoCbS5WDWv3EqLxRxpa89iw7gXcIyAvLIWn6jmINtdKfFTmCX8mJZW2DiMJNVIb17lInODsWqdzWKZE1vAYIL9R9EIFS11MQRPRN5820-2lSsTfaE6k2QpA/s1600/41+River+Lis+2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTRfxPjtIxhV8Jxn5abKV6SoCbS5WDWv3EqLxRxpa89iw7gXcIyAvLIWn6jmINtdKfFTmCX8mJZW2DiMJNVIb17lInODsWqdzWKZE1vAYIL9R9EIFS11MQRPRN5820-2lSsTfaE6k2QpA/s200/41+River+Lis+2.jpg" width="144" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leiria - River Lis and castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On April 13 we took the
train north from Lisbon to the town of Leiria, where we stayed four days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The river Lis runs through the town and our
hotel was on the bank of the river with a great view of the town’s landmark
castle on the hill above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The town has
created a nice park and walkway along the river on both sides, which was very
pleasant to stroll along.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also
a large park where the main road crosses the river, and then a smaller
pedestrian square with lots of restaurants and cafes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much of the town under the castle's bluff is quite
old with narrow streets, but there were also wider thoroughfares and modern
stores.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And of course, a large modern
town (about 50,000) spreads out from the medieval core, which we only saw entering
and leaving.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B9Iz3FcswJ6rsCYuRi3mmWlRxHEC4szWxFbxDYtv3_WKli9k0b01Uk08M8fH07zDKG7bqrELYrGiijokfk7l_UnBlOmHoq9R7T4YzPdGt6RASrpP9eNW5HmRRgJeCcbFF1YHbRbK6y8/s1600/41+Alex+at+Castelo+Leiria.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1B9Iz3FcswJ6rsCYuRi3mmWlRxHEC4szWxFbxDYtv3_WKli9k0b01Uk08M8fH07zDKG7bqrELYrGiijokfk7l_UnBlOmHoq9R7T4YzPdGt6RASrpP9eNW5HmRRgJeCcbFF1YHbRbK6y8/s200/41+Alex+at+Castelo+Leiria.jpg" width="143" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle porch</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">With help from the
guidebook, we found a contemporary restaurant which had a choice of 4
vegetarian entrees, so we ate there twice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I have also found that most Portuguese restaurants have one or more
vegetable soups that make a pretty good meal. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We walked up to the castle
which is now a partially reconstructed ruin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was a Moorish stronghold (and perhaps Roman before that) until
reconquered in 1135 by Afonso Henriques, who became the first Christian King
of Portugal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walls and the castle
keep date from around this time or the next century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the late 15<sup>th</sup> century King João
I built a small palace within the walls and restored the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIlSPlUYwFKoCfWyps4ZrJf3BkQNngUbZfF71p75uSumdTBFHniUoz1HK_0pUZF-AOFmQC3EjoGPzFcvwFiOggYB5SWNzFtSTNrnV1JGHhe2bvyAU-2nAo5XiicSSjaOpjSJq9YKfhN0/s1600/41+Castle+ruins.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIlSPlUYwFKoCfWyps4ZrJf3BkQNngUbZfF71p75uSumdTBFHniUoz1HK_0pUZF-AOFmQC3EjoGPzFcvwFiOggYB5SWNzFtSTNrnV1JGHhe2bvyAU-2nAo5XiicSSjaOpjSJq9YKfhN0/s200/41+Castle+ruins.jpg" width="148" /></a> </span>The palace has a wonderful porch gallery
overlooking the city, and a couple of other restored rooms of comfortable
proportion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The church is an elegant
ruin, and the keep and battlements at the top of the hill are impressive. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">At dinner that evening, on
one of the squares, we got to observe one of those quaint native festivals you
read about.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was a parade to
drum up support for the local soccer team playing that evening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First honking cars drove around and then
people marched through the various squares wearing their soccer scarves, drinking,
waving banners, singing songs, and blowing horns and whistles. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3pPHYN0bl5k0F5GenErIodwZ44f7xyVU9mWn_a1RyNnnraOxRI1blEtPu95TtZ1F7Rf2vkS00ezCymGlPkmi4mZFVwPDw-D_m9JwFu-oUN1Gjv3zRsjAulrBp-HzhjVT0ZO1EIIzQI4/s1600/41+Old+Leiria.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp3pPHYN0bl5k0F5GenErIodwZ44f7xyVU9mWn_a1RyNnnraOxRI1blEtPu95TtZ1F7Rf2vkS00ezCymGlPkmi4mZFVwPDw-D_m9JwFu-oUN1Gjv3zRsjAulrBp-HzhjVT0ZO1EIIzQI4/s200/41+Old+Leiria.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Leiria</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
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<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Leiria also has a recently
built Museum of the Moving Image.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had
everything from flip books and stereoscopes to early movie cameras, with a
number of good interactive models.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
most enjoyed a photo exhibit of old Leiria from the turn of the last century to
mid-20<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqSIFY-sN1mfdraFQKXfWWkFByTsgxer5k24uTlsGKGP6kUj7FcoeDzYnDp14ZKdATnfZOpFqCIhNL5z35h9f9-wOrQquzD4zlOV-IfhyphenhyphenNqrQhQ601cquaB64vrIY2sT-a_UxYQSXq3M/s1600/41+Stairway+to+Heaven.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPqSIFY-sN1mfdraFQKXfWWkFByTsgxer5k24uTlsGKGP6kUj7FcoeDzYnDp14ZKdATnfZOpFqCIhNL5z35h9f9-wOrQquzD4zlOV-IfhyphenhyphenNqrQhQ601cquaB64vrIY2sT-a_UxYQSXq3M/s200/41+Stairway+to+Heaven.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stairway to Church</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Another hill above the
river is dominated by a church, the Sanctuary of our Lady of the Conception,
with an impressive staircase leading straight up the hill, so we had the energy
to climb up there also and check out that view.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The church itself was not open. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1s7zwQpixSqJ4k1ypEEO6NjIc0VzosNSg104YnaFiG6h-aB-LC6shfJgwcdS6rdCBhOVQ51M-MvbZC_qN9-ci9ORbkwIG2tfXApRw4Co1XlxvVX6xXBrpZGH5DMS8F92DirRS0BQBqO4/s1600/42+Batalha+Monastery+2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1s7zwQpixSqJ4k1ypEEO6NjIc0VzosNSg104YnaFiG6h-aB-LC6shfJgwcdS6rdCBhOVQ51M-MvbZC_qN9-ci9ORbkwIG2tfXApRw4Co1XlxvVX6xXBrpZGH5DMS8F92DirRS0BQBqO4/s200/42+Batalha+Monastery+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Batalha Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Leiria was our base for
day trips to two World Heritage Sites.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first was to Batalha
Monastery, built to thank the Virgin Mary for her help in bringing victory at
the nearby battle of Aljubarrota in 1385.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The church started off as classic Gothic with English Perpendicular
influences, but later Manueline decorations were added to doors and
cloisters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUOzEUNBcrF7n8EJ6tup58bJQW6a2GH0x8spo6rkTnZ7L6XqFi9l6LaDHapAQB1Thi_ub8pUw3ecuTnHwpvxjJFluLMvMnlwZky2WENKmtzCA7ntxOT3IbzyunMctKMwJ7Ft_7Z8jKj8M/s1600/42+Batalha+Church.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUOzEUNBcrF7n8EJ6tup58bJQW6a2GH0x8spo6rkTnZ7L6XqFi9l6LaDHapAQB1Thi_ub8pUw3ecuTnHwpvxjJFluLMvMnlwZky2WENKmtzCA7ntxOT3IbzyunMctKMwJ7Ft_7Z8jKj8M/s200/42+Batalha+Church.jpg" width="147" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church nave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was good to see it right
after being at the Jerónimos cloisters in Belem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mix of styles was quite enjoyable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a Founders Chapel with tombs of many
kings, starting with Joao I and his wife Philippa of Lancaster from the early
15<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have a
joint tomb and their effigies are holding hands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is a very nice cloister.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Originally plain Gothic, typically elaborate decorative Manueline stone
tracery was added to the arches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
fact, this is the first building in which this work appears, and the architect
then went on to build the Jeronimos Monastery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit8W6UxvB6Tc9wPUWqMrfqbMxBoJ1BmLkSkqJTru2-NRFGfjaZtdkVQtwlB7gsnyIiyUug4c2FsAte2UajXZmel9SJMOsXWqmXlEucB8-KZj4PSy-VL3MdTIakWIqsnABnjz_82Ib7rrA/s1600/42+Batalha+cloisters.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit8W6UxvB6Tc9wPUWqMrfqbMxBoJ1BmLkSkqJTru2-NRFGfjaZtdkVQtwlB7gsnyIiyUug4c2FsAte2UajXZmel9SJMOsXWqmXlEucB8-KZj4PSy-VL3MdTIakWIqsnABnjz_82Ib7rrA/s200/42+Batalha+cloisters.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The decoration really takes off in the doorway carvings of what are
called the Imperfect (or Unfinished) Chapels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Some more kings are buried here in chapels around a central octagonal
courtyard, but they ran out of funds for completing the vault, so the courtyard
is open to the elements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>King Duarte and
Queen Eleanor of Aragon have a joint tomb there where they are also depicted
holding hands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Duarte (Edward in
English) was the son of Joao and Philippa mentioned earlier.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaakpr7VZslbq7vt52ilK5mlciwWpnFHNNZHsfLLcqwxc_PBMaaCFJf3CBac9N8C2nXmJWoscSP51YxQl-R36R9GoxLJkFbUN_8xOQTC3I34VgiOnYZXu3WwGBzcKCO2G1lW2oZr-UFE/s1600/42+Batalha+detail+1.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikaakpr7VZslbq7vt52ilK5mlciwWpnFHNNZHsfLLcqwxc_PBMaaCFJf3CBac9N8C2nXmJWoscSP51YxQl-R36R9GoxLJkFbUN_8xOQTC3I34VgiOnYZXu3WwGBzcKCO2G1lW2oZr-UFE/s200/42+Batalha+detail+1.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy4cSukdyWAII6W9AS8hAKzREjijiXBdwxkYGmmvY0ovwREJsQ1DbnSE5lIsZazx31NIYhXPTq2-T52tYH8PkMJ9E1PvILwXvnlrzPL8ZjRv4dqgTaJlBb6kLJmT9y3gETJ39ecbN76a8/s1600/42+Unfinished+chapel.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy4cSukdyWAII6W9AS8hAKzREjijiXBdwxkYGmmvY0ovwREJsQ1DbnSE5lIsZazx31NIYhXPTq2-T52tYH8PkMJ9E1PvILwXvnlrzPL8ZjRv4dqgTaJlBb6kLJmT9y3gETJ39ecbN76a8/s200/42+Unfinished+chapel.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unfinished Chapel</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbYwKtkjQvl56ZH5UiGuMDX4sAbaLdS4OV9qskYNnCC8lUq7gLczO4keyZWxWw5-vdWsaFAsxpzzfKx7oWiw2DeAaRMs0RFzwgQgj8myCp6mbShTRiaI9tu-j3n-AmFQxTCecV-YVjAo/s1600/42+King+Duarte+and+Queen+Lenora.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbYwKtkjQvl56ZH5UiGuMDX4sAbaLdS4OV9qskYNnCC8lUq7gLczO4keyZWxWw5-vdWsaFAsxpzzfKx7oWiw2DeAaRMs0RFzwgQgj8myCp6mbShTRiaI9tu-j3n-AmFQxTCecV-YVjAo/s200/42+King+Duarte+and+Queen+Lenora.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;">King Duarte and
Queen Eleanor</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_WwnZFEwCcJgSUIcsetTkjsdDTu7QwAAzf4jiJvWhjkXgO5zoGjC3I3aEhGrsuQlKTtU1nVPs6G6sTuRpjkVHE_fjZBwIPalBisgA712z2uu7gWrztgVyYHq5RIPSfxwwmHuy1e0kpzo/s1600/42+King+Joao+and+Queen+Filipa.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_WwnZFEwCcJgSUIcsetTkjsdDTu7QwAAzf4jiJvWhjkXgO5zoGjC3I3aEhGrsuQlKTtU1nVPs6G6sTuRpjkVHE_fjZBwIPalBisgA712z2uu7gWrztgVyYHq5RIPSfxwwmHuy1e0kpzo/s200/42+King+Joao+and+Queen+Filipa.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King Joao and Queen Philippa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfME7UJ9jFGHcVmX3aApKC6JntWCK1BS27LEkG6r5avR5W9YU7YoomjMc3xtj-aBeqaA-FrTIA28PE1Q6a-B47bFz7KaV2NHdywlCUCZk-oOSQ8ew6TrQoYdHy4ogawPosIFBKv75qMvA/s1600/43+Alcobaca+church+and+monastery.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfME7UJ9jFGHcVmX3aApKC6JntWCK1BS27LEkG6r5avR5W9YU7YoomjMc3xtj-aBeqaA-FrTIA28PE1Q6a-B47bFz7KaV2NHdywlCUCZk-oOSQ8ew6TrQoYdHy4ogawPosIFBKv75qMvA/s200/43+Alcobaca+church+and+monastery.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alcobaca Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> The second day trip was to
the Alcobaça Monastery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN98wWPRGLgiPcDLHS0s8CAfP27q15heSNKzdNo50I6A8L6xpiQj3DMtiKTffgI8atrqj3z6u_R9wTbuCpD4DfFiV1RwovJWtSC5y6KFCBEAEE8XVnCIH0hCVhcyBD2ixwse8XAcrCnbU/s1600/43+Alcobaca+church.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN98wWPRGLgiPcDLHS0s8CAfP27q15heSNKzdNo50I6A8L6xpiQj3DMtiKTffgI8atrqj3z6u_R9wTbuCpD4DfFiV1RwovJWtSC5y6KFCBEAEE8XVnCIH0hCVhcyBD2ixwse8XAcrCnbU/s200/43+Alcobaca+church.jpg" width="126" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alcobaca Church nave</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the
name sounds Moorish, it is because it is built where the Alco and Baça rivers
meet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is another huge tall Gothic
church, but it is older than Batalha, built starting 1178.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The big draw for this church are the tombs of
King Pedro I and his love Inȇs de Castro, a lady-in-waiting to his wife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the wife died, he lived in secret with
Inȇs, and they had several children.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Later he claimed that they were secretly married.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCjOvC78q7TLSKYSmazyopP-cEQ9ssG42svG2hqctzbvCNP93ZE33IHxS9uxxmibG5Y2Bj489stFEKQpKsK1-bdYI9snrNNEdrgIL0klxkqUvWJYlXeDJf9K_c7xQrk_Fq9TFEh0LmJE/s1600/43+Pedro+tomb.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVCjOvC78q7TLSKYSmazyopP-cEQ9ssG42svG2hqctzbvCNP93ZE33IHxS9uxxmibG5Y2Bj489stFEKQpKsK1-bdYI9snrNNEdrgIL0klxkqUvWJYlXeDJf9K_c7xQrk_Fq9TFEh0LmJE/s200/43+Pedro+tomb.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King Pedro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Pedro’s father Af</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">onso IV ordered </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Inȇs</span> assassination
because he feared the influence of her Spanish family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later, when Pedro became King, he declared Inȇs
to be his Queen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tombs are placed in
the two transepts of the church, so that when they raise up on the Day of
Judgment, the first thing they see will be each other.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mvaO1bAMTsDfX9Z_dlQ6Vhk_2iA-aypbe5mg6wtrpeTejU1WD2DGCmGnJIQHsH3GdnqYTo3v-jbUbrxTzEauG2kCWrOH5pY-h4Gbyf9NlVJaX_e8A2odujYuZP_WVC03iOkaFSw5ri8/s1600/43+Ines+tomb.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mvaO1bAMTsDfX9Z_dlQ6Vhk_2iA-aypbe5mg6wtrpeTejU1WD2DGCmGnJIQHsH3GdnqYTo3v-jbUbrxTzEauG2kCWrOH5pY-h4Gbyf9NlVJaX_e8A2odujYuZP_WVC03iOkaFSw5ri8/s200/43+Ines+tomb.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ines de Castro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their statues on their tombs depict
themselves supported by angels ready to assist them to sit up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It led me to wonder how their actual bodies
are going to be able to move the heavy stone lids aside on that Day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess angels will help with that too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tombs have wonderfully elaborate
bas-relief carvings on all sides.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIC1t6GL0x5ND0IhrHTq6g25ZCrjUv9Hu7-756M2NcGjncKu7VdOhdRUXsrVqlaFbjwUVt6Kt5yeeAdFVaubFcp1EKoFOjwsy9U_hhDTPFiG-bEb5wkq_Di7RJb3F6UFU-SETB0MHGEqs/s1600/43+Pedro+tomb+detail.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIC1t6GL0x5ND0IhrHTq6g25ZCrjUv9Hu7-756M2NcGjncKu7VdOhdRUXsrVqlaFbjwUVt6Kt5yeeAdFVaubFcp1EKoFOjwsy9U_hhDTPFiG-bEb5wkq_Di7RJb3F6UFU-SETB0MHGEqs/s200/43+Pedro+tomb+detail.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail Pedro's tomb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWoCtgz712DooCKgjrxjKFj3obxUFwkLCiLlaE7GW87ONHQJbO89Mlhzx4myYC-0zWKJpFymDArCfmRyj_ApiHFzS_CXBDVEoqPAI81vDLJDr2niOk9y3QWK4g3qSheiwOSHMn1Ft_Nk/s1600/43+Ines+tomb+detail.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWoCtgz712DooCKgjrxjKFj3obxUFwkLCiLlaE7GW87ONHQJbO89Mlhzx4myYC-0zWKJpFymDArCfmRyj_ApiHFzS_CXBDVEoqPAI81vDLJDr2niOk9y3QWK4g3qSheiwOSHMn1Ft_Nk/s200/43+Ines+tomb+detail.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail Ines 's tomb</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirCIiwoR9tuuQ_p71BiEw-9rZqCICZvbLP-PMbuIMhhl76KQ1ZOpLQt-rOX-SsoERNYivkN9HAbx53WJnraHjA4lSbVBjoNDxvI8tkZHhiHGtX1gKWkYxpq7VkIClMx8slnTgVapwTHVg/s1600/43+Kings+Hall.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirCIiwoR9tuuQ_p71BiEw-9rZqCICZvbLP-PMbuIMhhl76KQ1ZOpLQt-rOX-SsoERNYivkN9HAbx53WJnraHjA4lSbVBjoNDxvI8tkZHhiHGtX1gKWkYxpq7VkIClMx8slnTgVapwTHVg/s200/43+Kings+Hall.jpg" width="129" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hall of Kings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Adjoining the church is
the Kings Hall with ceramic statues of Portuguese kings on pedestals above tile
work depicting the founding of the Monastery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Apparently the monks here were renowned for their ability to make life
size statues out of clay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the
monastic rooms are well preserved and full of Gothic arches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiikEYyqG5NwmkLoFkxvLPm_-Q_LQHA_EPXzvnN74jZD29vogXiUTCbCOtxR1MEZLhP_bVj1bcRZdAQrvI87mY1gjLTpliO_WxTDBFQQWfMUp0naeQggoiOGdlZ4dFV1OOcHw4R85PuV1s/s1600/43+Kitchen.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiikEYyqG5NwmkLoFkxvLPm_-Q_LQHA_EPXzvnN74jZD29vogXiUTCbCOtxR1MEZLhP_bVj1bcRZdAQrvI87mY1gjLTpliO_WxTDBFQQWfMUp0naeQggoiOGdlZ4dFV1OOcHw4R85PuV1s/s200/43+Kitchen.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitchen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The kitchen is entirely lined with tile,
including the ceiling, and has another one of those huge chimneys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Water from the rivers were diverted into the
kitchen (and other parts) for cooking and cleaning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was even a large basin to capture any
fish that might flow through.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
refectory had a special narrow side door that was sometimes used to test monks
thought to be becoming too corpulent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO22CT-DjA1siod7Ap6CErRpqJMJWGBKKHywePMGvOkLL3DkafIj0YYlm8UF_h6fxk8XBTx9yvjtXmJpzTSdxW7BwA-972EkzckbDTh5UQIolXz6deakZV4PZth9R69Xjya0buTcH_zfE/s1600/43+Weight+watchers+door.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO22CT-DjA1siod7Ap6CErRpqJMJWGBKKHywePMGvOkLL3DkafIj0YYlm8UF_h6fxk8XBTx9yvjtXmJpzTSdxW7BwA-972EkzckbDTh5UQIolXz6deakZV4PZth9R69Xjya0buTcH_zfE/s200/43+Weight+watchers+door.jpg" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dining room door</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If
they couldn’t pass through the door, they couldn’t have supper! </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOKwW6L9SoxPVGXtIHaJuQt5sz49IevEA_FMR04F5QOyHbuNexQDRSOvzMvG8aT98C-QF7rPtER4OCWP6IFp0V3bZv4htimCXsO63cYJ_wJFszd9vy_dlTnL0DJvcqoXXkuv3KA1oumI/s1600/43+Alcobaca+cloister.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOKwW6L9SoxPVGXtIHaJuQt5sz49IevEA_FMR04F5QOyHbuNexQDRSOvzMvG8aT98C-QF7rPtER4OCWP6IFp0V3bZv4htimCXsO63cYJ_wJFszd9vy_dlTnL0DJvcqoXXkuv3KA1oumI/s200/43+Alcobaca+cloister.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUa-Tb1WAg9NSCoD3Vjv_-mCSf108OSONO0mH7UoH6h3JYyJ_lr6AMBN5VxEtKLtnHgKcs3arv5iH5I3POUyQU_Q-iXJ8Y_yoDs584aXKN_N7ZJzNNg9FmW_Qs679RQZh6gN763xBANgw/s1600/43+Alcobaca+detail.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUa-Tb1WAg9NSCoD3Vjv_-mCSf108OSONO0mH7UoH6h3JYyJ_lr6AMBN5VxEtKLtnHgKcs3arv5iH5I3POUyQU_Q-iXJ8Y_yoDs584aXKN_N7ZJzNNg9FmW_Qs679RQZh6gN763xBANgw/s200/43+Alcobaca+detail.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">I will post soon about the last two towns in Portugal!</span></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-19146364800638960022013-04-20T13:41:00.000-07:002013-04-27T04:18:54.978-07:00Lisbon week 4<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_wDzTXzGzjlcfEcTEmJXPPLDgtCHBvqAOa3eSZ0z3MBBM9_0hIw9YclumUwcMul0Pky4YCRTX7K0VMqobjZlDTWMRb6y7umJfxCxSEApvmxP0HpZHCFTIkK10c4xFqutejt-lFirpuo/s1600/31+Orient+Museum+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_wDzTXzGzjlcfEcTEmJXPPLDgtCHBvqAOa3eSZ0z3MBBM9_0hIw9YclumUwcMul0Pky4YCRTX7K0VMqobjZlDTWMRb6y7umJfxCxSEApvmxP0HpZHCFTIkK10c4xFqutejt-lFirpuo/s200/31+Orient+Museum+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museo do Oriente</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We finally have hit a
patch of sunny weather.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I really can’t
complain, considering what a late spring most people are getting, but it is
nice when the sun shines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of the
nice weather, we finally took a ferry ride to the south side of the river, the
town of Cacilhas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There we discovered a
re-created sailing frigate which was built around 1840 and used into the 20<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was an enjoyable tour below
decks, even if there were lots of cannon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We also enjoyed a pleasant “tea” in a sunny nearby square with many
stalls selling various items. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwrV-tqtJCU_KhIQ6p9nppY95fp4qVrHXWYAHQds0WGbRF81nvPOtM3Tly9g376dkaq6otYD0q2pDUwvoe7Sy7LOK5-ke-saVch4LPPsHfp8wCcPYKn849XNQZpmDDcN1hLm1HydSj6MI/s1600/31+Orient+Museum+3.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwrV-tqtJCU_KhIQ6p9nppY95fp4qVrHXWYAHQds0WGbRF81nvPOtM3Tly9g376dkaq6otYD0q2pDUwvoe7Sy7LOK5-ke-saVch4LPPsHfp8wCcPYKn849XNQZpmDDcN1hLm1HydSj6MI/s200/31+Orient+Museum+3.jpg" width="136" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maoist Happy New Year</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The City Museum alerted us
to the fact that there is an old Roman theater here, which we found more or
less across the street from the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Like most of the archaeology here, the site is a mish mash of buildings
both pre- and post-earthquake, but they have been able to clear things out down
to some of the seating, orchestra and proscenium.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is quite high up the hillside and would
have had a spectacular backdrop of the Tagus River. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Our museum viewing
continues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Chiado Museum downtown
highlights art from 1800 to 1975.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its
opening greeting to visitors is a complaint about lack of space and that they
can only show a small portion of their collection at any one time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, I think that means they may rotate
exhibits frequently, which could have the benefit of bringing people back to
see what is new.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The paintings go from
quite classical representational art to modern non-representational.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the 20<sup>th</sup> century, they also
frequently get more political – republican, anti-fascist, etc.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDpM2hHmY3t2h3VNGcjhZFHFrtIitL3GFWVDUY-oWY4Syq5UUnwD8hTbIMnG3JeCUXnDBZrQCdmtfH7cWNqpgMOE40II45BCUe9PjtQgYqiVgWPds9s3mPtlPrYzzv8fXfp8cpdrr37I/s1600/33+Puppet+Museum.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpDpM2hHmY3t2h3VNGcjhZFHFrtIitL3GFWVDUY-oWY4Syq5UUnwD8hTbIMnG3JeCUXnDBZrQCdmtfH7cWNqpgMOE40II45BCUe9PjtQgYqiVgWPds9s3mPtlPrYzzv8fXfp8cpdrr37I/s200/33+Puppet+Museum.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easter Parade at Puppet Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Within walking distance of
our apartment is the Orient Museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
looks at both the cross-cultural dissemination of art between Portugal, India,
China and other parts of the East, and the classic and folk art of those areas
before contact.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It included displays
from places like East Timor and Korea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One of the temporary exhibits was Maoist propaganda posters, including
some of the Maoist movements in Europe/Portugal. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG2wnsG0FWSzcn0VnpUy7JrXQvjAq_KpKV3n7L5ParWQHFbvVHZjG2jnhgSIiENaAqIuhuyCZHvWLtwpMXd_w4TWS-1upCQsfitKUDV5kcL92clon8hqkNRMUBLCDeZ85xQGmaEZV2V3c/s1600/34+Pineiro+Museum.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG2wnsG0FWSzcn0VnpUy7JrXQvjAq_KpKV3n7L5ParWQHFbvVHZjG2jnhgSIiENaAqIuhuyCZHvWLtwpMXd_w4TWS-1upCQsfitKUDV5kcL92clon8hqkNRMUBLCDeZ85xQGmaEZV2V3c/s200/34+Pineiro+Museum.jpg" width="116" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bordalo Pineiro Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We are definitely starting
in on some of the more obscure sights, which is the advantage of being here a
month.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went to the Marionette Museum,
which is also fairly close by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has
puppets and masks from around the world, but particularly highlights Portuguese
Puppet Theater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 19<sup>th</sup> and
early 20<sup>th</sup> century had quite a tradition of traveling puppet
theaters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A unique part of the tradition
was that the puppeteers would place reeds in their throats to make a distinctive
puppet voice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exhibit included some
modern semi-life size puppets, and there was a temporary exhibit about a
Claymation TV show.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a very
interesting small museum. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Another small, interesting
museum was devoted to Fado music and singers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The beginnings in the 19<sup>th</sup> century are still obscure, at
least to me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> Fado</span> seems to come somewhat
from sailors nostalgic for home, and also has some Brazilian roots.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had audio phones to guide us through the
exhibit, and they were actually pretty helpful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One could also dial up songs to listen to, which is of course what I
wanted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZY96JM8xLffGMXRu13Ywey_Dz3QdGbQKOzU0bR6ukBNvT16yYbpnmvcCB6ia57j7iG_7OJtcdNc0B5nTBexVtlEOyBdTHZbRdB_3voQt0n88lhv0LLfRGra40lQZFTiPt-S0Y1qT8yk0/s1600/34+Elevador+Santa+Justa.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZY96JM8xLffGMXRu13Ywey_Dz3QdGbQKOzU0bR6ukBNvT16yYbpnmvcCB6ia57j7iG_7OJtcdNc0B5nTBexVtlEOyBdTHZbRdB_3voQt0n88lhv0LLfRGra40lQZFTiPt-S0Y1qT8yk0/s200/34+Elevador+Santa+Justa.jpg" width="140" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Santa Justa Elevador</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We went to the church of
São Roque and the museum next door of religious art and artifacts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were reminded that the Church was far too
rich for far too long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And for a change
of pace, we went to the Museum of Rafael Bordalo Pineiro, a 19<sup>th</sup>
century ceramicist, artist/caricaturist and social commentator.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His ceramic pieces are huge and baroque and
quite amazing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His political cartoons
reminded us of Thomas Nast from approximately the same time period in New York. </span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQlwAZMhpbEeuITASyxi4dOM5HVYUsvUe75FUWZqS4t90iqeyRn8AN8CbgLMajcM0jNgT2sAZ0XuGsvKVE0CWmmEaUef_yHm4WODtMS9RaShuVZ1sik3ija_hFfcs_nwzuid3SHegmLo/s1600/34+Elevador+Santa+Justa+view.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFQlwAZMhpbEeuITASyxi4dOM5HVYUsvUe75FUWZqS4t90iqeyRn8AN8CbgLMajcM0jNgT2sAZ0XuGsvKVE0CWmmEaUef_yHm4WODtMS9RaShuVZ1sik3ija_hFfcs_nwzuid3SHegmLo/s200/34+Elevador+Santa+Justa+view.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Downtown from Santa Justa Elevador</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Because of all the hills
in Lisbon, there are about 6 funiculars (called elevadores) from down town, and
we finally this week rode two of them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One was like the little trams, except that, because of the slope, one
end is close to the ground and the other a meter or 2 above, so that the floor
of the tram is horizontal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As is
standard, I guess, one tram goes up while the other comes down, and they pass
in the middle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRMghNj0icazoGAJwgTGdwfgUgdKro5uu4FysNlKlPNMtC9jQVJNemreimO8RyIsR4ry5NkNQHyJ-xuj7q-UFOxZ7ujRSR6Q2vPds_ob6M6MNWUnYGm7tREVAqEg_uSkP8L9yHxaLwHg/s1600/32+Cascais+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRMghNj0icazoGAJwgTGdwfgUgdKro5uu4FysNlKlPNMtC9jQVJNemreimO8RyIsR4ry5NkNQHyJ-xuj7q-UFOxZ7ujRSR6Q2vPds_ob6M6MNWUnYGm7tREVAqEg_uSkP8L9yHxaLwHg/s200/32+Cascais+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cascais beach and terrace bar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other was an actual
elevator, designed by a student of Eiffel, and a classic 18<sup>th</sup>
century iron work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It seems to stand
isolated, but there is a long catwalk which takes you from the top of the
elevator across to the hilltop streets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are, of course, great views from both hills.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We took another train
excursion, this time to Cascais, a beach town to the west past the mouth of the
river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weather there was actually
milder and less windy than Lisbon, and it was a pleasant town to wander around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtt-k2oDGsx4_-oQKkrST9jVqy3J3fo6qCx9ZIysOIxxwCLdaGo3TUOYOaKuVECtgeamrx6BU0cAdYQNgzUAiWD5BO_d6sJnMLNutKDz5G6Lm3eEpuqdjQFhYp2cAxEkmaShNjXyzg10/s1600/32+Cascais+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtt-k2oDGsx4_-oQKkrST9jVqy3J3fo6qCx9ZIysOIxxwCLdaGo3TUOYOaKuVECtgeamrx6BU0cAdYQNgzUAiWD5BO_d6sJnMLNutKDz5G6Lm3eEpuqdjQFhYp2cAxEkmaShNjXyzg10/s200/32+Cascais+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cascais Mouths of Hell</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">It does not have a long stretch of beach,
just some sandy coves, and an extensive marina.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We walked along the coast to an area called As Bocas do Inferno, because
there are caves and arches in the cliff through which the waves can crash.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a fairly calm day, but we could still
get an idea of the effect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a
large stone citadel in the town still used by the military, which we walked
around, and a nice villa in the town park with azulejos and fountains. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbU7i9UC-f_3SVRXGJ5BNaD9J6_BMCTeVfpbhGpIqDDd0V9Wrnk_WcnbXGZ63z0Tzqm5LdwJQ4eOv_yzL7NcThFneEtRFEV_NHTqIrkR2XZgfnrWT00tmd3ma2B_i5lhIsfTQgWN_OBhk/s1600/35+Fronteira+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbU7i9UC-f_3SVRXGJ5BNaD9J6_BMCTeVfpbhGpIqDDd0V9Wrnk_WcnbXGZ63z0Tzqm5LdwJQ4eOv_yzL7NcThFneEtRFEV_NHTqIrkR2XZgfnrWT00tmd3ma2B_i5lhIsfTQgWN_OBhk/s200/35+Fronteira+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fronteira house and garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We took an expedition (bus
– metro – bus) out to a stately home of the Marques da Fronteira.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went in the afternoon, and it turned out
that there were only guided tours of the house in the morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, the gardens were still open, and
they are a fine sight also.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walls
inclosing the formal garden are all decorated with tile scenes depicting the twelve
months of the year, and the twelve astrological signs, and the leisure life of
the inhabitants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMYt7psSziEywLY-nmLI3xd-vM0UuKhzdKuh8FtJLhwzhg1_QKe3ntsbNxj7VF2sNFBATT1LlOlWlfdxcu60iT9qzW30rCAdQ01-Z8mBsv1LdblZpzzjAsayddp0Mq2HpKWT-OUCyTVM/s1600/35+Fronteira+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNMYt7psSziEywLY-nmLI3xd-vM0UuKhzdKuh8FtJLhwzhg1_QKe3ntsbNxj7VF2sNFBATT1LlOlWlfdxcu60iT9qzW30rCAdQ01-Z8mBsv1LdblZpzzjAsayddp0Mq2HpKWT-OUCyTVM/s200/35+Fronteira+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fronteira garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">There is a big pool
with a balcony done in azure tiles with niches for busts of all the kings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we had a pleasant hour wandering around.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2M2YiRu4VwRhJ3qNzd6fIQ-Z7kWLqs3reS7ZVwvTuS9ml2NZMqp_T2e6TgsuNXmxMBMeX1D36pimwmqBA228VcVN6qWObwYHhiiU8BShB4AA94-iJXFRPgCFBjQITQwMwZ0rFWiG0Bg/s1600/35+Fronteira+3.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl2M2YiRu4VwRhJ3qNzd6fIQ-Z7kWLqs3reS7ZVwvTuS9ml2NZMqp_T2e6TgsuNXmxMBMeX1D36pimwmqBA228VcVN6qWObwYHhiiU8BShB4AA94-iJXFRPgCFBjQITQwMwZ0rFWiG0Bg/s200/35+Fronteira+3.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fronteira garden tile</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally, on our last day
in Lisbon, we returned to Belém and the Jeronimos Monastery, this time to go into the cloisters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am glad we did because they are really
magnificently decorated in the Manueline style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Every column and arch is slightly different, at least on the ground
floor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are also side rooms – the
chapter house, refectory, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of
the rooms has been turned into a monument to the historian and writer Alexandre
Herculano (1810-1877), which I think is pretty nifty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was involved in an early (1830s) struggle
against an absolute monarchy, but also important in the creation of a modern
Portuguese identity. I can't believe we almost skipped this, because they building is really iconographic for Portugal. We took lots of pictures, so they are at the end of this post.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrArLnQOyA2GzscsMoOhcXlI1PPLEOBqSVNAuhQq3q1EX77XWbnrSjtDxYEu_brLPUUWlkxDGYfd1pbEoE8T4AsP6CP8coicDE72cBMVZYbDUiRtwUKI36v9IvlEjlKaush-oMk14-Noc/s1600/36+Palace.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrArLnQOyA2GzscsMoOhcXlI1PPLEOBqSVNAuhQq3q1EX77XWbnrSjtDxYEu_brLPUUWlkxDGYfd1pbEoE8T4AsP6CP8coicDE72cBMVZYbDUiRtwUKI36v9IvlEjlKaush-oMk14-Noc/s200/36+Palace.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Throne room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">After lunch, we completed
our palace tours by going to the royal palace at Ajuda, just a short bus ride
up from Belém.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was first occupied by
King Luis I in the second half of the 19<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The palaces we saw in Sintra were just summer
residences – this was the real thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There were ball rooms and waiting rooms and a throne room and then lots
of family rooms – blue, red, yellow, oriental – and bedrooms, all ornately
decorated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was huge and quite an
experience.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Now we are off for 10 days
north of Lisbon by train and bus to Leiria, Coimbra, and Tomar. </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mhg4K9Rhm-fQ3OmR1KExBoSCw6rkaNlyC7_O6XfBuDTTh0Xqkms2Mic9gcfUKTZ9RENExXM4mp4r0T2iZhH91X6J7dbhYBVayKQMQHsw-Zu8sLbXp7jtt6xh7wGsmF-RyEE3iwY7vw8/s1600/36+Cloisters+1.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mhg4K9Rhm-fQ3OmR1KExBoSCw6rkaNlyC7_O6XfBuDTTh0Xqkms2Mic9gcfUKTZ9RENExXM4mp4r0T2iZhH91X6J7dbhYBVayKQMQHsw-Zu8sLbXp7jtt6xh7wGsmF-RyEE3iwY7vw8/s200/36+Cloisters+1.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1G5ayokuqHuasvfNEExsxQe7ZxaOXVACj6qaFSYq1lk9BAUfh4ZP7AK_ZY4jGBMCmveifaj_1F5SzT2xKPfb2cbJAw_dEmm47NT92XevlaSA1Rmc1_2148cM9xiNXVERts6gHxyVNNo/s1600/36+Cloisters+2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1G5ayokuqHuasvfNEExsxQe7ZxaOXVACj6qaFSYq1lk9BAUfh4ZP7AK_ZY4jGBMCmveifaj_1F5SzT2xKPfb2cbJAw_dEmm47NT92XevlaSA1Rmc1_2148cM9xiNXVERts6gHxyVNNo/s200/36+Cloisters+2.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVwPkrcPmyFe6OjEP38C7smp3Y9A5BFmSbBKKI_yriROuR5sb64TMvNVytlABh0TP5okjFGYA6wH77t81dY1evqjXYX3n7qTN2T15ZOeHX0zYdIfIRIWh70aIPi4Pu9wnEcdMyq3tBWo/s1600/36+Cloisters+4.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVwPkrcPmyFe6OjEP38C7smp3Y9A5BFmSbBKKI_yriROuR5sb64TMvNVytlABh0TP5okjFGYA6wH77t81dY1evqjXYX3n7qTN2T15ZOeHX0zYdIfIRIWh70aIPi4Pu9wnEcdMyq3tBWo/s200/36+Cloisters+4.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1i3liAffMpz7QUBP3oyjItYq4s3c4RlR7Fw3T9bqOmRB4mpDJgTS4lBaSUMbnxxAHFUCAAcA3JRntMF6qaywMHmoafVdF42bCcM-ClEZjItuBwn8c0nyTs8m2xbPPKJgvBMvmHfZmAYE/s1600/36+Cloisters+3.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1i3liAffMpz7QUBP3oyjItYq4s3c4RlR7Fw3T9bqOmRB4mpDJgTS4lBaSUMbnxxAHFUCAAcA3JRntMF6qaywMHmoafVdF42bCcM-ClEZjItuBwn8c0nyTs8m2xbPPKJgvBMvmHfZmAYE/s200/36+Cloisters+3.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfprYp44DRD5jn2r5hfRo8xBEqhcYbOivW4gPbvx0r_fG93nXnQPCWoh0PMKlncWq2CL7F-E8t9rs6kGXRoAjLZ4nXl1LNfnly1rUo9HQ5j9EgpWSSY3_we5CgvZKPilX3GcQY7ShAmns/s1600/36+Cloisters+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfprYp44DRD5jn2r5hfRo8xBEqhcYbOivW4gPbvx0r_fG93nXnQPCWoh0PMKlncWq2CL7F-E8t9rs6kGXRoAjLZ4nXl1LNfnly1rUo9HQ5j9EgpWSSY3_we5CgvZKPilX3GcQY7ShAmns/s200/36+Cloisters+5.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> <span style="font-size: x-small;">Tomb of Alexandre
Herculano</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-41168215263298518222013-04-11T04:28:00.001-07:002013-04-27T04:20:18.160-07:00Lisbon weeks 2 & 3<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsBAHYkEUbrpunilYCBY_qvtye3gM_7li6KeVMPjcj2MZxdgJJScmAkLMJpGvdtbXKCC2kQGk7EwDZQcCLCCxd7_YpP4FcZZN1LPH4eSsVxcCZSqIsVG7E1hmLOL603rL-9cT2PbXnDE/s1600/21+Jeronimos+doorway+top.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsBAHYkEUbrpunilYCBY_qvtye3gM_7li6KeVMPjcj2MZxdgJJScmAkLMJpGvdtbXKCC2kQGk7EwDZQcCLCCxd7_YpP4FcZZN1LPH4eSsVxcCZSqIsVG7E1hmLOL603rL-9cT2PbXnDE/s200/21+Jeronimos+doorway+top.jpg" width="178" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h8VamoqSnIGMsHezOnLugC4YoAuty6LQZktxQGIP8tRNfnkDhpQlBMxhzZD-WHSQUNnq1siMnO-J9JnUyCNbG8qDrXzBcg9SMfkG59LJrKsFOrG0Q3bTskgEzrXDsKKQtcwrDnWKFbk/s1600/21+Jeronimos+doorway+bottom.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5h8VamoqSnIGMsHezOnLugC4YoAuty6LQZktxQGIP8tRNfnkDhpQlBMxhzZD-WHSQUNnq1siMnO-J9JnUyCNbG8qDrXzBcg9SMfkG59LJrKsFOrG0Q3bTskgEzrXDsKKQtcwrDnWKFbk/s200/21+Jeronimos+doorway+bottom.jpg" width="196" /></a>On Thursday the 28<sup>th</sup>
we returned to Belém to go to the Jerónimos Monastery, a huge complex built in
the early 16<sup>th</sup> century in the decorative Manueline style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The church has a beautiful stone carved
entrance and a high Gothic interior with graceful columns, some of which look
like palm trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On either side of the
entrance are tombs for Vasco da Gama and Luis de Camões, who wrote a classic
poem about the discoveries of da Gama.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
are also tombs of some of the Portuguese princes and princesses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A wing of the former monastery now houses an
Archeology Museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Regarding local digs,
there was a fairly interesting exhibit about a Roman pottery factory and its
kilns, and another about Roman and local religious cults as shown by various
statues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also had a very interesting
gold and silver treasury, and somewhat oddly, some Egyptians mummies and other
artifacts. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSAHuo4SDicS7DhDxk_PuTMQN4FRDSuLs1flZHGpEDaWayfc-tgxxtlPknGLysW3iWhinszC68t2Ldsiq3ur0wo94EO0O9cxOW3nkVwtZhgJAa5FdhZFIE9r79hHxbsWdhImU1C-XkRU/s1600/22+Vasco+da+Gama+tomb.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSAHuo4SDicS7DhDxk_PuTMQN4FRDSuLs1flZHGpEDaWayfc-tgxxtlPknGLysW3iWhinszC68t2Ldsiq3ur0wo94EO0O9cxOW3nkVwtZhgJAa5FdhZFIE9r79hHxbsWdhImU1C-XkRU/s200/22+Vasco+da+Gama+tomb.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomb of Vasco da Gama</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Just a block below our
apartment is a restaurant that also features Fado music, so we went there one
evening for dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We managed to get a
reasonably good vegetarian meal, although the bean dish turned out to have pork
“seasoning.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even starting dinner at 8
pm, we were among the earliest eaters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Most people showed up around 9, and the music started around 11. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-LqKe2fe0Ri05b6-I9WmD4ZipeV2l8BVVcS9H6SUCDXnzEAjHFZubvBm_HSa0ZxiczJFb1rKxQrCoh8YVDt6l9ujwUy-IPHfSUREv8L3Qo2hWolBhM7KxBEKguqVP8aVSyffQ9Ng9DU/s1600/Fado+Restaurant.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv-LqKe2fe0Ri05b6-I9WmD4ZipeV2l8BVVcS9H6SUCDXnzEAjHFZubvBm_HSa0ZxiczJFb1rKxQrCoh8YVDt6l9ujwUy-IPHfSUREv8L3Qo2hWolBhM7KxBEKguqVP8aVSyffQ9Ng9DU/s200/Fado+Restaurant.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa da Mariquinhas Fado restaurant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The restaurant seated about 20 people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think we were the only non-Portuguese
people there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There had been a German
couple, but they left before the music started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There was a rotating group of two men and one woman singer, plus two
guitar players, who were particularly good with very fast, intricate
picking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The singing was enjoyable, and
the crowd occasionally sang along.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They
also hushed up anyone who was still talking when the set started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stayed for 2 sets and left around 12:45!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDSA4C8X-4QzsY5TCSd6A_l3fLEqURf97-eTT4a0x7zlPTsROk82U3oADt3CmTFpL2RSSwh2xBI4swJ8OY_jECN0qHRZDFC6ZwouoaKOO3I1mj771P0W9wGtphAtRnQ0oRTR53XTLo-w/s1600/23+Book+Heaven.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsDSA4C8X-4QzsY5TCSd6A_l3fLEqURf97-eTT4a0x7zlPTsROk82U3oADt3CmTFpL2RSSwh2xBI4swJ8OY_jECN0qHRZDFC6ZwouoaKOO3I1mj771P0W9wGtphAtRnQ0oRTR53XTLo-w/s200/23+Book+Heaven.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eternity in the Lisbon Cathedral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We have now visited several
more churches around the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like
Spanish churches, there is not a lot of stained glass, but many of the churches
are decorated with tile with pictures of events in the lives of Jesus or
various saints.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some, like the
Cathedral, are rather austere, and others have quite ornate stone work and
altars.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both the Cathedral and São
Vicente Monastery have archeological digs going down to Islamic and Roman
times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd9kTX7x8kcBWEo-0IqvyK-IAsPRqej6CTRv4HUbCopvmUB9wuhc7H9vqkomdXnOQnqXDhWHueXBx8r0A6RnsEqQyjE7vdkZKq-VXi9QgnNK8GBK8HopqrK_AR5NBX0gSfaKqr1X-FZxM/s1600/23+Cloister+dig.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd9kTX7x8kcBWEo-0IqvyK-IAsPRqej6CTRv4HUbCopvmUB9wuhc7H9vqkomdXnOQnqXDhWHueXBx8r0A6RnsEqQyjE7vdkZKq-VXi9QgnNK8GBK8HopqrK_AR5NBX0gSfaKqr1X-FZxM/s200/23+Cloister+dig.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Archeology in Cathedral cloisters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The rooms at São Vicente also had
an extensive exhibit of tile pictures (called azulejos) based on the Fables of La
Fontaine, and an odd but appealing couple of rooms with a seashell exhibit from
around the world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They may have
particularly been representative of places where the Portuguese explored and
colonized, but since the explanations were only in Portuguese, it was hard to
tell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKtlq4QVF99xa_6Q2lzKZjQAzSXxaVcLQzB1Dh0PdnPXl3YnSfxebCYw_P8BCcOqsg3zP6N6vzrULmKizEOG52B0LrRsm9uHhkdUSr6VYLeIMZdU_aALaYdSh9NfLQnyRJVoqzMMHe68/s1600/23+Death+Visits+the+Dying+Man.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVKtlq4QVF99xa_6Q2lzKZjQAzSXxaVcLQzB1Dh0PdnPXl3YnSfxebCYw_P8BCcOqsg3zP6N6vzrULmKizEOG52B0LrRsm9uHhkdUSr6VYLeIMZdU_aALaYdSh9NfLQnyRJVoqzMMHe68/s200/23+Death+Visits+the+Dying+Man.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memento mori in church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">This church is also the resting
place for most of the Braganza dynasty of rulers, including the wife of Charles
II of England, and the last king and crown prince who were assassinated in 1908,
and the last king who succeeded them and fled to London in 1910.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also went to the National Pantheon nearby,
which has tombs and cenotaphs for national heroes of Portugal: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the fado singer Amalia Rodriguez,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>writers, and even some politicians from the
founding of the Republic.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DYeeflFRhw45NugECSw0-QjaJqhwaBA_xMIJZFeRZb9oqzsdKZ98TC5pJqSMGTvAJp0gttRGFysk9KV2H8eac39nsA_PGjaac5Q2iyoszkN-VFu52raRMXdqHrL5KB2J9QYKuikYcLQ/s1600/24+azulejo+1.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DYeeflFRhw45NugECSw0-QjaJqhwaBA_xMIJZFeRZb9oqzsdKZ98TC5pJqSMGTvAJp0gttRGFysk9KV2H8eac39nsA_PGjaac5Q2iyoszkN-VFu52raRMXdqHrL5KB2J9QYKuikYcLQ/s200/24+azulejo+1.jpg" width="140" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Speaking of azulejos,
there is an entire museum devoted to them in an old convent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dominant color scheme is blue on white, but sometimes other colors are used.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59yZOt66skz5WDhfYomxTiN98CxgTeDBRzYYIF7ddLCBq-MqWeLmPfZtBSd8h3OcRf7OqU1MbnDF98qgvhy2UaHhRtPrQcOqDPQrvcBzYK8a8SR14e0rI4LNrPalTdZcydFfIV7KoBvE/s1600/24+azulejo+servant.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>On
the outside of buildings the tiles are usually a repetitive geometric design,
but the interior is usually a mural.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They are sort of like tapestries, except with the purpose of feeling
cooler instead of warmer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most often
they </span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59yZOt66skz5WDhfYomxTiN98CxgTeDBRzYYIF7ddLCBq-MqWeLmPfZtBSd8h3OcRf7OqU1MbnDF98qgvhy2UaHhRtPrQcOqDPQrvcBzYK8a8SR14e0rI4LNrPalTdZcydFfIV7KoBvE/s1600/24+azulejo+servant.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59yZOt66skz5WDhfYomxTiN98CxgTeDBRzYYIF7ddLCBq-MqWeLmPfZtBSd8h3OcRf7OqU1MbnDF98qgvhy2UaHhRtPrQcOqDPQrvcBzYK8a8SR14e0rI4LNrPalTdZcydFfIV7KoBvE/s200/24+azulejo+servant.jpg" width="112" /></a></span>come up to 3-4 feet on the walls, like wainscoting.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh59yZOt66skz5WDhfYomxTiN98CxgTeDBRzYYIF7ddLCBq-MqWeLmPfZtBSd8h3OcRf7OqU1MbnDF98qgvhy2UaHhRtPrQcOqDPQrvcBzYK8a8SR14e0rI4LNrPalTdZcydFfIV7KoBvE/s1600/24+azulejo+servant.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some mansions would have cutout life size
tile servants on the walls to greet guests in the entry way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a museum, the exhibits got repetitive, but
I did also enjoy the examples of current tile work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> Another major work is a huge panorama of
Lisbon, 36 meters long, created in 1738, an important archive of what the city
looked like before the earthquake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
convent itself was very interesting with the chapel and chapter room, etc. kept
as they were - lots of dark wood and paintings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It also has a huge nativity scene in an alcove.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although centered on the manger, it is like a
comic book in which there are also scenes of the annunciation, King Herod, the
3 wise men traveling, and so on. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63W8DQCMQiXTdN1L2QHOqyJfDWZpkMMzIlcf42mFoN4HjKL0vPavzOGz89HGzIgKhh5KLUzswknY_6l81lvP_T_nGppf-dRhF2TYMs5SPjl1vcurqu0QO_orZrRxD0O1SboFA7xFS5Xo/s1600/24+Lisbon+panorama.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi63W8DQCMQiXTdN1L2QHOqyJfDWZpkMMzIlcf42mFoN4HjKL0vPavzOGz89HGzIgKhh5KLUzswknY_6l81lvP_T_nGppf-dRhF2TYMs5SPjl1vcurqu0QO_orZrRxD0O1SboFA7xFS5Xo/s200/24+Lisbon+panorama.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Lisbon center</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>We have
seen these in a number of places in Spain and Portugal, including the
cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are hard to photograph. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also went to the City
Museum in a former stately home - many more archeological pieces from
prehistory through the Romans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The rooms
of the house itself were also very interesting, with much azulejo decoration,
and many paintings showing the development of the city through the last several
centuries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The garden had a large flock
of peacocks, including one albino, all strutting their stuff to peahens who
seemed totally uninterested.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTXB98AQHEaQALzR_iWq3xxAsNbH03mDfG_yVtGmfzlhnNMmRL2lYk4kAf9_QGjDrOItTEa2c6nNkvePFr9k0eoDidf5mR6ykKqkvsezNVVbSBdoU95hC1FFwxT4e5vriLeFzrCFDiIE/s1600/24+White+Peacock.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSTXB98AQHEaQALzR_iWq3xxAsNbH03mDfG_yVtGmfzlhnNMmRL2lYk4kAf9_QGjDrOItTEa2c6nNkvePFr9k0eoDidf5mR6ykKqkvsezNVVbSBdoU95hC1FFwxT4e5vriLeFzrCFDiIE/s200/24+White+Peacock.jpg" width="200" /></a> </span>There were
adolescents without tail feathers practicing impressing pigeons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the gardens had a recently installed
set of ceramic sculptures – lobsters, crabs, frogs, huge wasps, etc. in various
configurations.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On two separate days we
have taken the train (about 45 minutes) to the nearby hill town of Sintra which
contains many summer palaces and fine mansions, and a very nice restaurant with
good vegetarian options. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_iUaxV3EpY9PNiYyeGwog_ddRZAOCjMnmIkv8ColmQYuiZFS4nqjJX2fioG_WPOVdCXkk7ZtbQmLWHQJt0zpDlWl2trjC9sjcJ1T0cSxmC4WtWCjhLkHDW5W6lAUogX5MXmouHR0tq6k/s1600/25+Sintra+Palace.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_iUaxV3EpY9PNiYyeGwog_ddRZAOCjMnmIkv8ColmQYuiZFS4nqjJX2fioG_WPOVdCXkk7ZtbQmLWHQJt0zpDlWl2trjC9sjcJ1T0cSxmC4WtWCjhLkHDW5W6lAUogX5MXmouHR0tq6k/s200/25+Sintra+Palace.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sintra Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The first day
we went to the National Palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tour
is well laid out, taking one through the various rooms, most of which seemed to
be on a comfortable and livable scale, although somewhat dark and cold at this
time of year - which is why it is a summer palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The palace was built in the 15<sup>th</sup>
century, but still used in the 19<sup>th</sup>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Of particular note is the kitchen – the two rooms are basically huge
chimneys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although there are ovens and
ranges, animals could also be roasted on spits over open fires in the center of
the rooms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the guide book
considered them unique, they reminded us of a similar set up in a ruined castle
in Scotland.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvNpRXqYAow562fEYHBhxD227gg0UZIanbYisM29ocGEqNsUWrhFgfeFoyq290TxX-ikN7PtwxAWBnvfVZV46HH8IFji6L4agqWLEnQX3STrhXRaKeYzqeFVTJ2tUMm9FPRs8o-tbu8LU/s1600/26+Castelo+Mouro+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvNpRXqYAow562fEYHBhxD227gg0UZIanbYisM29ocGEqNsUWrhFgfeFoyq290TxX-ikN7PtwxAWBnvfVZV46HH8IFji6L4agqWLEnQX3STrhXRaKeYzqeFVTJ2tUMm9FPRs8o-tbu8LU/s200/26+Castelo+Mouro+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moorish fort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We then took the hop on –
hop off bus to the Moorish Castle, which is really a stretch of battlements
along a ridge line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It does contain a
keep, but it was probably always more of a frontier fortress rather than a
castle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were great views west to
the ocean and north over the countryside, but it was cold and windy and lots of
climbing!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9liXpbG8b9THjZXEMSSnoTfqjcvEj1fFzy2hXIVeZ4y9F32tRqcWYGOocpjNVYL4EVWXnqzJPW8v9VSKPx5j-3aU9I3IKpkyk76C4m3f3CBBpDsT5HyM8swsmPxwjtdhyphenhyphenrIQLTh0j7Sw/s1600/26+Castelo+Mouro+3.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9liXpbG8b9THjZXEMSSnoTfqjcvEj1fFzy2hXIVeZ4y9F32tRqcWYGOocpjNVYL4EVWXnqzJPW8v9VSKPx5j-3aU9I3IKpkyk76C4m3f3CBBpDsT5HyM8swsmPxwjtdhyphenhyphenrIQLTh0j7Sw/s200/26+Castelo+Mouro+3.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moorish fort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The fortifications had been
reconstructed by some of the more recent kings as a kind of scenic folly for
their palace views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is now undergoing
more extensive and scientific restoration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We shall need to return in ten years. </span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhVlhny5YdMGfDYIA5cm4v8kDbNtlP1V93OX_4NJkXF2Wn6RRXKifwAl3xv2O8va6pT0Nyh07JlVJy1_1RYPjq7pxiv4JiyQQ8P_5ASlyp43PmBlldop70Vc3q_Ji2Jg5ij47c1cXMLk/s1600/26+Pena+Palace+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguhVlhny5YdMGfDYIA5cm4v8kDbNtlP1V93OX_4NJkXF2Wn6RRXKifwAl3xv2O8va6pT0Nyh07JlVJy1_1RYPjq7pxiv4JiyQQ8P_5ASlyp43PmBlldop70Vc3q_Ji2Jg5ij47c1cXMLk/s200/26+Pena+Palace+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pena Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On our return trip a few
days later, we started with the Palacio de Pena, built in the 1840s by a German
king-consort who was perhaps emulating King Ludwig of Bavaria.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First a convent was converted into a royal
residence around the cloister.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The King
had the first floor, the Queen the second, and the two princes above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lots of decorated ceilings, trompe-l’oiel
decorations, and pleasant living spaces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP64Ep8trBlaHDpzasgN8eGQkJpD7IvBecgOzRsoPxN_RyNs3wOKD3OcMmxIW6B4ZdnkJJ3ZvMd9r1rB_gthZmYV9QgWOVIt7-vzo45xDqrLUVU7xTRv8HHepd6AyRtMpmH2L3RESPRTM/s1600/26+Pena+Palace+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP64Ep8trBlaHDpzasgN8eGQkJpD7IvBecgOzRsoPxN_RyNs3wOKD3OcMmxIW6B4ZdnkJJ3ZvMd9r1rB_gthZmYV9QgWOVIt7-vzo45xDqrLUVU7xTRv8HHepd6AyRtMpmH2L3RESPRTM/s200/26+Pena+Palace+2.jpg" width="179" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pena gateway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is an amazing courtyard entrance gate carved with a sea god and
corals, leading to a courtyard and then an old-fashioned chapel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later a new wing was added with larger spaces
that the royal family was still using until the Republic was declared.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much of the information, posted in both
English and Portuguese, was about how in the 19<sup>th</sup> century the royals
started emulating the bourgeoisie, making their palaces more about living
spaces for the family rather than display places for royal power.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess this helped lead to republican
revolutions. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihafHq4W6Uu1rizrU9h8PveaJDSejUF_mEnWOJUX-RrGbbVQGSkE0dbI42KYD1Ke_tb8g-kdeb6qfxYRn4jx_dgG_Mf0P28HQzIywGLLxLrqUrUe-PhKGzqObaF8GfBD_4ZJmQ2TshIuU/s1600/27+Monserrate+1+with+Pohutukawa.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihafHq4W6Uu1rizrU9h8PveaJDSejUF_mEnWOJUX-RrGbbVQGSkE0dbI42KYD1Ke_tb8g-kdeb6qfxYRn4jx_dgG_Mf0P28HQzIywGLLxLrqUrUe-PhKGzqObaF8GfBD_4ZJmQ2TshIuU/s200/27+Monserrate+1+with+Pohutukawa.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monserrate with Pohutukawa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">After the Pena Palace, we
went to Monserrate, an English style mansion, whose famous residents included
William Beckford, the author of the 18<sup>th</sup> Century Gothic novel <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Vathek</i>, and Francis Cook, a textile magnate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has great gardens, including a huge
pohutukawa tree and fern trees from New Zealand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVnLhnI_MgtQFzB2UHYW-lXSXmXL1Ey8hA4QLK9JRWXVV0XJGX-2cDX306XFz-CPpVMQ3H_naTA3lyszHoyFQ0C7I3eX8CDafbzHr-s4QCgvsv3H3tXp18rwHveIhxsnaFXi_FeiltaY/s1600/27+Monserrate+corridor.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVnLhnI_MgtQFzB2UHYW-lXSXmXL1Ey8hA4QLK9JRWXVV0XJGX-2cDX306XFz-CPpVMQ3H_naTA3lyszHoyFQ0C7I3eX8CDafbzHr-s4QCgvsv3H3tXp18rwHveIhxsnaFXi_FeiltaY/s200/27+Monserrate+corridor.jpg" width="127" /></a> </span>The house is still going through major
renovation, but its main decorative elements are intricately carved Moorish
style stone lacework down the halls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
shall need to return in ten years. </span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DYeeflFRhw45NugECSw0-QjaJqhwaBA_xMIJZFeRZb9oqzsdKZ98TC5pJqSMGTvAJp0gttRGFysk9KV2H8eac39nsA_PGjaac5Q2iyoszkN-VFu52raRMXdqHrL5KB2J9QYKuikYcLQ/s1600/24+azulejo+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-75775082624911889082013-03-29T10:15:00.001-07:002013-03-29T10:15:01.297-07:00Lisbon week 1<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We are in the ground floor<br />left apartment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We have been in Lisbon for
a week now. We have a tiny apartment on
the ground floor of a small 4 story building in an area called Alcantara. We have a view of the big bridge across the
Tagus River, and there are lots of buses and trams nearby to take us anywhere
we want to go. Downtown there is also a
subway system. We can buy our groceries
at various fruterias and mini-mercados, and there is a Nepalese and a Mexican
restaurant in the neighborhood. We have
also discovered that there are a number of vegetarian restaurants scattered
around the city, and one Irish pub that we like. It is still the rainy season here, which
means that it has usually been cloudy, and often drizzles or rains. However, it is warmer than Maryland and it hasn't </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">rained so hard as to keep us indoors when we want to go out. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Our view from a nearby park<br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">Lisbon’s most distinctive
features are cobblestoned streets and sidewalks. The sidewalks are made of whitish stones
about 2 inches square and the darkish street stones are about 4 inches. In many of the main plazas, the stones are
set in wavy designs of white and black.
Unfortunately, in the outlying districts many sidewalks are in bad
repair. Another distinct feature is that
many building facades are made of tile, which makes a pretty effect. The other buildings are often painted pink,
orange, yellow, or blue, and most have red tile roofs. There are lots of hills, and the river is a
dominating presence. The people are
friendly and a surprising number know English, or else Spanish or French. Much of the town was destroyed by a
combination of earthquake, tsunami, and fire in 1755, and then rebuilt in an 18</span><sup>th</sup><span style="font-size: 14pt;">
century style. A lot of what we have
done so far seems like getting oriented and learning our way around by foot and
public transport. It is always fun to
just wander around a new city.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Carmo Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The Archaeological Carmo
Museum is a Carmelite Church which was destroyed in the earthquake. The nave, transept and aisles have been left
roofless, and it is quite impressive and beautiful in its way. The museum part is in the back, where the
altar and sacristy were not destroyed.
It is small and not very memorable.
Although occupation goes back to the Phoenicians and even early stone
age tools, they have not actually come up with a lot of archeological
remains. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We have visited two art
museums so far: the Museu de Arte Antiga, which is within walking distance (about
a kilometer from home) and the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian. The Ancient Art Museum is housed in a former
palace and actually contains art through the 19<sup>th</sup> century. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Bosch - Temptations of St. Anthony</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The highlight for us was a Bosch painting of
the Temptations of St. Anthony, who is one of Lisbon's patron saints. There
were also two Japanese screens depicting the landing of the Portuguese in Japan
that were very interesting. There were
lots of ceramics and church silver. The
Gulbenkian Museum houses the collection of a wealthy European oil magnate who
settled in Lisbon after Paris fell to the Nazis. It has a nicely laid out display which goes
from ancient Egypt through the Middle East, with rugs, mosque lamps and
ceramics, to the Far East with lacquer boxes, screens and more ceramics. The European collection included a Rembrandt,
Turner, Cassatt, a number of Impressionists, and a lot of interesting
tapestries, furniture, and ivory miniatures.
It ends with a room for the Art Nouveau jewelry and glass of Rene
Lalique. It was all varied enough that I
did not get burned out looking at one type of thing too much. It was, however, another place where I was
really fascinated by the picture frames, even though you get NO information
about them. Even the rooms of furniture,
where they are telling you about the clocks and stuff, they ignore the frames,
which are really splendid pieces of workmanship.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Almost like a museum is a
place called The Story of Lisbon. It is
down on a major square of the city called the Praça do Commercio which is right
on the riverfront. This is where the king
and his son were assasinated in 1908, which led to the founding of the Republic in
1910, and also where the 1974 Carnation Revolution started that turned Portugal
back to a democracy after the death of Salazar.
The Story of Lisbon is one of those places where you move around with an
audio tape through rooms with video or other displays. So we saw and heard about the Phoenicians and
the Romans, the Age of Discovery, the earthquake, and the rebuilding of the
city.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgabteiJL8F142A6oAz1QjpiNACeeEUzWs40_70ZSwBQ_aiXCcD3nhjpEivQjTQ-bZavQ6k0p5YGGn4HjmmTc6at9uU1C1w_u4LjLYvKIC-qyILt5hC2FLl3zOEesD7PTaz90f6EXkKV94/s1600/8+view+of+castle+and+Lisbon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgabteiJL8F142A6oAz1QjpiNACeeEUzWs40_70ZSwBQ_aiXCcD3nhjpEivQjTQ-bZavQ6k0p5YGGn4HjmmTc6at9uU1C1w_u4LjLYvKIC-qyILt5hC2FLl3zOEesD7PTaz90f6EXkKV94/s400/8+view+of+castle+and+Lisbon.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View of Castle and Lisbon from Church of Santa Gracia</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;">On one of the hills
overlooking the city there is the medieval Castle of Sao Jorge. (St. George because the queen was English.) There have been fortifications there since
the Iron Age, and the Moors built the first castle. When they were driven out, the new Portuguese
kings expanded the castle, but it was mostly abandoned after the
earthquake. However, the area around the
castle was not much damaged then, so it is a maze of narrow picturesque streets
and old churches. We had great views of
the city from the castle walls. We have
been into 2 churches so far. They are
less massive and fortress like than those in Spain, but still fairly dark with
few windows but usually ornate chapels and altars.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhTpXtHv25plMAuSohMt9o9awVMgCDknbvVsPWvI1nyfLAngKKlj534KslLDcuZr0HVUsXREirz7wd6B40wA86MygVT40PzlVo0gluqbbACTQCClNoqPpjdMJl5HVsI7HGSJzmOD-tRg/s1600/4+Dicoverers+Monument.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPhTpXtHv25plMAuSohMt9o9awVMgCDknbvVsPWvI1nyfLAngKKlj534KslLDcuZr0HVUsXREirz7wd6B40wA86MygVT40PzlVo0gluqbbACTQCClNoqPpjdMJl5HVsI7HGSJzmOD-tRg/s200/4+Dicoverers+Monument.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Discoverers Monument</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Detail of Discoverers</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We took one day so far to
go west a few kilometers to the area of Belem, which has many monuments. We walked along the riverfront to the
Discoverers Monument, which is a large ship like sculpture with 33 figures led
by Henry the Navigator and including Vasco da Gama. The monument was built in 1960 in honor of
the 500<sup>th</sup> anniversary of Henry’s death. The only woman in the group is Henry’s mother
Philippa of Lancaster. A little further
down the river walk is the Tower of Belem, built in the early part of the 16<sup>th</sup>
century to guard the approach to Lisbon’s harbor. It is built in the Manueline style (named
after the king), which is very ornate.
King Manuel was able to take all the wealth coming in from Portugual’s
new empire to start a big building campaign.
There is a 2 story bastion for the cannons, dungeons and storage
underneath, and a smaller 4 story tower rising above, which provides good views
of the river mouth. There is also a
large monastery in Belem, but we will visit it another day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2tGu5GSbWYpa91nTEgrUMQpQv5QQkSYfaHPeyanDzC27j4-_PyLvw7e3qYDooBiXtPDZUFVvSRTP9tzuyWuOMzK1JQccJqXWPf8wh8dIetbE70eSSMvi6rptM3tk8htiyeCz0rubVkvo/s1600/6+Belem+Tower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2tGu5GSbWYpa91nTEgrUMQpQv5QQkSYfaHPeyanDzC27j4-_PyLvw7e3qYDooBiXtPDZUFVvSRTP9tzuyWuOMzK1JQccJqXWPf8wh8dIetbE70eSSMvi6rptM3tk8htiyeCz0rubVkvo/s200/6+Belem+Tower.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Tower of Belem</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Detail of Tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">For Ron’s birthday, we
went to see the movie <u>Night Train to Lisbon</u>, in English with Portuguese
subtitles, which I think has not been released in the States yet. It stars Jeremy Irons as a Swiss professor
who comes to Lisbon in search of information about an obscure Portuguese author
whose one book he has gotten immersed in.
Most of the movie is about the author and his activities during his
youth in the Salazar era of the early Seventies. The professor looks up many of the author’s
friends who have survived to the present, and gets them talking about the past,
which has been wrapped up in a code of silence.
We enjoyed the movie for this glimpse of Lisbon’s recent history, and
for the Lisbon landscape. Ron has
started reading the book, which he finds is very different from the movie!</span></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-11973357977399388952012-12-26T08:58:00.004-08:002012-12-27T05:54:01.834-08:00Granada and Madrid<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02ao1Ym-vNF9epFArvG8m3ZIi8FsVJrQn_AnunQ9ydpUGS9a_iXan-7WOh5ch7Vj-ct3e_o6PVNxyFDD45Y0uj8TGJUWLIj1EHwY_CT5BOuWAL2Gvl71OZgiOfbtsmQvUKy52x4IYBGw/s1600/01+Alcazaba+in+Alhambra.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj02ao1Ym-vNF9epFArvG8m3ZIi8FsVJrQn_AnunQ9ydpUGS9a_iXan-7WOh5ch7Vj-ct3e_o6PVNxyFDD45Y0uj8TGJUWLIj1EHwY_CT5BOuWAL2Gvl71OZgiOfbtsmQvUKy52x4IYBGw/s200/01+Alcazaba+in+Alhambra.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alcazaba/Citadel of Alhambra</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We left Sanlucar on
December 5 by bus to Jerez where we caught the train to Granada, passing
through lots of hills with olive trees as far as the eye could see.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our hotel was in an old section below the
Alhambra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About one quarter of the
population of Granada are university students, so we were finally in a Spanish
town with vegetarian restaurants, or veg dishes in Indian or regular
restaurants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vDhALYXf8P8ho9FXI3cbFs5JIOUzZrjWVErvqodNTULBSgHAqWevEgx4jv05qpO2n1FGATOX_5ALrMHbDPvjPkoDS4sk5wtuDD-dKSxjRAqsUJkh-FIokBehBPI0JVYI06hy6RQUw0Y/s1600/02+King+Carlos+Palace+in+Alhambra.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vDhALYXf8P8ho9FXI3cbFs5JIOUzZrjWVErvqodNTULBSgHAqWevEgx4jv05qpO2n1FGATOX_5ALrMHbDPvjPkoDS4sk5wtuDD-dKSxjRAqsUJkh-FIokBehBPI0JVYI06hy6RQUw0Y/s200/02+King+Carlos+Palace+in+Alhambra.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard of King Carlos' Palace</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Alhambra is on the prow
of a steep hill overlooking the city, and it was easy to walk around town below
it, or to walk up the hill, though we also took buses and cabs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also a large modern city that
stretches out from the hills, which was decorated for Christmas and had lots of
shoppers and bustle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is in a large
valley with dramatic tall snow-covered mountains to the west. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTk3KlipEP-ML3b12vFf4W7T-ETj4MloChK7hM_vhIYZqPi5uCac3I1vaRxSREbMNi4D91uldDRJuGeA4nRFE81TJ336jC9NFIwHvUxBuhaOHSKuIrZ_RDQmuYKdES31HwlXic34LXOE/s1600/03+Ceiling_in_Alhambra.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGTk3KlipEP-ML3b12vFf4W7T-ETj4MloChK7hM_vhIYZqPi5uCac3I1vaRxSREbMNi4D91uldDRJuGeA4nRFE81TJ336jC9NFIwHvUxBuhaOHSKuIrZ_RDQmuYKdES31HwlXic34LXOE/s200/03+Ceiling_in_Alhambra.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceiling design</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPl-N-Mxou5RywFndgxQDIILz53C4QMkyjflBGeljI6_Wmwhr1NMVt2-_6w4KqxBhjvm5WImg-TZ3eNdkhKrX3t2FWYXV5XDEqbsGGuoPWaY-EBHrzQ79Nj1Z7Kjzs2SmrskVmN05uPg/s1600/04+Alhambra+pool.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">With only three days, our
focus was on the Alhambra, where we spent most of two days.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a pretty walk up through a park to get
there, but there were also frequent buses and cheap taxis, so we only walked up
and down once.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a very large walled
area which might have had a population of 20,000 at one time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The crest of the hill is where the Alcazaba,
or fortress is, which is probably the oldest section.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdYcW3kbbOCmugEdppTEJlJWhZnlJ9s48Fz-yzbkRWaskKRfpSBvDg3XIQzwBhrERRQNvU9dm4r-VDJ8oLya_OW7z4J-ekbIwz2H72oJ_mb1BIpIgi5YHLT77NlnuQcepKAVjM63scWU/s1600/03+Ventanas_con_arabescos_en_la_Alhambra.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></span>Then there is a large courtyard/garden area,
and then a massive square palace built by King Carlos V, a Hapsburg King, Holy
Roman Emperor, and grandson of Queen Isabella.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdYcW3kbbOCmugEdppTEJlJWhZnlJ9s48Fz-yzbkRWaskKRfpSBvDg3XIQzwBhrERRQNvU9dm4r-VDJ8oLya_OW7z4J-ekbIwz2H72oJ_mb1BIpIgi5YHLT77NlnuQcepKAVjM63scWU/s1600/03+Ventanas_con_arabescos_en_la_Alhambra.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZdYcW3kbbOCmugEdppTEJlJWhZnlJ9s48Fz-yzbkRWaskKRfpSBvDg3XIQzwBhrERRQNvU9dm4r-VDJ8oLya_OW7z4J-ekbIwz2H72oJ_mb1BIpIgi5YHLT77NlnuQcepKAVjM63scWU/s200/03+Ventanas_con_arabescos_en_la_Alhambra.JPG" width="150" /></a></span></span>
</span>It has a large round central courtyard and now houses the Alhambra
Museum and the Fine Arts Museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Somewhat past and below that palace is the complex of Moorish palaces
which are the famous part of the Alhambra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They are truly marvelous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
outside is just square and blockish, but the inside is wonderfully ornate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Particularly amazing are the ceiling domes
which in many areas are made up of stalactite-type hanging inverted
pyramids.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPl-N-Mxou5RywFndgxQDIILz53C4QMkyjflBGeljI6_Wmwhr1NMVt2-_6w4KqxBhjvm5WImg-TZ3eNdkhKrX3t2FWYXV5XDEqbsGGuoPWaY-EBHrzQ79Nj1Z7Kjzs2SmrskVmN05uPg/s1600/04+Alhambra+pool.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPl-N-Mxou5RywFndgxQDIILz53C4QMkyjflBGeljI6_Wmwhr1NMVt2-_6w4KqxBhjvm5WImg-TZ3eNdkhKrX3t2FWYXV5XDEqbsGGuoPWaY-EBHrzQ79Nj1Z7Kjzs2SmrskVmN05uPg/s200/04+Alhambra+pool.jpg" width="200" /></a></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I suspect that they used to be
brightly painted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then there are the
wonderful arches, windows, courtyards and gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The palace entry is by timed ticket, and
there is always quite a crowd around, so one cannot wander at leisure or
return, which is too bad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, the
rest of the grounds are not as restricted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We did come back over two days in order to see it all.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSuaNcuDjL5PksNJstadOzifaIIAhip2hfYiIAWD8LmJmyjgkcpVUhNS0yNhkyLFRLKUViK3RLKV3lHHJuCZYa_S-P3vqkeE9r7iJjE02Q7JmAGZe7fbBuKqRaRg1ArcUX1DgPsZDSfs/s1600/04+Lion+fountain.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCSuaNcuDjL5PksNJstadOzifaIIAhip2hfYiIAWD8LmJmyjgkcpVUhNS0yNhkyLFRLKUViK3RLKV3lHHJuCZYa_S-P3vqkeE9r7iJjE02Q7JmAGZe7fbBuKqRaRg1ArcUX1DgPsZDSfs/s200/04+Lion+fountain.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lion fountain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All the second day we concentrated on the
Generalife (Jennat al Arif or Garden of the Architect) Palace, which is a
summer pavilion even higher up on the hill, very open and with even more
gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both museums within the grounds
were also interesting and pleasant to visit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Washington Irving is remembered at the Alhambra because he wrote a
popular book in 1832 called <u>Tales of the Alhambra</u>, which I thoroughly
enjoyed reading.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He actually stayed
within the palace for over a year.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExCELxVnb8fb826Ahctz0wwOkVb3RnAxwxa1ZU6EEj3b7hD8_6-7hQkAsUnRrBtx2_FUiC3670wuNSk9jO_HwxUXe3dzZUq91EfwWmCF-rWo-9k4Koo4Q6ztwb7mMobol0kWwDJPOELc/s1600/06+Alhambra+from+the+Generalife.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhExCELxVnb8fb826Ahctz0wwOkVb3RnAxwxa1ZU6EEj3b7hD8_6-7hQkAsUnRrBtx2_FUiC3670wuNSk9jO_HwxUXe3dzZUq91EfwWmCF-rWo-9k4Koo4Q6ztwb7mMobol0kWwDJPOELc/s200/06+Alhambra+from+the+Generalife.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alhambra from Generalife</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHpuesy4f_qZjqWALhRqiALSNYEWZMDYk8mVP3XE0JO4wLTJ56vzJStiTButLfsht1C65zRv9RGENGAyk1xoX1Un07Cl7mSWrGJFCRNlQW3ntJgZ_Z5cZ5r5iCanaWCfIDIAPKlzOEUiw/s1600/05+Alhambra.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHpuesy4f_qZjqWALhRqiALSNYEWZMDYk8mVP3XE0JO4wLTJ56vzJStiTButLfsht1C65zRv9RGENGAyk1xoX1Un07Cl7mSWrGJFCRNlQW3ntJgZ_Z5cZ5r5iCanaWCfIDIAPKlzOEUiw/s200/05+Alhambra.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYt09WUtTj20wmyQBjcFaWsjh90bHYNFnmkSHd4e2mxhlXmS-_C_LbTH-LNiu1xTVD8ekNaygwmSgnaAcvMCBPV0AlA5jZVZqN5RfVF7pBmNY5vqGbFqA0hLNDbzq0q_n5uCCVYrRzI4Q/s1600/07+Genrealife+from+the+Alhambra.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYt09WUtTj20wmyQBjcFaWsjh90bHYNFnmkSHd4e2mxhlXmS-_C_LbTH-LNiu1xTVD8ekNaygwmSgnaAcvMCBPV0AlA5jZVZqN5RfVF7pBmNY5vqGbFqA0hLNDbzq0q_n5uCCVYrRzI4Q/s200/07+Genrealife+from+the+Alhambra.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Generalife Palace from Alhambra</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzp2OlKHaRIF7bdOKfBPvbkDFWEMcyM8DuF_is9X9CFIlmGoGMQZ3D4icG-Nh8GwpeJJT237aeJsLNF_3gqcyk4Vdjap7aAnJujsZdJeLdH26EKB8VxOF2SWkoL4kR2eTi3NVv1JAwGWo/s1600/08+Inner+gardens+of+Generalife.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzp2OlKHaRIF7bdOKfBPvbkDFWEMcyM8DuF_is9X9CFIlmGoGMQZ3D4icG-Nh8GwpeJJT237aeJsLNF_3gqcyk4Vdjap7aAnJujsZdJeLdH26EKB8VxOF2SWkoL4kR2eTi3NVv1JAwGWo/s200/08+Inner+gardens+of+Generalife.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inner gardens of Generalife</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCKTrOtF_YxVcqmJMuSXft2QRgI4RTrNazPI90Vu5eQUJ7oMMyShn3ObmW_fIUDeRMygOYvcbn96eq3sY3G2Zfy0oZofDbuV7bJC3gjltwqmuzt9_-jy4Ee3gDX6e07LIOXF05-O6ni0/s1600/09+Alex+and+Washington+Irving.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmCKTrOtF_YxVcqmJMuSXft2QRgI4RTrNazPI90Vu5eQUJ7oMMyShn3ObmW_fIUDeRMygOYvcbn96eq3sY3G2Zfy0oZofDbuV7bJC3gjltwqmuzt9_-jy4Ee3gDX6e07LIOXF05-O6ni0/s200/09+Alex+and+Washington+Irving.jpg" width="153" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Washington Irving</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWnjyhUo0hXWZ9XzQuTrerjtf743uOZBBJHhvDTIKZZ8CzstlKL2TZeP0ukaQzTaZ8-D__UQAVnRidJFbObaqdDWU0pq9GvcDJoU_nRB460HdnyzjQSzFHsr8xAOOolItyUGo3oFWWxs/s1600/10+Irving%27s+courtyard.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWnjyhUo0hXWZ9XzQuTrerjtf743uOZBBJHhvDTIKZZ8CzstlKL2TZeP0ukaQzTaZ8-D__UQAVnRidJFbObaqdDWU0pq9GvcDJoU_nRB460HdnyzjQSzFHsr8xAOOolItyUGo3oFWWxs/s200/10+Irving%27s+courtyard.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard where Irving stayed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> In addition, we also took
a hop-on-hop-off bus tour around Granada, which let us see much more of the
city then we would have otherwise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our only
stop, besides the Alhambra, was the house that the author Garcia Lorca grew up
in, which used to be a farm on the outskirts of town and is now in the city,
with much of the farm converted to a city park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Typically the house was closed because it was a holiday, Assumption Day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also went to an Arabian bathhouse to warm
up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The pools were not as hot as we are
used to, but we got very nice half hour massages.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the only time I have been in a space
with a lot of Spaniards where it was actually quiet.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHouEBVWVMNfzgKaEmGalaDMYJaQinAOYZkiWbhPy3dIte5qSszq4iGOEmRD-nG6BbK-Yki-7AFlIEtpneMDMAy820_I0goLrDD5H5cd7qYStO8oguT9Sm84H4CVaISQoWW8jDfkgpOI/s1600/12+Granada+street.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivHouEBVWVMNfzgKaEmGalaDMYJaQinAOYZkiWbhPy3dIte5qSszq4iGOEmRD-nG6BbK-Yki-7AFlIEtpneMDMAy820_I0goLrDD5H5cd7qYStO8oguT9Sm84H4CVaISQoWW8jDfkgpOI/s200/12+Granada+street.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Christmas lights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We visited the Cathedral –very large- and the
attached royal chapel with the tomb of their Catholic Majesties Ferdinand and
Isabella, which has a very striking altar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They chose to be buried in Granada because they felt the Reconquista was
their greatest achievement. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>We also had
fun walking around the Albaicin along the river Darro, which is one of the old
quarters and has lots of bars and restaurants and live music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did actually hear some flamenco guitar and
singing in one restaurant near the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We also listened to an English folk singer outside a cafe one
afternoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That was a Saturday, and
there were lots of buskers out, and it was sunny and mild and a perfect
leisurely afternoon.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7x_PQ4-E4fz23pQDa730NVkweLO1OGm4BMV3_ckljWigyhVzlPYZu_HBiAFumrI-32AhzDCj18ylp2-qQa9fTOWWg8VRPVy0O8TJ5Z26DEoXsGueQgZoDKfYdiK0p7jHuu1IpW3C4iZI/s1600/15+Virgin+on+the+moon.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7x_PQ4-E4fz23pQDa730NVkweLO1OGm4BMV3_ckljWigyhVzlPYZu_HBiAFumrI-32AhzDCj18ylp2-qQa9fTOWWg8VRPVy0O8TJ5Z26DEoXsGueQgZoDKfYdiK0p7jHuu1IpW3C4iZI/s200/15+Virgin+on+the+moon.jpg" width="138" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Virgin looking like Ishtar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb3yRkUIFA9R9lk5KrjqQJOEzImKPBt-dENfp-O9FIuehfeCJnpeoYn8g_alKH7Y2j7lweDId2ZYjO-TU_ON7PmqXzFy9gemeegufDzM9PG-sVNjWDn6iPlopGnSoasET7dpnS0pDnDUo/s1600/11+Garcia+Lorca%27s+house.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb3yRkUIFA9R9lk5KrjqQJOEzImKPBt-dENfp-O9FIuehfeCJnpeoYn8g_alKH7Y2j7lweDId2ZYjO-TU_ON7PmqXzFy9gemeegufDzM9PG-sVNjWDn6iPlopGnSoasET7dpnS0pDnDUo/s200/11+Garcia+Lorca%27s+house.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garcia Lorca house</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6I7ghOG4dNkq5_4aC3Mau3XhDZ4cVxaIK2ss69mHzMHd-R96cTnlEyYOGPaG62ZxvVFdfhoEC0422QTo1by92VcD1g7TvFpwriRtKklybVu0ZeaT72DDS28Pm3odt1304K4Bj0rb8Lg/s1600/14+Virgen+de+Granada+Fra+Angelico.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ6I7ghOG4dNkq5_4aC3Mau3XhDZ4cVxaIK2ss69mHzMHd-R96cTnlEyYOGPaG62ZxvVFdfhoEC0422QTo1by92VcD1g7TvFpwriRtKklybVu0ZeaT72DDS28Pm3odt1304K4Bj0rb8Lg/s200/14+Virgen+de+Granada+Fra+Angelico.jpg" width="128" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Virgin of Granada</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxsQPcK4xMAG-ptGtfIQyyqfyIYrS8wfVVTwLz-VmD-sgSRZXSLnC9Y7HUY6fhkQ5n9f_l-G4jL2K3ZoJSjAsyfPidlY68GXQIXFiDYdInLU1yZTuL-iPxIDhrTsKGIkXhoSLeq9wZSXo/s1600/01+Cervantes+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxsQPcK4xMAG-ptGtfIQyyqfyIYrS8wfVVTwLz-VmD-sgSRZXSLnC9Y7HUY6fhkQ5n9f_l-G4jL2K3ZoJSjAsyfPidlY68GXQIXFiDYdInLU1yZTuL-iPxIDhrTsKGIkXhoSLeq9wZSXo/s200/01+Cervantes+1.jpg" width="151" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cervantes lived near our hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Sunday morning we left
early by train to Madrid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We arrived
early enough that we were able to settle into our Pension on Calle Cervantes. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3a4OE-Z1OVtDdcgIx92puNgNuojeqYGx-29ShE2GIlgDaW6zVUsLmSJfDIDS2cHSJIffDoJZfT1Kz9ekq72Ky5LmqMinROOjVb0ctIjsOcffi3HP-1Nif-bYJfwST8I-OJm4LOb0PLTk/s1600/02Bosch+1.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3a4OE-Z1OVtDdcgIx92puNgNuojeqYGx-29ShE2GIlgDaW6zVUsLmSJfDIDS2cHSJIffDoJZfT1Kz9ekq72Ky5LmqMinROOjVb0ctIjsOcffi3HP-1Nif-bYJfwST8I-OJm4LOb0PLTk/s200/02Bosch+1.jpg" width="114" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detail from Garden of Earthy Delights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We could walk a few blocks to spend the afternoon in the Prado, admiring among
other works the Garden of Earthly Delights by Bosch, the whole range of
paintings by Goya from his royal portraits through to his late dark paintings,
many paintings by Velazquez, not enough by El Greco, lots of Rubens and Titian,
a special exhibit of the young Van Dyke of works painted from age 16, when he
was still an apprentice to Rubens, to age 22 when he left Antwerp for Italy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXonBnsl1A6ZgtR_zp8BQhGUUtGHcihOR9co__7kL8c_Cm0Mt8-4aIffsqS5i9TOSbXSQWdf_z5ybFnF9L-rwenKv3lrX4hhOQJYuyhWLCf4boGJfC31dfLLLisT36PNyziXCc-DFW99A/s1600/03+Palacio+de+Cibeles.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXonBnsl1A6ZgtR_zp8BQhGUUtGHcihOR9co__7kL8c_Cm0Mt8-4aIffsqS5i9TOSbXSQWdf_z5ybFnF9L-rwenKv3lrX4hhOQJYuyhWLCf4boGJfC31dfLLLisT36PNyziXCc-DFW99A/s200/03+Palacio+de+Cibeles.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palacio de Cibeles</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The Prado is a wonderful art museum, and we
returned for another half day. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also
took another hop-on-hop-off bus tour to see all the monuments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did the whole circuit and only when we got
off did we really realize how cold we had gotten!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had two and a half days in Madrid, so we
were also able to go to the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, a smaller art gallery
more or less across from the Prado.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
had a special exhibit on Gauguin and the voyage to the Exotic, so it also had
works by other painters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvEb-X7hGDh0ERY_O13qaeOro52hZtP0_nuCY8Bssms26JcH1FqmMzi1L2syjajiNpDeHN18xjJ_z-82nvNICelaBtgl_Srf_TfoTZF5CnsN3oqqJI3lo3JpOnPKjSZfNspFSqTl_r2NY/s1600/04+Puerta+del+Sol+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvEb-X7hGDh0ERY_O13qaeOro52hZtP0_nuCY8Bssms26JcH1FqmMzi1L2syjajiNpDeHN18xjJ_z-82nvNICelaBtgl_Srf_TfoTZF5CnsN3oqqJI3lo3JpOnPKjSZfNspFSqTl_r2NY/s200/04+Puerta+del+Sol+2.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaza Puerta del Sol</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The rest of the
museum is almost a survey of art through 40 small rooms of works from the
Renaissance through the modern era.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the
Palacio de Cibeles nearby there was a special exhibit, rarely seen, from the
collections of the Dukes and Duchesses of Alba which was really interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It included a Fra Angelico of the Virgin of
Granada (which also means pomegranate), a Goya portrait of the first Duchess of
Alba (a special friend of his, assumed to also be the model for his Naked Maja
in the Prado), handwritten letters by Christopher Columbus, a Chagall, plus
some royal clothing and furniture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
motley collection!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At some point the
dukedom passed to an illegitimate son of King James II of the UK, James
Fitz-James, first Duke of Berwick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Wikipedia tells me that the current Duchess has more recognized titles
than any other aristocrat currently living.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2SbPyV2Ome7TZXIk6fvr3dja1y-oa4y2TlPal4nFyLGVByOLzyFPx4ebSV7t4MtS8KH2UlgvPu8uDBJGh-Bbqe9dXvRvy2KdLx46xoNqAb3lL2Uw__H7Cpa4OSg2vgHR9fUTLcL9pEU/s1600/05+Plaza+Major.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2SbPyV2Ome7TZXIk6fvr3dja1y-oa4y2TlPal4nFyLGVByOLzyFPx4ebSV7t4MtS8KH2UlgvPu8uDBJGh-Bbqe9dXvRvy2KdLx46xoNqAb3lL2Uw__H7Cpa4OSg2vgHR9fUTLcL9pEU/s200/05+Plaza+Major.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaza Mayor Christmas Market</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Madrid was also great for
the variety of vegetarian restaurants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We were able to walk to 3 from our hotel, plus a veg friendly Mexican
restaurant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had fun walking around
and down to the Puerta del Sol and the Plaza Mayor, which was set up with a
nice Christmas market.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So far Madrid is
my second favorite European capital after Vienna.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On 12/12/12 we flew back
home on Aer Lingus from Madrid to Dublin to Boston to Reagan National in
DC.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A long day but uneventful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have been able to settle back into being
home easily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hope to start traveling
again in late January, probably around the South or the Caribbean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>See you then.</span></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-90273264244174894742012-12-08T10:23:00.000-08:002012-12-08T10:23:10.320-08:00theme song<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel Switzerland (Suecia) Granada</td></tr>
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I almost
wrote this entry a month ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It appears
that this trip has a theme song – not one we chose, but one that keeps coming
up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the song is …</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Hotel
California!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We first
heard this back in Chicago while we were walking around the city when we had a
4 hour break before picking up the Amtrak train to Oregon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a live band playing in an office
building courtyard while the management was handing out free lunches to their
tenants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We particularly noticed the
song during their set because there was a group of young women dancing and
singing along and taking photos of themselves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Next we heard it in a hippy-ish vegetarian restaurant in Reykjavik,
Iceland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also played songs like
Sitting on the Dock of the Bay and Dylan’s Let’s Go Get Stoned. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In North Berwick, Scotland, we heard it at the
pub we frequented called The Ship Inn, but even then it didn’t seem too odd.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We started
to really notice the song when we left Great Britain, where at least you would
expect to hear English language music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It turns out that the vast majority of piped-in music in Europe seems to
be American.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In Vienna, we heard it in a
Chinese restaurant that was near our apartment and very veg friendly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We heard it on a bus going into Nimes in
southern France, and in a taxi in Avila, Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That was when I thought about writing this post, but I procrastinated,
and the moment passed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">There was a
long gap, but finally today in Granada (a Saturday) as we were walking in the “gypsy”
quarter and listening to lots of different buskers on street corners, one of
them sang Hotel California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I gave him a
Euro and told him we had heard it from Chicago and through Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think he was a little disappointed that it
was such a common cover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>BTW, he sounded
Spanish, although he could speak and understand my English.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">In a few
days, we hope to see the Bosch “Garden of Earthly Delights” at the Prado in
Madrid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we return home and are done
with hotels for a while.</span></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-45420974378902043182012-12-06T10:04:00.001-08:002012-12-06T10:33:01.922-08:00Sanlucar part 2<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioX4pibZkUudpA2td87ArznVJUuD_UjGJWPtMleJTmDw0OkSdIO66tmzsOnjAt9c0Du1y3GwVdx2Ehj19s4Gs5FPV1AQkAhBqdwcxBWGPLcKQ5Y3-784D5BtP6ABd_fuRnVRFEukeiPIs/s1600/01+25,000+bc+Venus.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioX4pibZkUudpA2td87ArznVJUuD_UjGJWPtMleJTmDw0OkSdIO66tmzsOnjAt9c0Du1y3GwVdx2Ehj19s4Gs5FPV1AQkAhBqdwcxBWGPLcKQ5Y3-784D5BtP6ABd_fuRnVRFEukeiPIs/s200/01+25,000+bc+Venus.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">25,000 year old Venus</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">One of the
more out of the way spots we discovered in Sanlύcar was the Casa Mitologico in
an old church converted into La Victoria Cultural Center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is actually on a square fairly close to
the downtown area but not prominently marked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We were the only visitors the day we went, and they had to turn on the
lights and the projectors for us, but it was a really interesting exhibit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the 3 rooms, there was one devoted to the
myth of the Tartessians, whom stories recount as having lived beyond the Pillars
of Hercules.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is still not clear
whether there ever was a real Tartessian civilization.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is some archeological record, but no
actual cities have been found.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
certainly clear that the Phoenicians were trading out to this distant area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyPJ40jveTDQz862BYjFm4YgT8x3URdEcl0Kijnk05iPJsmvF9bl7w03rL81BIxMFyjExdgN1iZwrtNVP4xeJ10sGhbpiOxyipurKbjphqjwd4llT7gs90Sib_DT4SX20bmENRGCeld4/s1600/02+Babylonian+Ishtar+1750+b.c..jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtyPJ40jveTDQz862BYjFm4YgT8x3URdEcl0Kijnk05iPJsmvF9bl7w03rL81BIxMFyjExdgN1iZwrtNVP4xeJ10sGhbpiOxyipurKbjphqjwd4llT7gs90Sib_DT4SX20bmENRGCeld4/s200/02+Babylonian+Ishtar+1750+b.c..jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ishtar</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second room was devoted to myths of the
mother goddess, going back to 20,000 year old figures and pictograms in Spain,
through Ishtar, Isis, Hera and Juno, and even, very carefully, linking it to
the Virgin Mary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are sculptures of
Isis with a child that look remarkably like sculptures of Mary and Jesus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The third room was about Hercules because of
the Pillars of Hercules, and one of his labors had him stealing cattle from the
King of Tartessos.</span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">As I said
before, the main industry that we could see in Sanlύcar is sherry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Vast stretches of white buildings dominate
the upper town where they catch the sea breeze.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One morning we took a tour of the Barbadillo sherry bodega.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Barbadillo is the biggest distillery in town,
and the process of turning wine into sherry was very interesting, especially as
we have a little experience with California wineries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They start with a white grape, Palomino, which
is often grown in the area, but can be grown as far away as La Mancha.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They do bottle a white wine, but at least
half the harvest goes towards sherry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Some of the wine is distilled to a brandy that is remixed with the
original to bring it up to 15% alcohol content and started with a new
fermentation process with a different yeast in oak barrels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, the main secret, at least with
Barbadillo sherry, is that the new wine is constantly mixed with older
wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A sherry when it is bottled may be
six or more years old.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9McYelyA6PACvabFljfNyapxxFbv4_khlkAleUKazFKHQTk5vyK7sDjcoBj4_1cImR_MTbu42Z0m1kzQiMdugtem2BFu93C6CmO6h-CX_TAXh6bN9ED8-elc9m6Vl8P2Ho5Hp5Khv6L4/s1600/11+Barbadillo.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9McYelyA6PACvabFljfNyapxxFbv4_khlkAleUKazFKHQTk5vyK7sDjcoBj4_1cImR_MTbu42Z0m1kzQiMdugtem2BFu93C6CmO6h-CX_TAXh6bN9ED8-elc9m6Vl8P2Ho5Hp5Khv6L4/s200/11+Barbadillo.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sherry tour</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One third of the
barrel is drawn off to be bottled, and the barrel is refilled from a barrel one
stage younger, which is turn is refilled from a younger barrel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each barrel has its community of yeast which
is used to the alcohol content therein, and the final sherry approaches
18%.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This process, and the local
environment of cooling sea breezes, is what makes this wine a Manzanilla rather
than a Jerez sherry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Manzanilla
apparently translates as chamomile.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is both some of the chamomile flavor and color to the drink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the most interesting rooms our tour
guide took us to (we were again the only tourists) was what was called the
Cathedral – a huge tall room with rows of stacked barrels, windows opening to
the sea breeze and a sand floor to soak during the summer to keep the process
cool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also got to taste some of the
products.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides the wine and the
manzanilla, there is also amontillado, which is aged even further, and sweet
sherries, which are mixed with sweet grape wine.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9mNlhYqkoECLwhIQs3HxmgX7gY-rDz6vocgYTXW0LIgViKTZfvn2E3jrkrC4Y2BABaOPedZMGxV1QzwzzaPXJytXZk5e-ogfy_bIyVtZXdHQr4HPSDUEWs86lLd1Vrc8GjNZKmbsHTg/s1600/16+Looking+aft.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx9mNlhYqkoECLwhIQs3HxmgX7gY-rDz6vocgYTXW0LIgViKTZfvn2E3jrkrC4Y2BABaOPedZMGxV1QzwzzaPXJytXZk5e-ogfy_bIyVtZXdHQr4HPSDUEWs86lLd1Vrc8GjNZKmbsHTg/s200/16+Looking+aft.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Muddy waters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Sanlύcar’s
other claim to fame is as the gateway to the Donaña National Park, which
encompasses the marshes of the estuary of the Guadalquivir River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was struck with how many rivers in Spain
start with Guadal, so I looked it up in Wikipedia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The root word is from the Arabic Wadi al …,
in this case a word that means big, so Guadalquivir is the Big River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first time we walked down to the river, I
was wondering where the channel was, because all I could see was sand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It wasn’t until we got quite close that I
realized that I was looking at water and not sand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is the brownest river I have ever seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess this is because it runs through a lot
of dry, sandy countryside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is because
the river carries so much silt that the marshes exist that have been made into
the Donaña National Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Thousands of
years ago, the river emptied into a big delta estuary, but eventually it
created a sand bar (or ocean currents created it) and the marsh formed behind
the sand bar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The interaction between
the river, ocean, and sand is constantly changing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUf9lTmMjTQJQWQOzxsIV9RpYNVxKcDs87m-sa-6IVlhCO4ABMzeIN8OC76sE7TMTfduAtLssOoTPwXkLlU6WNkTE53ZhWaUgUK5iP1JpCz-4pGJnledH5vVrlWIfhHeoeCic95E5WXk/s1600/15+Donana+cruise+boat.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUf9lTmMjTQJQWQOzxsIV9RpYNVxKcDs87m-sa-6IVlhCO4ABMzeIN8OC76sE7TMTfduAtLssOoTPwXkLlU6WNkTE53ZhWaUgUK5iP1JpCz-4pGJnledH5vVrlWIfhHeoeCic95E5WXk/s200/15+Donana+cruise+boat.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donana boat cruise</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Our tour of
Donaña started with a short boat trip across the river, and then we got into
small 4-wheel drive buses which took us down the river shore and around to the
Atlantic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were enough people on
this tour to fill up 3 buses of about 30 each.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The talk was all in Spanish, so we missed a lot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Anyway, it was very interesting when we got
out to the bar at the current river mouth, because the difference between the
sandy river water and the blue ocean water was quite obvious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And of course, the Atlantic was much rougher.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were lots of seabirds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then the buses went inland to one of the pine
forests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX8TS8rAmN-iNmYCcSpBoWJoea2cAyNO0uRdxT-DH9ZSHgwDucx-mExfUSUHVTa3mfDVSRDcwLw0i2hJQg_DGlTCkJgR8r5n2_KtLvm3h0gogYTU1DCcBpfbZtb51NvJUoB1cP3FAuzGI/s1600/13+Donana+dune+and+forest.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX8TS8rAmN-iNmYCcSpBoWJoea2cAyNO0uRdxT-DH9ZSHgwDucx-mExfUSUHVTa3mfDVSRDcwLw0i2hJQg_DGlTCkJgR8r5n2_KtLvm3h0gogYTU1DCcBpfbZtb51NvJUoB1cP3FAuzGI/s200/13+Donana+dune+and+forest.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dunes versus forest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The sand dunes were
dramatically encroaching on the forest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then we drove back around and into a more inland area of pine trees,
which they still allow to be harvested for pine nuts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw some deer and wild pigs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we drove out to an overlook of the
marshes, but they are too wet to go into.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Finally, we went to an area that had had ranches and still has some of
the interesting rush-work houses that people lived in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There we boarded a boat to go down river back
to Sanlύcar, passing by a mountain of salt processed from the delta.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a very interesting morning. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfepIv1CYX6wxFYVoJ2-5xKdQlWnjiiCJcs-4XkjqB_lxdhpEbdGvVlP3rJKEFkY_aVzh6_QU0DTRYy-Qjw7UkWpwpg91DF-aGgZsBZQj5DgACDwyGh2KFjFkzKY3Gj6xcRLmbACA8oXo/s1600/17+Sanlucar+Boardwalk.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfepIv1CYX6wxFYVoJ2-5xKdQlWnjiiCJcs-4XkjqB_lxdhpEbdGvVlP3rJKEFkY_aVzh6_QU0DTRYy-Qjw7UkWpwpg91DF-aGgZsBZQj5DgACDwyGh2KFjFkzKY3Gj6xcRLmbACA8oXo/s200/17+Sanlucar+Boardwalk.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach and Promenade</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">On a
different day we rented bicycles and rode up and down the beach road for an
hour and a half.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Going towards the river
mouth (mostly west but also south) we got further than we had walking, down to
an area where there are small fishing boats, and then the road went over a hill
and into a new town which looked like it had experienced a big boom in sea side
housing starts, but is pretty empty looking now.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We could still overlook the river for a while
at view points, but eventually turned around when it seemed like we were
staying more inland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Traffic was
thankfully light on the roads, and eventually we got back to the riverside
promenade. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjje2PZP3MKRRihAiV7WLDqzukJHaLBCdjqgUikmt-5hnRzuAqkcML57OVDZXFwQfOPWlAE3bFTklm-kyCk9wZZwpkTultcxvtSJYbrNp6evNwr_RK7jvyl9DffZ6VcBBb-KBMbln5MBAc/s1600/21+Sanlucar+street.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjje2PZP3MKRRihAiV7WLDqzukJHaLBCdjqgUikmt-5hnRzuAqkcML57OVDZXFwQfOPWlAE3bFTklm-kyCk9wZZwpkTultcxvtSJYbrNp6evNwr_RK7jvyl9DffZ6VcBBb-KBMbln5MBAc/s200/21+Sanlucar+street.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sanlucar street</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Speaking of
the economic crisis, which is not very apparent to our tourist eyes, we feel
like we are seeing a lot of babies around town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Maybe it is no more than usual, but we have been wondering if, with 50%
unemployment among young people, they are viewing this as a good opportunity to
have a child.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">There have
not been a lot of cultural activities to go to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I think we have missed most of the flamenco.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are 2 places and they have always been
closed when we have gone by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They may be
open way past our bed time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The very
first weekend we were here, there was a woman playing the guitar and singing in
one place, but when we went back later, it was closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So when we saw a poster for a concert
commemorating the Constitution of 1812, we figured we should go.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This Constitution was created in Cadiz during
the Napoleonic occupation of Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was very liberal and democratic and never actually implemented by any
government, but they are still proud of it in Andalucía.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgblq2g4A5pVYoPMiTzICsC6iiWT2WNKR9KXdKPX2tL7t3dxvRtrRRC3ZFzwKDDFX9eNBO5i-frjWK955aWq9BtLGCiBuYKO0J3HrgsL0KqQ_M_bJcHR0CMxgSoIGNAdo7LXe0PcQgXOg/s1600/18+Church+Nuestra+Senora+de+la+O.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgblq2g4A5pVYoPMiTzICsC6iiWT2WNKR9KXdKPX2tL7t3dxvRtrRRC3ZFzwKDDFX9eNBO5i-frjWK955aWq9BtLGCiBuYKO0J3HrgsL0KqQ_M_bJcHR0CMxgSoIGNAdo7LXe0PcQgXOg/s200/18+Church+Nuestra+Senora+de+la+O.jpg" width="138" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church of Nuestra Senora de la O</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The concert was performed by a totally wind
and percussion orchestra, who looked like a mix of youth and mature
players.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First there was a lecture on
the constitution by a professor from the University of Cadiz, then the
orchestra played Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Hearing it played entirely by wind instruments along with percussion was
a very unique experience!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The orchestra
was actually quite good for amateurs, and there were very few false notes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then there was another lecture by another
professor about the battle of Matagorda during the defense of Cadiz, and the
heroism of a Scottish nurse named Agnes Reston.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The British were helping Spain free itself from French tyranny.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was followed by two short pieces for the
orchestra by Spanish composers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
there was a talk about the music by the president of the youth orchestra
followed by the Polka of Matagorda by an English composer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a reasonably good sized audience to
listen to all this in the town auditorium, which used to be a chapel owned by
the local nobility. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrGu4_OjfWaF8RBzfJ9pIveqCeHdw2GIYYzP8cobmpHvB5NpZFKOLWlVwWZGZRObQx5_OMi24vmbv7kaPujF8RZW3GcdaibgO8UJPhCjT48CpCLcRq3U2LOGKSf4F__lwrXb1t3h8-y8/s1600/19+Maria+del+Rocio+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYrGu4_OjfWaF8RBzfJ9pIveqCeHdw2GIYYzP8cobmpHvB5NpZFKOLWlVwWZGZRObQx5_OMi24vmbv7kaPujF8RZW3GcdaibgO8UJPhCjT48CpCLcRq3U2LOGKSf4F__lwrXb1t3h8-y8/s200/19+Maria+del+Rocio+2.jpg" width="143" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Virgin del Rocio</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Finally, we
have a few pictures from the churches around town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of them have striking ceramic tile
pictures on their outer walls of the Virgin or Christ or other Saints.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other buildings have them too, mostly
religious, but sometimes commemorating historical figures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even some of the businesses and summer villas
have a little plaque to Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have been able to go into some of the
local churches, particularly the three that are on our daily walk, but they are
open for religious reasons, not for tourism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Like most of the Spanish churches we have seen, there are almost no
windows, but the altars and side altars are very ornate and have particularly
life like statues.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Now we are
off to Granada for a few days and then Madrid and then home!</span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AH_CmZBNAjZir37eryoNLYGlBzEAHGN9Le2CaLefUt1SSppzsZddKYuRXmkyq5cd208Ibugj4F3DiqSEUTpwYAiWgPhZWM4WrzI5yRKdxskv4wIYKgzZLDil9EAnB244y_jfAQ0fnME/s1600/20+Famous+people.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9AH_CmZBNAjZir37eryoNLYGlBzEAHGN9Le2CaLefUt1SSppzsZddKYuRXmkyq5cd208Ibugj4F3DiqSEUTpwYAiWgPhZWM4WrzI5yRKdxskv4wIYKgzZLDil9EAnB244y_jfAQ0fnME/s320/20+Famous+people.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magellan and Elcano, who sailed from Sanlucar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-45994966282100739982012-11-29T06:08:00.001-08:002012-12-08T10:19:00.672-08:00Sanlucar de Barrameda Part 1<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRWfDJPiViXc72akzQfxUBc_-79FFkr_zEiSn0W2xUfQ5E3dGCep-xF-u6omPC9T-KuAuzXj3pMZWaU-P-os_nEc-pTnFTkV4hWXcakTrv06jpeR2KLoBcgZ0bdLB_SZPLg9Zkipl5KE/s1600/01+Sanlucar+sunset.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="122" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnRWfDJPiViXc72akzQfxUBc_-79FFkr_zEiSn0W2xUfQ5E3dGCep-xF-u6omPC9T-KuAuzXj3pMZWaU-P-os_nEc-pTnFTkV4hWXcakTrv06jpeR2KLoBcgZ0bdLB_SZPLg9Zkipl5KE/s400/01+Sanlucar+sunset.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sanlucar sunset</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoKnxegPv4KITqRJX3ntGmZgb1xC4OmMEiElrkDWh4qpTKHPgWAFwdhjCqFQL06LQqt_0_JsWAwzvJnTTbjriR1NxVzPBpA2oRGGPvBhbCUNtroo6fZ9qzYQ_KosHRSu-Pk0xbvM221F8/s1600/03+Plaza+Cabildo.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoKnxegPv4KITqRJX3ntGmZgb1xC4OmMEiElrkDWh4qpTKHPgWAFwdhjCqFQL06LQqt_0_JsWAwzvJnTTbjriR1NxVzPBpA2oRGGPvBhbCUNtroo6fZ9qzYQ_KosHRSu-Pk0xbvM221F8/s200/03+Plaza+Cabildo.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plaza Cabildo</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On Friday November 16, we
arrived in Sanlύcar de Barrameda.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
forgot to mention in the previous post that as soon as the train went over some
hills and into the valley of Seville, we started going through orange
groves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The main trees planted along the
streets of Sanlύcar are oranges, all beginning to look ripe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have picked one so far, but I am letting it
ripen a little more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are also palm
trees and Norfolk Island pines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Oddly,
we have not found any orange marmalade in the stores.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The hotel offers apricot jam, and that is the
main thing found in the stores.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess
all the marmalade is for the overseas markets. </span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJS7ufZ8q5qNCa4pigoz1iVzEof1p3jX4xtPHPOO0FKGOMi-2QzpUe86X-AQKBQtS5iyB6rTmA8lLTJW0GVQVFlmCg20qtJGF3evJVhkpbWUjwXrhUqFtrfD9T8Rne1ErsAP9PBg0ZSac/s1600/02+Hotel+Los+Hellechos.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJS7ufZ8q5qNCa4pigoz1iVzEof1p3jX4xtPHPOO0FKGOMi-2QzpUe86X-AQKBQtS5iyB6rTmA8lLTJW0GVQVFlmCg20qtJGF3evJVhkpbWUjwXrhUqFtrfD9T8Rne1ErsAP9PBg0ZSac/s200/02+Hotel+Los+Hellechos.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel los Helechos</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We came to this town
because of a book we read last year called Spanish Recognitions, by Mary Lee
Settle. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a very quirky tale of her
travels through Spain at age 82, and her thoughts on Spanish history and
character.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She ended her travels in
Sanlucar, and made it sound very appealing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I just googled her, and she died in 2005 at the age of 86.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYIuwxayjHkwAWzGhstXnKgENNcS-CgTbUwKvLjKgtf06wHQo1kj5Rf0Q3zLUM2YDfBLT0TDiBcF9a85ZPjM1btiCczPTfjJqw6V1IZvXV-0hyphenhyphenHJCkl-Hcikw0rZkFvgHFFQiFsq5M8zg/s1600/04+View+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYIuwxayjHkwAWzGhstXnKgENNcS-CgTbUwKvLjKgtf06wHQo1kj5Rf0Q3zLUM2YDfBLT0TDiBcF9a85ZPjM1btiCczPTfjJqw6V1IZvXV-0hyphenhyphenHJCkl-Hcikw0rZkFvgHFFQiFsq5M8zg/s200/04+View+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of river mouth and sea</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We have been in Medieval
Spain and in Roman Spain; now we are in modern Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This town is about the same size as
Rockville, and only a couple of degrees further south, but its climate is
moderated by its coastal location on the mouth of the Guadalquivir River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are, in fact, old buildings here
–churches, a castle and a palacio up on the hill above the main town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>500 years ago the river ran quite close to
the hill, but what used to be the Marine drive is now a half mile inland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We enjoy walking down to the river and along
the beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During the high season of
July and August, the town must be filled with tourists, but right now it is
quiet and mostly the natives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The main
industry here is sherry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are
dozens of large complexes devoted to creating Manzanilla, which is what you
order in the restaurants – una copita de Manzanilla – and not sherry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sea breeze is supposed to give the wine
its local flavor. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkiW50Sy1TmzI8FrgqwQ1OH9xyNV3bDgurbowVkja-UgIRa1ZtDbszwCPUszfXaq7sXYCvX9Tpf3_CcTdSOpZG2hDgaluet6ejiUnvOesOPSyRdgttFMf6Bx6u9k-F9Gs0ah8MDB8ckfs/s1600/05+Roofs+and+steeples.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkiW50Sy1TmzI8FrgqwQ1OH9xyNV3bDgurbowVkja-UgIRa1ZtDbszwCPUszfXaq7sXYCvX9Tpf3_CcTdSOpZG2hDgaluet6ejiUnvOesOPSyRdgttFMf6Bx6u9k-F9Gs0ah8MDB8ckfs/s200/05+Roofs+and+steeples.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rooftops and steeples</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We stayed through the
weekend at a pleasant hotel with a lovely central courtyard, and then on
Wednesday we moved into an apartment where we will stay for 2 weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It still amazes me that traveling and staying
in apartments has worked out so well on this trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The ability to cook for ourselves has
certainly made the trip more affordable, and an apartment is more pleasant than
a hotel for a longer stay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is also
true that Spain, unfortunately, is a really difficult country to eat out in for
a vegetarian.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know what they eat
at home, but the Spanish certainly seem to expect meat or seafood when they eat
out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have to be careful that there
isn’t tuna in the salads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have eaten
a couple of times at a Chinese restaurant.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zwuAXR2Iv_DYeK7E-CsABY3ek1K0SxaDcqTjKt68TQOTa2b6lnddfVLhau0Gw-m4Ql2mJ8SvOqX6_BVPrRqtB2oJV9na4QBioi8gmvUpsTYQIDqUSnYSW9bgfPgN-k1GJtfzcoo6Fno/s1600/06+Castillo+de+Santiago.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="94" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6zwuAXR2Iv_DYeK7E-CsABY3ek1K0SxaDcqTjKt68TQOTa2b6lnddfVLhau0Gw-m4Ql2mJ8SvOqX6_BVPrRqtB2oJV9na4QBioi8gmvUpsTYQIDqUSnYSW9bgfPgN-k1GJtfzcoo6Fno/s320/06+Castillo+de+Santiago.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castillo de Santiago</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">To begin with, our days
were filled with walking around the town squares and down to the beach and
wondering where our next meal was coming from.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Now that we are settled in, we have gone to some of the highlights.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Castillo de Santiago dates from the 15<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is almost completely intact
(probably with some reconstruction) and it has to be among the plainest castles
I have seen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was built to withstand
artillery, so there is a double wall, and the interior walls are at least 3
feet thick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The keep tower is hexagonal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Queen Isabella is said to have first seen the
Atlantic Ocean from its window in 1477.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgOG4cpuG3njePZMR2LGty1_qsns-zoTuE7T-T2ZfnPk2J5RECsDinqxoNfSHon-0oasLCQn7LA3k3tm75NOycqKxL8t836BFvKh-LVfM8do9IrHumCyv3IhGJkKcIlCWnNyeXggwuHI/s1600/07+Orlenas-Borbon+Palace.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQgOG4cpuG3njePZMR2LGty1_qsns-zoTuE7T-T2ZfnPk2J5RECsDinqxoNfSHon-0oasLCQn7LA3k3tm75NOycqKxL8t836BFvKh-LVfM8do9IrHumCyv3IhGJkKcIlCWnNyeXggwuHI/s200/07+Orlenas-Borbon+Palace.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palacio de Orleans-Bourbon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The other most notable building
in the upper, old town is the Orleans-Bourbon Summer Palace from the 19<sup>th</sup>
century, now the town hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a very
striking orange and red building with beautiful doors and windows in the
neo-mudejar, or Moorish, style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tour
was in Spanish – even if it had been in English, I don’t think I would be clear
about what branch of the French royal family lived here and why, but it is a
lovely house with very nice gardens.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcdP3gdjF9mj_EMJBKq5sjxm4Ts-OA9CJsBz9nKh_wS5v0yLvdLIdSxf9DLfSwvJxGTkE7f6EahweQotHIm9uVpVMvL4GYf031eCngK56V7_iBO-C58nrfLb_N4s94bkdBdi0PB45bgz8/s1600/08+Orlenas-Borbon+entrance.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcdP3gdjF9mj_EMJBKq5sjxm4Ts-OA9CJsBz9nKh_wS5v0yLvdLIdSxf9DLfSwvJxGTkE7f6EahweQotHIm9uVpVMvL4GYf031eCngK56V7_iBO-C58nrfLb_N4s94bkdBdi0PB45bgz8/s200/08+Orlenas-Borbon+entrance.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to Palacio</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">There will be more to post
about the Doñana National Park across the Guadalquivir River and the sherry
wine industry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have decided to return
to the US on December 12 for a month or so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the way to
Madrid we will also stop at Granada, so stay tuned!</span></div>
<br />
<br />AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-5689231750035822222012-11-21T01:13:00.001-08:002012-11-21T01:24:51.587-08:00Merida<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb3M6D_8rBDauWFahMdZP-6QAXxtDG2PM_NTPh7vEOEvkIIpbFLPwoKrFE0IssbQS0VWueDXRSHid-xJ3D_AJwS7lomn9t4NfaZTKCnfXtGDGJtChRNG8kV4QIOz1y2-AOt_91wQ1hwQ/s1600/04+Roman+aqueduct.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggb3M6D_8rBDauWFahMdZP-6QAXxtDG2PM_NTPh7vEOEvkIIpbFLPwoKrFE0IssbQS0VWueDXRSHid-xJ3D_AJwS7lomn9t4NfaZTKCnfXtGDGJtChRNG8kV4QIOz1y2-AOt_91wQ1hwQ/s200/04+Roman+aqueduct.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman aqueduct</td></tr>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On November 12, we arrived
in Merida, Spain by train around 8 pm and took a taxi to our hotel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On our previous trip to Spain, we had read
about Merida, but not gotten there, so we were pleased to make it this
time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our most important stop on our
first night was to go around the corner from our hotel to the Calle John
Lennon, where we found a pizza parlor for dinner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It turns out that most of the streets in
Merida are named after famous people, from Roman times to the present.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Otherwise, we found that Calle John Lennon
was pretty much just a normal street.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This is a good place to add that we always felt comfortable walking
around at night in all the places in Europe we have been. </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAr8Gs1l-SSgYfdeL7htm9EQs02TzhoLQpaIX52J6lM9Ziiyz2jpaZamVc0v0t90IKamajIVJIKk6drG_1CzlXoPYc6PvPiMZvIcaoHRrZhdTVU5Ng9ywfRW2tktipprP5LA0uk9gml_Q/s1600/01+Calle+John+Lennon.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="72" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAr8Gs1l-SSgYfdeL7htm9EQs02TzhoLQpaIX52J6lM9Ziiyz2jpaZamVc0v0t90IKamajIVJIKk6drG_1CzlXoPYc6PvPiMZvIcaoHRrZhdTVU5Ng9ywfRW2tktipprP5LA0uk9gml_Q/s200/01+Calle+John+Lennon.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The main attractions of
Avila had been medieval; the main attractions of Merida are Roman.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was created in 25 BC as Colonia Emerita
Augusta for veterans of two of Rome’s legions, and as the capital of one of the
three provinces of Roman Hispania.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
similarities with Nimes are obvious, and it was fascinating to compare their
remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIky85F6jv_eGOo6lRgjmhbSJEt2DSoGmLM8Pl6pRN_298GtKjZqTuan_M_hk9iRnLE1xSWAgi1aPMi3-_flE7jMm-4gky3hzCJuQtKN2AGFiKEPNLnmqtEFJtKDEAWK0733ajzKrOcdE/s1600/02+Roman+Bridge+viewed+from+Alcazaba.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIky85F6jv_eGOo6lRgjmhbSJEt2DSoGmLM8Pl6pRN_298GtKjZqTuan_M_hk9iRnLE1xSWAgi1aPMi3-_flE7jMm-4gky3hzCJuQtKN2AGFiKEPNLnmqtEFJtKDEAWK0733ajzKrOcdE/s200/02+Roman+Bridge+viewed+from+Alcazaba.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman bridge viewed from Alcazaba</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just a few blocks from our
hotel was the Roman bridge across the Guadiana river.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is still in use as a pedestrian
bridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its Roman origins are obvious,
but it has also been kept up and restored many times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are two different aqueduct remains, but
one of them turned out to be 17<sup>th</sup> century, although it followed much
of the route of a Roman aqueduct, of which only three arches remain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The water in both systems is carried from
reservoirs that the Romans created with dams, and these are still used for
water and flood control. </span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">17th century aqueduct</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Merida also has an
Amphitheater, but it is much more ruined than the one in Nimes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am glad that we saw both, because otherwise
the Merida one would have been harder to visualize completely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the other hand, Merida has a very
impressive and well preserved Theater.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The innovation that the Romans made to the Greek theater was to add a
“scaenae frons” as the magnificent and dramatic backdrop to the stage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With two floors of columns and statues, it is
a very imposing building, built to impress the masses with Roman pomp and
ceremony.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I learned that the
Amphitheater is two theaters put together to create the central action area – I
had never thought of it that way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrJ2v5YNpIB4vtLgkgw-RI2zYDYgJiwJJU2db3ENCLnpYoON-TCXHtVMCBgR4GtlNwyIMkT6kdK1bNnK1ARpfOnbkHiUMSS_AhO9O7ZO-se81yAZxIwNN_NwQ_pQL6zgqaNSKGGAf15s/s1600/05+Alex+at+the+Theater.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrJ2v5YNpIB4vtLgkgw-RI2zYDYgJiwJJU2db3ENCLnpYoON-TCXHtVMCBgR4GtlNwyIMkT6kdK1bNnK1ARpfOnbkHiUMSS_AhO9O7ZO-se81yAZxIwNN_NwQ_pQL6zgqaNSKGGAf15s/s200/05+Alex+at+the+Theater.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roman Theater</td></tr>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Merida
now has a summer spectacular of classical theater on this stage, so this is a
building which has been restored enough to continue using, just like the
Amphitheater in Nimes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Another classic Roman
edifice that Merida has is a circus – the place where chariot races were
held.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is not a lot to see there;
the stands are mostly not clearly delineated, and I could not tell how high up
they went.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the race track itself,
and the central “spine” are still quite obvious, and the little exhibition room
did a good job of describing the importance of this sport to the Romans, just like
car racing for the modern world. </span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfEtJLgkXoK7VpXXvsex1y9Fwg43JYBn7-qtj2Pq05vRR4F_oM2zyEYh6GLvWakk753ciLGjBnAjLnV5o7s-ykahyphenhyphenxntvEPGwNItsDpU07jSq07bSxVWWuPETjlS27Ue50IIvxSV_IfE/s1600/06+Roman+circus.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfEtJLgkXoK7VpXXvsex1y9Fwg43JYBn7-qtj2Pq05vRR4F_oM2zyEYh6GLvWakk753ciLGjBnAjLnV5o7s-ykahyphenhyphenxntvEPGwNItsDpU07jSq07bSxVWWuPETjlS27Ue50IIvxSV_IfE/s200/06+Roman+circus.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Circus</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">There are the remains of
two forums in the center of Merida.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In
the main one there is a Temple which is a great illustration of the fate of
many ancient monuments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After the Visigoths conquered the Romans, they built a church in the area and destroyed many pagan images, and then the Moors
built a mosque, which the Christians tore down when they returned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the 17<sup>th</sup> century the local
Count thought that the Roman pillars would make a good façade for his house, so
he built his palacio within the temple.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IYOwLLG60k30CPttJhS_x9CANeVWBY-sOeZcSfdcpY19SIztMr9qIbpLz4I6jNN2uLK84KLhsoU0qIbN_bgipAJyb3yMxLTxGgHd_s3XVtJQKrHyLcRa16O8S5eb2nhf1ODdIsGWqaA/s1600/07+Forum+Temple.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6IYOwLLG60k30CPttJhS_x9CANeVWBY-sOeZcSfdcpY19SIztMr9qIbpLz4I6jNN2uLK84KLhsoU0qIbN_bgipAJyb3yMxLTxGgHd_s3XVtJQKrHyLcRa16O8S5eb2nhf1ODdIsGWqaA/s200/07+Forum+Temple.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forum Temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the 1970s when the city was renovating everything, they decided to
leave part of the house while restoring the forum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The temple is also interestingly different
because it has 2 rows of columns around it; one free standing and one with half
pillars built into the walls of the temple.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWh-5uc-W5WsFKkeDCLznkoQOo0OOZgAyNUJ-upRmxbRVtCgDUA_qr0pXc2NM6XgQj5Xj1LNfe-QqNSkxMIlvFgN7LQLlSt4S8QSNJ-WU8niB9cS4lv42bdpBylxahQR6lNLMwbqRM2w/s1600/08+Ducal+palace.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDWh-5uc-W5WsFKkeDCLznkoQOo0OOZgAyNUJ-upRmxbRVtCgDUA_qr0pXc2NM6XgQj5Xj1LNfe-QqNSkxMIlvFgN7LQLlSt4S8QSNJ-WU8niB9cS4lv42bdpBylxahQR6lNLMwbqRM2w/s200/08+Ducal+palace.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ducal Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Merida seems to be one of
those European towns that keeps finding ruins every time someone starts to
build something, including the Museum of Roman Art.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So there and at a government building site,
they put the building up on piers so that the ruins could be left for
excavation as time and money allowed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They also have a very interesting Roman villa, called Mithreo’s House,
which is well excavated and roofed over to protect the remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTdt7cDG_B4R4WTTlM8LTKT-Ln8tTCrw3TiYXebwzGqpgE02wDSGbT4yFGIH9rIIDJHKSrSfAZ_PPapvuD6TBenfn8FQrheOpPF9lO5KNn0x3gc_owCoeRGYOItK1ipaz81WRTPKXTfwU/s1600/09+House+of+Mithreo.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTdt7cDG_B4R4WTTlM8LTKT-Ln8tTCrw3TiYXebwzGqpgE02wDSGbT4yFGIH9rIIDJHKSrSfAZ_PPapvuD6TBenfn8FQrheOpPF9lO5KNn0x3gc_owCoeRGYOItK1ipaz81WRTPKXTfwU/s200/09+House+of+Mithreo.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">House of Mithreo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can walk around the perimeter and they
have good displays describing the rooms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are many frescoes and mosaics still in place, and it is a very
interesting archeological site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Roman Art Museum was really excellent for its size.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The building has a large 3 story atrium in its
center which fits the monumental scope and thrust of the Roman world.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The basement, as I said, is old walls and
water channels still mostly waiting to be studied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The main hall and 3 open floors along one
side of it have many statues, frescoes and mosaics, as well as smaller
articles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We enjoyed learning about
Mithreo, for instance, who is the god of infinite time, borrowed from the
Persian’s Mithra, and who seems to have had a cult following in the city. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3E04YbsVcApTX7fPXzNe6NYPj8YWTs8IMqg0703mKqWPbyryNmeGy0h_O02J2oI7NV-NPMyDRlQkuE0WXJRG75xDCXV6LZY0ho7jHkBYg3zNdMLlC1KaBUVMsc4B_phhGER5VF1zaemc/s1600/10+Roman+museum.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3E04YbsVcApTX7fPXzNe6NYPj8YWTs8IMqg0703mKqWPbyryNmeGy0h_O02J2oI7NV-NPMyDRlQkuE0WXJRG75xDCXV6LZY0ho7jHkBYg3zNdMLlC1KaBUVMsc4B_phhGER5VF1zaemc/s200/10+Roman+museum.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum of Roman Art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">There was not much
information about the Visigoths who succeeded the Romans, but there was a small
museum about them with rather random stone carvings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were Christian barbarians by the time they
took over from the Romans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Merida is the
first place we’ve been to with any Moorish remains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a large citadel, the Alcazaba, still
standing that was very near our hotel. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It dominated the entrance to the city over the
Roman Bridge, incorporating all that is left of the ancient walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is an interesting tower there which
also had an underground passage that lead out to the walls and an old roman
dike which the Moors modified into a cistern for the fort’s water supply.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWjUHf3FaLeeLf3MldIVifNsbifV5ho85gFSeRCQJJBgvjZvIjKjKxUawENo3dHDNNrk_k1u0mT9uhCGZG7qcWZVk1NQwNLgfiU75Hm80LPSHaniBAKXcXBJ2UbfTP31RdQd0m7lSI8k/s1600/11+Mithras+God+of+Infinite+Time.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicWjUHf3FaLeeLf3MldIVifNsbifV5ho85gFSeRCQJJBgvjZvIjKjKxUawENo3dHDNNrk_k1u0mT9uhCGZG7qcWZVk1NQwNLgfiU75Hm80LPSHaniBAKXcXBJ2UbfTP31RdQd0m7lSI8k/s200/11+Mithras+God+of+Infinite+Time.jpg" width="66" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">God of Infinite Time</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was an excavation area which turned out
to be down at a Roman level, and we were amazed to explore back around a
building (that we hoped had toilets) and to instead discover stacks of mosaics.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Even the Basilica of Saint
Eulalia, a fourth century martyr, is interesting mostly for the variety of
remains from many eras found in its crypt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTAYtppA9jGE9e0Md_zrvEhn0vvvDqqMGwXcIagrVJetF6HC9lcq06rG9QCCE31u8sfTESjtZPN2RwGyeLY9JOMqYRz63d9qbSeQ8nx-SG5YNd5A3atWFXEl2JEXvGeXcVBDgeZQ8Yi4/s1600/12+Colonia+Emerita+Augusta.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLTAYtppA9jGE9e0Md_zrvEhn0vvvDqqMGwXcIagrVJetF6HC9lcq06rG9QCCE31u8sfTESjtZPN2RwGyeLY9JOMqYRz63d9qbSeQ8nx-SG5YNd5A3atWFXEl2JEXvGeXcVBDgeZQ8Yi4/s200/12+Colonia+Emerita+Augusta.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colonia Emerita Augusta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also found the modern
day city of Merida to be a pleasant town to wonder around in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We happened to be there during a general
strike called throughout Europe on November 14 to protest austerity
measures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly the town was very quiet
that day, and we did our part in trying not to engage in economic
activities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a march through
town in the early evening, and I think maybe one in the morning in support of
education, but as befits a small town, it was all quite low key.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As foreign visitors, we just tried to stay
out of the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj1-9tgXex2oXG_dlQgVFJRpK40Kv7MtSMrcAUUnVJHf5suuNLZOX5rD5cHbzgE-IRVN0H0v4QRZie9PqPN9tIR_se42WNTnhRkpW89j7dNWFSTP5gj8Ji2fLXMCBgAms80YnTCVg8vqs/s1600/13+Awaiting+the+Restoration+2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj1-9tgXex2oXG_dlQgVFJRpK40Kv7MtSMrcAUUnVJHf5suuNLZOX5rD5cHbzgE-IRVN0H0v4QRZie9PqPN9tIR_se42WNTnhRkpW89j7dNWFSTP5gj8Ji2fLXMCBgAms80YnTCVg8vqs/s200/13+Awaiting+the+Restoration+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Miscellaneous mosaics</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Merida is also of note
because we found our first vegetarian restaurant for weeks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is even harder to be vegetarian in Spain
than in France.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Shangri-La has been
in business for about 2 years, the owner told us, and she feels like she has
opened people’s minds about food choices and lifestyles.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We had 3 packed days in
Merida and then left by train on the morning of November 16 on another slow
“medium distance” train heading south though small towns on the plains and over
some hills to Seville about noon, where we transferred to a local medium
distance bus which took us 3 hours down to the coastal town of Sanlucar de
Barrameda on the mouth of the Guadalquivir River.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We feel like we have really reached the far
corner of this continent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hope to
settle down for an extended stay here.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipVr0DdfKWijsQQgLz2h0IaqmrBIx9zmv_7d32ddFeaxn7k5JhGYztBrIzDwc0M3jgA07hkJxZceJ2dGfiXT1cfEAltsScXUrx4P7_iMv2W4MftKoaN7NOyHsCpaL2oB6p_PzVyeBsW8c/s1600/14+Vegetarian+Politics.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipVr0DdfKWijsQQgLz2h0IaqmrBIx9zmv_7d32ddFeaxn7k5JhGYztBrIzDwc0M3jgA07hkJxZceJ2dGfiXT1cfEAltsScXUrx4P7_iMv2W4MftKoaN7NOyHsCpaL2oB6p_PzVyeBsW8c/s320/14+Vegetarian+Politics.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-7677380771067849972012-11-19T08:03:00.004-08:002012-11-19T10:57:09.081-08:00Avila<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnEShu3vxOUZpxk719IJNUPxVGc4NvqwkUvJsjd5Wp5H2Z4ikaThPwTiqW5tD355Xov32Ux8urfs1TQRgJh1MvsEmem_PRANNU6ACs-FKGYBvsEPfubbdr7IL-VWvFj36nTkuLPRx6n8/s1600/01+Avila+walls.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdnEShu3vxOUZpxk719IJNUPxVGc4NvqwkUvJsjd5Wp5H2Z4ikaThPwTiqW5tD355Xov32Ux8urfs1TQRgJh1MvsEmem_PRANNU6ACs-FKGYBvsEPfubbdr7IL-VWvFj36nTkuLPRx6n8/s640/01+Avila+walls.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The walls of Avila</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIySydvo8dJlzzBkrRqt_-8yumGNdzavfU0NOZFCXbau9TqLTwBkJGUwH_jpf2YVTtzq_VGVtS50pdcmi_ikoQTD_YTrhir4mWkzaJ8lwPkA6_TJr0pRww0ZeQCmaAHh4xcB1UeG7Wyo/s1600/02+Las+Cancelas.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBIySydvo8dJlzzBkrRqt_-8yumGNdzavfU0NOZFCXbau9TqLTwBkJGUwH_jpf2YVTtzq_VGVtS50pdcmi_ikoQTD_YTrhir4mWkzaJ8lwPkA6_TJr0pRww0ZeQCmaAHh4xcB1UeG7Wyo/s200/02+Las+Cancelas.jpg" width="97" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel Cancelas street</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On the afternoon of
November 8, we left Bayonne, France by train for Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is still true that one has to change
trains at the Spanish border; in this case in the town of Irun.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently the track gauge in Spain is different
from that in the rest of Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
going to the town of Avila in north central Spain on a “Medium Distance” train,
which meant that it stopped at a town about every half hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went through the mountains while it was
still light; forest-covered and craggy mountains and tunnels.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All of the mountains that we could see were
not so high as to get above the tree line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We arrived at Avila about 10 p.m. to the lovely hotel of Las Cancelas,
which is right around the corner from the Cathedral in the old walled section
of town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And by corner I mean a narrow
passage way between high stone walls that looked like the taxi cab would not be
able to squeeze around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stayed in
this hotel in 2003 when we visited Avila while Agnes was a student in
Salamanca.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though we had been to
Avila before, we were excited to return. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi7RF3lNtpVt0X9657P_IyqP7aFu-147PWmzepTYM31TN1WH7XwFe1vGvLv_dOEjj_e1K-BRH5J-QZ4wKP45fseR1CYWvwwZYbHLwXzHukbg6HqnADbmjUFE22fq3Nz8X-r6uOB_b-Gs/s1600/03+Avila+Street.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCi7RF3lNtpVt0X9657P_IyqP7aFu-147PWmzepTYM31TN1WH7XwFe1vGvLv_dOEjj_e1K-BRH5J-QZ4wKP45fseR1CYWvwwZYbHLwXzHukbg6HqnADbmjUFE22fq3Nz8X-r6uOB_b-Gs/s200/03+Avila+Street.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avila view of plain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Avila is a wonderful
medieval city with an intact wall built in the 12<sup>th</sup> century
surrounding the old town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Of course the
modern city is about 4 to 5 times the size of the old one, but from the heights
of the wall you can still see the entire city and the surrounding plain and
encircling hills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Like most European
cities, it does not straggle out in suburbs with increasingly large homes and
gardens, but has a pretty clear demarcation between town and farm land.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is most well known as the home of Saint
Teresa of Avila and Saint John of the Cross in the 16<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lest one get captivated by the sanctity,
let us</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">remember that it was also the home, at least on occasion, of Torquemada,
Grand Inquisitor, and that heretic burning occurred in the square outside of
the walls near our hotel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently
Saint Teresa approved.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpxP4yI_J0-F45aOKbgbhkUIpauWvTXGM7jJ0icENzBYaqjzo0uAXOf-IBMpP8oSoOeFwdhJu7x2vLcG7hj3oZBoi0pw41y3uSl7rcBHV17-PIgtw9pe7sgMo9mpg5ueVk8Tj6rpN38w/s1600/04+Cathedral+Fortress.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDpxP4yI_J0-F45aOKbgbhkUIpauWvTXGM7jJ0icENzBYaqjzo0uAXOf-IBMpP8oSoOeFwdhJu7x2vLcG7hj3oZBoi0pw41y3uSl7rcBHV17-PIgtw9pe7sgMo9mpg5ueVk8Tj6rpN38w/s200/04+Cathedral+Fortress.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral fortress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We went to many churches,
monasteries and convents.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many, but not
all, have a connection with these saints.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Most are more Romanesque than Gothic, by which I mostly mean that the
buildings seem heavy and thick-walled and very dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even the ones where the Gothic arch is used
and the nave can be much taller still are dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They do not have large stained glass windows letting in floods of
colored light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have little tiny
windows (which might have stained glass) high up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They feel like fortresses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact the Cathedral is built into the city
wall and was part of the defensive fortifications.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It feels like a Church which kept up the
Inquisition for a long time. </span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MFu_WYpw-qR6ulfFTtGc88VEBUwYWMTL_hL-ztdI20NdJnghLRNjiofSklT7deaykG-FLzQPn7AfTkN9N1wzm8IJSi2r0WXH97EikoqeRFDT7ZJQERLFTqaNX7wH8ubNuFCN1cLdAAI/s1600/05+Cathedral+door.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7MFu_WYpw-qR6ulfFTtGc88VEBUwYWMTL_hL-ztdI20NdJnghLRNjiofSklT7deaykG-FLzQPn7AfTkN9N1wzm8IJSi2r0WXH97EikoqeRFDT7ZJQERLFTqaNX7wH8ubNuFCN1cLdAAI/s200/05+Cathedral+door.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral door</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Many of the churches are
beautiful in their own way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The stone
carving around the outside doors is quite fascinating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of the interior carvings on the altars
and sepulchers are intricate and very three dimensional even in
bas-relief.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the altars are
gilded, but they do not shine out the way the Viennese ones did because of the
low light.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Among the places we went to
was the Royal Monastery of Saint Tomas Aquinas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This was built by their royal highnesses Ferdinand and Isabella.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has 3 cloisters, including one for the royal
court, which would come to Avila in the summers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It contains the sepulcher of their son Juan
who died of smallpox at the age of 19.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>He had been</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGi_b-Zda4-4WuozSr4_W8B1ZzTCYtN60s49uqi0gvFeJX0zFsn0mLGxT-rxkslsnu8-JXP4O_2m7fXq7H2SrXL2R7FFcFXK9DL6AKr4cXAxz184D0lZlcaA5JTkZutAsJM1rT56fXKDw/s1600/08+Cloister+at+San+Tomas.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGi_b-Zda4-4WuozSr4_W8B1ZzTCYtN60s49uqi0gvFeJX0zFsn0mLGxT-rxkslsnu8-JXP4O_2m7fXq7H2SrXL2R7FFcFXK9DL6AKr4cXAxz184D0lZlcaA5JTkZutAsJM1rT56fXKDw/s200/08+Cloister+at+San+Tomas.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloister of Saint Thomas Monastery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">married for one year to the daughter of Emperor Maximilian
of Austria.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Saint Teresa had her own
personal confessional built into the wall of one of the cloisters and opening
into the side chapel where she had so many ecstatic visions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Part of the royal cloister is now called a
Museum of Oriental art; 3 – 4 rooms with mostly Chinese art which the Dominican
monks brought back from their mission work – nice small pieces, much of it
Buddhist, Taoist or Confucian. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4GHcvEDJCQnzgxBgBu4g3a5xf6FIq_5ISCcIotU8yGdyGh30LveT65smuRcVBwktJvyg0kWjN715OixfCOuYGE61dkDYPD7DyCClhPmwBbP5h7Z2xhYphjSTIFxOtDNLle7hjFNODQcI/s1600/09+Sepulcher+of+Prince+Juan.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="87" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4GHcvEDJCQnzgxBgBu4g3a5xf6FIq_5ISCcIotU8yGdyGh30LveT65smuRcVBwktJvyg0kWjN715OixfCOuYGE61dkDYPD7DyCClhPmwBbP5h7Z2xhYphjSTIFxOtDNLle7hjFNODQcI/s200/09+Sepulcher+of+Prince+Juan.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sepulcher of Prince Juan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also went to the
Convent of Santa Teresa, which was built on the site of the house where she was
born.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a little chapel to the
side of the main altar that is where the room used to be that she was born
in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next to it is a small walled garden
where she used to read as a child.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Below
the convent is a museum devoted to the Saint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Finally we went to the Monastery of the Incarnation, which is where Saint
Teresa lived for 30 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are 3
rooms open to the public.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlpBHse0elfpSevhVn9qlvTJp_4NLZDrM33lHLoJh9hBjZ3bW44-_fPn15Snb46vX855lNx6JDZEq6qxKOcACxVLke7SRbevt4fhlgt_WkkjnWnXz8EaH76cdkGkU-WVpbUsUKe_WTMBA/s200/06+Carving.jpg" width="200" /></span> </span>Two of them
are recreations of what the convent has been like over the last 400 years, and
the final one full of relics from Teresa’s life and a few from Saint John of
the Cross.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a half-life size
statue of Saint Joseph, whom she considered a personal father figure, whom she
used to put on her abbess’s chair when she traveled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When she returned, she would talk to the
statue and he would tell her everything that had happened in the convent while
she was gone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were also a number
of other churches we went into besides the Cathedral itself – The Basilica of
St. Vincent, the Chapel of Mosen Rubi, and the Church of San Pedro.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were each interesting and different. </span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94-Xn0dxfv1QdY92MiQVwGJ1ol19WLn2A2rR6Wr4QuC0C6SZlgLkqcElafW9B_JeVbmzcmCzYWDJn4iGbb0iyxIy0mS6foiHWZd_V24DKkL38FSKWjitU07PLU3h7hxNgeAIqsFtL9A8/s1600/07+Altar1.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94-Xn0dxfv1QdY92MiQVwGJ1ol19WLn2A2rR6Wr4QuC0C6SZlgLkqcElafW9B_JeVbmzcmCzYWDJn4iGbb0iyxIy0mS6foiHWZd_V24DKkL38FSKWjitU07PLU3h7hxNgeAIqsFtL9A8/s200/07+Altar1.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Although Avila primarily
feels like a 16<sup>th</sup> century city, it does have other history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>New since we were last there was a museum
devoted to the Vettonia culture of approximately 500 - 0 BC.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The main relic from their era and what they
are most known for are Verracos, life size and smaller granite statues of bulls
and boars scattered around the area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
current best guess is that they were boundary markers and guardians.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These Ibero-Celtic people were eventually
subdued by the Romans (Julius Caesar actually) and incorporated into the Roman
province of Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also went to the Provincial
Museum of Avila, which had archeological exhibits from Palaeolithic times and
the Visigoths, as well as the Vettones and Romans.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were even some artifacts from 19,000
BC that were found on the block between our hotel and the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Basically, everyone just skips the Moorish
era.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The museum’s exhibit on traditional
and early 20<sup>th</sup> century life in the area is quite interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is hard to remember how traditional and
remote most of Spain was until after WW2.</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2EFC9r05PXtE9g7gzEAjddtazL_b8i6-3fdM5COaB6EuBuPBMPEs_QCNteVSKeerZjejOnypfMjMCAOvrPdoSJLWCbUrN2RHvrU1n6oMAPTR-jq3RK3DB6Xz9Fw6D2RYEivE4uEMYZQA/s1600/10+Ron+and+Verraco.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2EFC9r05PXtE9g7gzEAjddtazL_b8i6-3fdM5COaB6EuBuPBMPEs_QCNteVSKeerZjejOnypfMjMCAOvrPdoSJLWCbUrN2RHvrU1n6oMAPTR-jq3RK3DB6Xz9Fw6D2RYEivE4uEMYZQA/s200/10+Ron+and+Verraco.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ron and verraco</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally, we also went to a
few 21<sup>st</sup> century exhibits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is a Center for Mysticism right outside the walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their building and exhibits try to do the
impossible and demonstrate the mystical experience through a series of small
rooms with quotations, paintings and sculptures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Saint John of the Cross is perhaps their
biggest influence, but the quotations drew from many traditions and modern
writers from around the world, and were reasonably inspiring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, most of the modern paintings and
sculptures and multi-media pieces did not inspire me with insight into the
mystic experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, it was an
interesting, but nearly impossible effort, and I gather that the Institute
hosts many ecumenical conferences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
also stopped in at a Modern Art gallery, Palacio Los Serrano, which had an
exhibit which we actually liked of paintings by an Avila resident named Daniel
Quintero – mostly portraits, but also some interestingly crooked landscapes. </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmotABDe-EGhdVA5aG_s0H-oWWFKjiDZQ45xYJ_siuVIz1RDSoberZTXo_6JooJ5CtSKj25EewVKeOJrh0L6acHJey0E4EchyIlEnIfv_ML8mIfrQYMITU5pWwlrMNerXGJ__CF2YCAA/s1600/11+Daniel+Quintero.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFmotABDe-EGhdVA5aG_s0H-oWWFKjiDZQ45xYJ_siuVIz1RDSoberZTXo_6JooJ5CtSKj25EewVKeOJrh0L6acHJey0E4EchyIlEnIfv_ML8mIfrQYMITU5pWwlrMNerXGJ__CF2YCAA/s320/11+Daniel+Quintero.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daniel Quintero</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We had three and a half
packed days in Avila.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We left by train
in the early afternoon for Madrid and then a train to Merida to the west.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Avila is on a high plain – 3700 feet – and
the train ride goes for quite a while along and down forested hills that I
remembered from our last trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
only an hour in the train station in Madrid and then on though the endless plains
of Spain to Merida, which I will write about soon!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-30496418182111435352012-11-10T14:11:00.002-08:002012-11-10T14:11:34.688-08:00France<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfSN9UgWmW540oKe3cQm0liSK20R-fn9PekxH0mr3tnF4FYQXdepR6e9wCTLMXj9mKBxSOSQJKerBM9Grkej8FtisAgXAOqx8MJhKDggTbTkYMcToDn7nGKI8PanUddeCu3b_P-FxtIcA/s1600/01+Quaker+Center+Congenies.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfSN9UgWmW540oKe3cQm0liSK20R-fn9PekxH0mr3tnF4FYQXdepR6e9wCTLMXj9mKBxSOSQJKerBM9Grkej8FtisAgXAOqx8MJhKDggTbTkYMcToDn7nGKI8PanUddeCu3b_P-FxtIcA/s200/01+Quaker+Center+Congenies.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quaker Center Congenies</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We left Darmstadt, Germany
by train on November 1 by way of Heidelberg, Karlsruhe, Strasbourg, and finally
Lyon, France, where we spent the night.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The countryside through Germany continued to be interesting and mostly
rural or forest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, about the time
we crossed over to France at Strasbourg it got dark, so we couldn’t see any more
scenery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lyon was only a convenient
place to sleep because we were really aiming for Nimes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The countryside on the second day was really
pretty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To my surprise we could see high
snow-covered Alps for quite a while.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3O_6fG6n1faNGSUIg0qI9GUqHfUlFxoDbU4tZsaemerZp0RTnDPwmHOoXMB7DeG7X68xjenzfycZSvKBAWoVww49W9FdYNm-IiJ5lKV__m9K_H0-4CGPfU45IfWwjPAl8yXxbQagByv0/s1600/02+Quaker+cemetary.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3O_6fG6n1faNGSUIg0qI9GUqHfUlFxoDbU4tZsaemerZp0RTnDPwmHOoXMB7DeG7X68xjenzfycZSvKBAWoVww49W9FdYNm-IiJ5lKV__m9K_H0-4CGPfU45IfWwjPAl8yXxbQagByv0/s200/02+Quaker+cemetary.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quaker Cemetery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">At Nimes we caught a local
bus to the village of Congenies where there is a Quaker Center with rooms to
stay in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It happened that there was a
group of pacifists, les Couflaïres, living in the area from the early 17<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They heard about Quakers in
1785 and some of them went to London to learn more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They all converted and built a Meeting House
in 1822 and there was quite a colony for a time with much visiting back and
forth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Eventually however, the group
died out and the building went into other hands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, recently the house became available
again and was repurchased by Quakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>When we went to Meeting for Worship there were about 15 people
present.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of them are British or
Americans, but there are also some French members.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are quite a few rooms to stay in, a
nice large sunny Meeting room, a large garden area, and an old cemetery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The current resident friends, Bonnie and
David, are from Greensboro, North Carolina.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We were also invited to a delightful lunch after Meeting by a local
couple along with another American couple from the Meeting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This occupied all of Sunday afternoon.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJn9UBsjDf6dKJRZ4YguGBUAPSxYl_EoZzdz880F0j6xx0KA-bV-IeMt6HBLnDId5FwScxgSBA9T440M4TeTUk9D-Xm3tkvd7eHGRjwr11_JJNWSdas3B4qwr12C7QgmuyDxLsJJNUdg/s1600/03+Congenies+town+square.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbJn9UBsjDf6dKJRZ4YguGBUAPSxYl_EoZzdz880F0j6xx0KA-bV-IeMt6HBLnDId5FwScxgSBA9T440M4TeTUk9D-Xm3tkvd7eHGRjwr11_JJNWSdas3B4qwr12C7QgmuyDxLsJJNUdg/s200/03+Congenies+town+square.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Congenies town square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Pretty much everywhere we
went was very pleasant and interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The village of Congenies has a couple of small stores which open at odd
hours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is one Catholic and one
Protestant church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked up a street
and fairly quickly got out to olive trees and small walled fields and scrub
land.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The houses in town are all of
thick rock with sand-colored plaster and shutters.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The roads widen and narrow through town
randomly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a 22 K bike path that
runs near the town along an old train track.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is an hourly bus that goes into Nimes (or Sommieres in the other
direction) and only costs 1.50 Euros.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Bonnie and David drove us into Sommieres on Saturday for the market,
which is a combination of flea market and food vendors stretching along the
river and into the town squares.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The old
section of town is mostly pedestrian because the streets are very narrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very medieval-feeling and also very
Mediterranean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it was also very
bustling with all the people there for the market and felt very alive and
vibrant.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPXv0pMbX75p7kX8bRPRRU-kobK6QTNK33eV1JUcIL4CiObRAAxBSRdExBq69SYKSHJ0L8YMeGzfxmlLNU7UBWesGzk8hdu9DKGyl-SSN0JWbT1PMUBOJCC4kBA11VuysQ468s7VGlWk/s1600/04+Nimes+Arena.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYPXv0pMbX75p7kX8bRPRRU-kobK6QTNK33eV1JUcIL4CiObRAAxBSRdExBq69SYKSHJ0L8YMeGzfxmlLNU7UBWesGzk8hdu9DKGyl-SSN0JWbT1PMUBOJCC4kBA11VuysQ468s7VGlWk/s640/04+Nimes+Arena.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nimes Arena (Roman Amphitheater</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMzTdPEd5JjszbXtvjQgY7DSPcS1X7A-0zHrTX-W8VXld2OjJ0PXCYvNkoZ2UWasw_L6AoJqEDr7EhblkCGP0_utu5Y2OabgljFkmmxld2Sbkmp3MKD71YequFZiHbfn86DPDvdO-yFk/s1600/05+Alez+in+the+Arena.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjMzTdPEd5JjszbXtvjQgY7DSPcS1X7A-0zHrTX-W8VXld2OjJ0PXCYvNkoZ2UWasw_L6AoJqEDr7EhblkCGP0_utu5Y2OabgljFkmmxld2Sbkmp3MKD71YequFZiHbfn86DPDvdO-yFk/s200/05+Alez+in+the+Arena.jpg" width="200" /></a>Nimes is an interesting
city with a number of Roman ruins.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
Arena, a smaller version of the Roman Coliseum, dominates the town square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is said to be the best preserved
amphitheater remaining and it is still used for bull fights and rock
concerts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also an almost
perfect temple to Augustus, or rather it was dedicated to his two grandsons and
heirs (until they mysteriously died).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Nimes is named after the god Nemausus of the spring in the town, and the
garden where the spring is looks very Roman and imperial but is mostly 19<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEgHtZFJaJAPtz_6FiHYLEzMSAVlbCYJS_ceX8A5xf_5nrjvmXa5tceVeZsvirvF-iFMFQonac-v-KXw1PKgh1FgnoFJeim4NX_EsPTl_L0-UmAIDcixaJR688ZHT9ydLPRrlUv9i3pms/s1600/06+Bread+and+Circuses.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEgHtZFJaJAPtz_6FiHYLEzMSAVlbCYJS_ceX8A5xf_5nrjvmXa5tceVeZsvirvF-iFMFQonac-v-KXw1PKgh1FgnoFJeim4NX_EsPTl_L0-UmAIDcixaJR688ZHT9ydLPRrlUv9i3pms/s200/06+Bread+and+Circuses.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>There is one authentic Roman
temple there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though there was a
good water source in town, the Romans used so much water for their baths that
they, of course, built 19 miles of aqueduct as soon as they started to populate
the town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Plots of land were given to
veterans of the legion which defeated Anthony and Cleopatra, so the town symbol
is a crocodile chained to a palm tree. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLHxXLKkPSeFszR9awY2Qf8vSxDiduruMw1Pd134YDNNOvgyuM1c5SZh2A9FRMd6nhiMwoPpRp5QqtyUpfoH5UTdoo-K8ncW5LUTQn-0bjccSlergk7aGk2GtHT-ny4ZFpUGoNG6RrAQk/s1600/07+Roman+temple+in+Nimes.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLHxXLKkPSeFszR9awY2Qf8vSxDiduruMw1Pd134YDNNOvgyuM1c5SZh2A9FRMd6nhiMwoPpRp5QqtyUpfoH5UTdoo-K8ncW5LUTQn-0bjccSlergk7aGk2GtHT-ny4ZFpUGoNG6RrAQk/s200/07+Roman+temple+in+Nimes.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nimes' Roman Temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Even without the Roman remains,
the town is a delight to walk in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
old city is again mostly pedestrian because the streets are very narrow.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They randomly open onto little plazas with
tables and chairs set out for the cafes and restaurants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The streets were filled with lots of
shoppers, and Nimes also felt like a very modern and busy city, which spreads
out far from the old center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Unfortunately, in general France is a terrible place to try to eat in if
you are vegetarian, but we managed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is also amusing to me that most places give you no choice about what wine to
drink besides red, white or rose, and sometimes the local wine that they served
was not all that good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was usually
more choice among the beers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In Germany
most places had at least a page listing all the wine choices.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also saw a lot less variety in ethnic
cuisines, at least in this area of France.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-HmdK7vqcjhjsT1MlSm68oQhaSuSt1UA_abN7Bpg5L_62FLUniio69VJ1IGA_yGVnvk2yGreet8iSei2sHRGQmc2dK4ysiOYaXNuhSBn7ZW1Qey7LtpcwXERRnZKsghXQCe_XB1osSM/s1600/08+Pont+de+Gard.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF-HmdK7vqcjhjsT1MlSm68oQhaSuSt1UA_abN7Bpg5L_62FLUniio69VJ1IGA_yGVnvk2yGreet8iSei2sHRGQmc2dK4ysiOYaXNuhSBn7ZW1Qey7LtpcwXERRnZKsghXQCe_XB1osSM/s200/08+Pont+de+Gard.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pont de Gard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also took a day
excursion out to the Pont de Gard, which is near the beginning of the Nimes
aqueduct.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a magnificent structure,
of course, over the Gard River with 3 tiers of arches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has been well preserved probably partly
because it is far out in the middle of nowhere and also because the water
system continued to work for a couple of hundred years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also an archeological dig there in a
big cave that has prehistoric remains from 20, 000 years ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was not a lot of information posted
yet, but we could watch the people working.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is also a good museum with lots of information about Romans and
their water use and technology. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqmuWLvpY0HAh1j04H_py2SXSzWZqbb6UMUym-HG1yBtp8TIMyvrPGluWpoospBOY4AvjA9fMaD-5vYfRLGWeqD5wRtPsgDOzn8Gi1PepYRqHMtpbAh1cCgd7aR4GrqWlfHnRTjHNeWvI/s1600/09+Archeological+dig.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqmuWLvpY0HAh1j04H_py2SXSzWZqbb6UMUym-HG1yBtp8TIMyvrPGluWpoospBOY4AvjA9fMaD-5vYfRLGWeqD5wRtPsgDOzn8Gi1PepYRqHMtpbAh1cCgd7aR4GrqWlfHnRTjHNeWvI/s200/09+Archeological+dig.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Archeological dig</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We really liked Southern
France.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The countryside is pleasant and
almost every village and town looked like it would be fun to spend time
in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a lot that we didn’t see,
but after 5 days we decided to continue on to Spain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We decided to avoid Barcelona for the moment,
and so we took a train from Nimes to Toulouse and then to Bayonne on the
Atlantic coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From Nimes to Narbonne,
we could catch glimpses of the Mediterranean, and from Toulouse onward we could
often see snowcapped Pyrenees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lourdes was
the train stop closest to the mountains.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdCyPLKz-s7Q_iGwxzm4rlpPy8Qgtt5j2udXSvvhJ-OlL2j7-tWtj8u3SYT-c-Yh4fNbCk-ZFYr98BrPsYXsNt1n4cIa-CwwQpwbOkgYnbRK3H9dNYPGm6t3oooqCUxXv0fVkL9aWYh8/s1600/10+Bayonne.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdCyPLKz-s7Q_iGwxzm4rlpPy8Qgtt5j2udXSvvhJ-OlL2j7-tWtj8u3SYT-c-Yh4fNbCk-ZFYr98BrPsYXsNt1n4cIa-CwwQpwbOkgYnbRK3H9dNYPGm6t3oooqCUxXv0fVkL9aWYh8/s200/10+Bayonne.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bayonne</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Although we were basically only in Bayonne for one evening and one
morning in order to catch a train into Spain, we really enjoyed walking around
the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is in the French Basque
country, and we could get a little flavor of that culture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The architecture was more French than
Mediterranean with iron work balconies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The roads in the old town were still narrow and pedestrian.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It confirmed the thought that everywhere is picturesque.</span></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-34735247545778940532012-11-09T10:08:00.000-08:002012-11-09T13:19:15.083-08:00Darmstadt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglnTBFtBIafsS_n1XlHwiYmPYnnPS9Fd9jbSxHdFfdRonIgfMfWrPhI2Iij-5kvd9LU6t5qCr8iHBHE9-WTApZLpLYMCQRibqnfoel5el-cNrsQdDAzKEuVvZtDcMVUIIo8Pume8tNCjc/s1600/06+Altheimkirch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmq0UB_kQ5772pnVk5og5bHOsVUP_KEzEr-bGqbyotxBbagtpPZZjmmRiQ_2CrnEE1ycKSWiCf-DXvXIbkDb2B510zUANx3ceLWH0r0Ke9_gxwiN4kNQ_FA7Gr5NVw2n4mgf6QulA298/s1600/01+Cousins+in+Frankfurt.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmq0UB_kQ5772pnVk5og5bHOsVUP_KEzEr-bGqbyotxBbagtpPZZjmmRiQ_2CrnEE1ycKSWiCf-DXvXIbkDb2B510zUANx3ceLWH0r0Ke9_gxwiN4kNQ_FA7Gr5NVw2n4mgf6QulA298/s200/01+Cousins+in+Frankfurt.jpg" width="131" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cousins in Frankfurt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On Friday, October 26, we
took the train from Munich to Darmstadt, a city near Frankfurt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron has been here a number of times because
his ancestors come from this area of Germany, but this is my first time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron has two distant cousins here whom he has
met and stays in email contact with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They hosted and fed us often during our stay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, on our first night, we ended up
being on our own, so we used the opportunity to go to the Opera – The Tales of
Hoffman by Offenbach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Staatstheater
is a very nice modern building and the Opera is very reasonably priced.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is not an opera I was familiar with, but
I enjoyed the music and production very much.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLS2p8hLqmUqe-qy70pdHZ0vanYWFVlFDSpcoDJV6RRo0olnWesugZVzsLCmH0CjFMolGG5AgQNTzGAIMeml7RJ_vJtu0kqWrxIFLHpDTX4Se00Ambx5sLICYOzbtSoxRkWWkRCrApWE/s1600/02+Waldspirale.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNLS2p8hLqmUqe-qy70pdHZ0vanYWFVlFDSpcoDJV6RRo0olnWesugZVzsLCmH0CjFMolGG5AgQNTzGAIMeml7RJ_vJtu0kqWrxIFLHpDTX4Se00Ambx5sLICYOzbtSoxRkWWkRCrApWE/s200/02+Waldspirale.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waldspirale</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Saturday we woke up to
snow falling – quite unexpected as the previous weather had been pleasantly
mild.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Nonetheless our cousin Andi and
his wife Akiko showed up and we did a walking tour of Darmstadt, which is a
pleasant small city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its claim to fame
is as a center of the Jugendstil movement, the German branch of Art Nouveau,
because of its arts colony called Matildenhoehe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was an interesting exhibit at the
Museum Kuenstlerkolonie about the movement, and there are a number of houses in
the area built in that style around the beginning of the 20<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also a Russian
Orthodox church built there for the wedding of Nicholas II of Russia to
Alexandra of Hesse.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This couple and
their children met an unfortunate end after the Russian Revolution of 1917.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later we also saw the Waldspirale, an avant-garde
apartment building by Friedensreich Hundertwasser, a modern architect, in 2000.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_HF9Bb7QMFjUXNvtQw_kjOyvfCldsA2atFv8tWoityOliV852bWERemyAQE7jq3QEbQJixc8gmaV5R1MKL7u8JcjvQLsoWSs2h2FHzb5A1I7KmV3fe5WgQTSABkyL0hzhzi0VvDV6-Q/s1600/04+Prisoner+of+Love.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY_HF9Bb7QMFjUXNvtQw_kjOyvfCldsA2atFv8tWoityOliV852bWERemyAQE7jq3QEbQJixc8gmaV5R1MKL7u8JcjvQLsoWSs2h2FHzb5A1I7KmV3fe5WgQTSABkyL0hzhzi0VvDV6-Q/s200/04+Prisoner+of+Love.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">True love</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Andi and Akiko also took
us into Frankfurt the next day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
walked across an iron pedestrian bridge over the Main River which I was amazed
to see had hundreds, possibly thousands of locks attached to it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had recently read that this is a new fad
based on a scene in a best-selling young adult novel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A couple in love has their initials engraved
on a lock; then you affix the lock to a bridge and toss the key into the river,
and your love will last forever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some
towns are disturbed by their historic bridges being defaced, not so much by the
locks but by the graffiti of disgruntled lovers after it turns out not to be
true eternal love.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn’t see any
graffiti on the bridge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALzQODoWF_Jome-AZEnBVM3CNXXSutnUJD_J1DjR4mCWe1PVxtlu899YpK9lMbtktKrcFc7lMdAnKDZi-U_IUZMZAgsSLHWZcZAHpeUqrRtm2mTEEZpp-w41qcAn8oXKEhCMPlyvEmtc/s1600/03+Goethehaus.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiALzQODoWF_Jome-AZEnBVM3CNXXSutnUJD_J1DjR4mCWe1PVxtlu899YpK9lMbtktKrcFc7lMdAnKDZi-U_IUZMZAgsSLHWZcZAHpeUqrRtm2mTEEZpp-w41qcAn8oXKEhCMPlyvEmtc/s200/03+Goethehaus.jpg" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goethehaus</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The main attraction of our
walk around Frankfurt was a visit to the Goethe house, where he was born and
grew up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The actual house was destroyed
during the war but rebuilt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Goethe’s
parents were well to do, and the house was a well done re-creation of their
life style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My favorite piece was a
large Grandfather clock that included an image of a man with a dancing
bear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the clock needs to be
rewound, the bear falls over on its back.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmL9LaaUzdtRE8wyZeJ3oo-o06pzoRUABBajsH31AZkviXIQM8FuKgOszGJ-jf7JQcdkXBRBjXfr8dGBYICwk6BUMJqdkNstD3U54uhJW9IesF8uIup05fRgucQISkdWa1Ze9-ZCn0QpM/s1600/05+1806+Wetteroth+Haus.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmL9LaaUzdtRE8wyZeJ3oo-o06pzoRUABBajsH31AZkviXIQM8FuKgOszGJ-jf7JQcdkXBRBjXfr8dGBYICwk6BUMJqdkNstD3U54uhJW9IesF8uIup05fRgucQISkdWa1Ze9-ZCn0QpM/s200/05+1806+Wetteroth+Haus.jpg" width="161" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1806 Wetteroth house</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">That afternoon we had tea
at the house of Ron’s other cousin Sabine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>On a different day Sabine took us to some town archives to do further
research on some of the ancestors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On
our own, we also went out to the outlying villages of Greisheim, Babenhausen
and Altheim, where various Wetteroths had lived and worked since at least 1725.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron had seen all these places before, but
they were new to me, and I very much enjoyed them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the houses are built in a half-timbered
style, and some of the towns are very quaint with narrow streets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The countryside is pleasantly rural.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglnTBFtBIafsS_n1XlHwiYmPYnnPS9Fd9jbSxHdFfdRonIgfMfWrPhI2Iij-5kvd9LU6t5qCr8iHBHE9-WTApZLpLYMCQRibqnfoel5el-cNrsQdDAzKEuVvZtDcMVUIIo8Pume8tNCjc/s200/06+Altheimkirch.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="149" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Altheimkirche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">I have enjoyed Germany.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, we took the snow and the subsequent
cold weather as a sign that it was time to head south rather than stay in
Middle Europe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our next stop is the South
of France where there is a Quaker Center near Nimes. </span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-11971364073720492392012-11-02T02:49:00.000-07:002012-11-02T02:49:00.259-07:00Munich<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjryxEus5_KdgHyoZOPUwXqOn1ewinlotbGlkW8yuVX7Bv-N9X9TvGWTzh7Dhyphenhyphen0jwWG01x8HnTbXfyy4zxh7WSu0iOjn_XkHg7nPUTUwaxs_HUXGXMvft2rA_p4pXbj7Y-vy7vFVbopsiE/s1600/01+Apartment+view.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjryxEus5_KdgHyoZOPUwXqOn1ewinlotbGlkW8yuVX7Bv-N9X9TvGWTzh7Dhyphenhyphen0jwWG01x8HnTbXfyy4zxh7WSu0iOjn_XkHg7nPUTUwaxs_HUXGXMvft2rA_p4pXbj7Y-vy7vFVbopsiE/s200/01+Apartment+view.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our apartment</td></tr>
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<br />
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On Saturday, October 20,
we left Vienna by train about 10 a.m. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to
go to Munich for a week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Typically for
our excursions, the day was overcast, even occasionally rainy, and the
visibility not good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, eventually
the weather did clear up, so that by the time we reached Salzburg, the day was
sunny, and we could get a good view of the mountains and lakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We arrived in Munich in the mid afternoon and
our new landlady kindly met us at the train station.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our new apartment is only a few blocks walk
from the station on the fourth floor – with lift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a much smaller apartment compared to
Vienna, but has large windows overlooking an interior </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6ebMTpJP-hcCwCQNjStXYvlkz-5v52GPLMABKxr4HEmBc3lp3rOYua452asl4yQmT24nMsLJuX3Oc3tQANxdf2x8oXx6TmB8IfbgHUI96INHd7qpjbtF118wXxYjHDYwFmqEn9Tpjck/s1600/02+Linderhof+Palace.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6ebMTpJP-hcCwCQNjStXYvlkz-5v52GPLMABKxr4HEmBc3lp3rOYua452asl4yQmT24nMsLJuX3Oc3tQANxdf2x8oXx6TmB8IfbgHUI96INHd7qpjbtF118wXxYjHDYwFmqEn9Tpjck/s200/02+Linderhof+Palace.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linderhof Palace</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">courtyard with a mural on
the opposite wall to make the view more interesting!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This area of town is a little edgy – lots of
casinos and strip clubs, but there are museums within a half mile and the town
center.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, our first evening we
walked into the town center, which is pedestrian only.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lots and lots of people out shopping and
milling about and either pushy or oblivious.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There is the cathedral and other churches and the Rathaus (town hall)
very neo-gothic and ornate.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdPb2iAkxYoKj5IJ1Ub6-JgU7VfVBJD7s6n2pcFqvYgVgj0XAIORa2aUWiNwRyzpqpKLsnGNN5HyNkQ-gU4hg47N9T074pVSlaQrlxiZWnS-35jkFjG8V2Iceqqh3GZrJf65tm4hEuUw/s1600/03+Linderhof+Garden.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEdPb2iAkxYoKj5IJ1Ub6-JgU7VfVBJD7s6n2pcFqvYgVgj0XAIORa2aUWiNwRyzpqpKLsnGNN5HyNkQ-gU4hg47N9T074pVSlaQrlxiZWnS-35jkFjG8V2Iceqqh3GZrJf65tm4hEuUw/s200/03+Linderhof+Garden.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Linderhof garden</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Sunday morning we went to
Meeting for Worship, which was in a Lutheran Church social room about 6 blocks
from our apartment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were only 5
other people besides us because a number of regulars were at Yearly Meeting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>None the less, the meeting is usually under a
dozen people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since it is so small, they
have the nice habit of spending an extra hour or so with Worship Sharing, so we
got to know them fairly well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The area near
the Meeting is also where a number of the art museums are, so after lunch we
went to the Neue Pinakothek, which is newer because it has 19<sup>th</sup> and
20<sup>th</sup> century works.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw a
lot of older works until we finally came to the last 2-3 rooms with a number of
Van Gogh, Manet, Cezanne, and Rodins that were quite lovely.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYq-vc64nBnDDA4kAh2mynk9YXoCq6bdHNJpKoUumWpbMimZv509Eq3qTtAAlMU0OCCzgr1HnFgmrA8lbTeVrarp1RHsnI_lhFdhkdAxTzp9Qk5o9kSTC0_rC3FMKXlvvZ4FjGyV7rrE/s1600/04+Oberammergau.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMYq-vc64nBnDDA4kAh2mynk9YXoCq6bdHNJpKoUumWpbMimZv509Eq3qTtAAlMU0OCCzgr1HnFgmrA8lbTeVrarp1RHsnI_lhFdhkdAxTzp9Qk5o9kSTC0_rC3FMKXlvvZ4FjGyV7rrE/s200/04+Oberammergau.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oberammergau</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The absolute high point of
the week was a bus tour out to King Ludwig’s castle of Neuschwanstein.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Once again, the day started out overcast,
almost foggy, but as we climbed into the mountains, we got above the
clouds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our first stop was the mountain
retreat palace of Linderhof, a comparatively small but amazingly ornate
lodge.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ludwig frequently did not like
people around him, so his dining room table was on a piece of floor which could
sink down to the kitchen, be set with all the food, and then raised back into
his dining room.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the rooms was
octagonal and had mirrors on all the walls, </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7TyDIUC_oNHrPqiU-JMnZ2HyTxM3B_gq_53dMMKHOaj6g19HOSmMjrdxVZsaQwZy7FWkMgt_JI-bJvTZ-A7wCd2FRVdxO4SNiH_z1MzYWI6ZUn6Z-dnCegIhKBF3zhX2DV_rWbSa1_g/s1600/05+Hohenschwngau.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7TyDIUC_oNHrPqiU-JMnZ2HyTxM3B_gq_53dMMKHOaj6g19HOSmMjrdxVZsaQwZy7FWkMgt_JI-bJvTZ-A7wCd2FRVdxO4SNiH_z1MzYWI6ZUn6Z-dnCegIhKBF3zhX2DV_rWbSa1_g/s200/05+Hohenschwngau.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hohenschwangau Palace</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">so the room seemed to stretch out
to infinity in all directions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is
something of a peacock motif, and 2 large porcelain peacocks were placed
outside the entrance when </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">the King was in residence. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then had an hour’s stop in Oberammergau,
where the once a decade Passion Play is held.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It has many shops with carved wood and other souvenirs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the houses are painted with scenes
and designs on their exterior, a common practice in Bavaria to show of your
wealth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All through this area we were
passing along high, craggy Alps.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_FXkRh4tnSJOz0GxXd_Gi4k9kJ1_0EDkY9_Hz17qncabkmzf2ewWptEKbswugVTK1uuXAsHi1WW55GVJGLYqjfYQiZ6KK7DlutBD7VLBHD4GmtJ4ngjjUAg7h_-Q3HfIh5GKvPKQGw4/s1600/06+Neuschwanstein+from+bridge.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="145" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1_FXkRh4tnSJOz0GxXd_Gi4k9kJ1_0EDkY9_Hz17qncabkmzf2ewWptEKbswugVTK1uuXAsHi1WW55GVJGLYqjfYQiZ6KK7DlutBD7VLBHD4GmtJ4ngjjUAg7h_-Q3HfIh5GKvPKQGw4/s200/06+Neuschwanstein+from+bridge.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neuschwanstein Castle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally we got to
Neuschwanstein.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For me it is really the
setting itself which is the most moving, almost whether there were a castle
there or not.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a little alpine
lake, a larger lake, many craggy peaks, and a wide plain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To top it off, there were beautiful fall
colors on the trees.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We elected to take
a shuttle bus up the mountain rather than walk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The bus lets you off so that you can walk to a marvelous bridge
(Mariabroecke) which spans high over a gorge with waterfalls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bridge overlooks the castle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is all just incredibly gorgeous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The castle itself was not completed because
of Ludwig’s </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1qc0TDSsPNrXrhZfCdm6V72Q6OWTmavpbw8Lvck51VuqBgeAi7Mimk9kkIQtbShBooLm_wzw3Tuw_wZXvah9ECWm7RD62aio02_gvfSY3NFkhmrb3Ew2XR-nLcHW58lMW8fJBiJwbaPQ/s1600/07+Gorge.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1qc0TDSsPNrXrhZfCdm6V72Q6OWTmavpbw8Lvck51VuqBgeAi7Mimk9kkIQtbShBooLm_wzw3Tuw_wZXvah9ECWm7RD62aio02_gvfSY3NFkhmrb3Ew2XR-nLcHW58lMW8fJBiJwbaPQ/s200/07+Gorge.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View into gorge from bridge</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">death, but the parts that are complete are on view.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I guess because of the large number of
tourists, the tours are timed and quite regimented, and you can’t take pictures
inside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You do not have time to look at
the many paintings on the wall, all of which are based on various German myths,
most of which were turned into Wagnerian operas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The palace is an homage to Wagner, although
he never got there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He did, however,
often visit the palace of Ludwig’s parents, Hohenschwangau, which is in the
village below Neuschwanstein, and is where Ludwig mostly grew up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We bought a book about the castle in the gift
store which gives us a good look at the paintings.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzi5qjmnGlbS0H6OzLmJyvG3tGnYR2Reyvkx6A7DeSITC8o0az0-J-6eD2y_8o0b_GootVFsYKVthn-v3UygVZrnM2rM-BsnSvA-fQAhk89tmYlJyDBQ58MhVExVrH6SpDp4A8gMX8R8/s1600/08+view.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVzi5qjmnGlbS0H6OzLmJyvG3tGnYR2Reyvkx6A7DeSITC8o0az0-J-6eD2y_8o0b_GootVFsYKVthn-v3UygVZrnM2rM-BsnSvA-fQAhk89tmYlJyDBQ58MhVExVrH6SpDp4A8gMX8R8/s200/08+view.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the views from castle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Tuesday, back in Munich,
we went to the Alte Pinakothek, which is the old art museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was pretty overwhelming after a
while.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were Jan Brueghel and Peter
Brueghel, Lucas Cranach and Hieronymus Bosch, Albrecht Durer, Da Vinci, Raphael,
Van Dyke, Rembrandt, and Canaletto.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
museum particularly favored Peter Paul Rubens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>His monumental <u>The Last Judgment</u> has pride of place in the
central gallery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The piece is so large –
6 meters tall – that the room was especially built to house that painting.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJyiMcTkPcaaTEDrcb1ODoaC6J18WukQ8oTlR4v1lqxN0k5JX79QY10M2hCo1lXIDTaFN8wc4nSnTM6U-sYmGUyMbbut9Fohto2rATwKkx0_ACVvnypK87CFxwexHiSgoOwNTBAaGFBw/s1600/09+Neuschwanstein.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="80" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOJyiMcTkPcaaTEDrcb1ODoaC6J18WukQ8oTlR4v1lqxN0k5JX79QY10M2hCo1lXIDTaFN8wc4nSnTM6U-sYmGUyMbbut9Fohto2rATwKkx0_ACVvnypK87CFxwexHiSgoOwNTBAaGFBw/s200/09+Neuschwanstein.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front of the castle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Wednesday we went to the
Deutches Museum, which is their museum of Science and Industry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, we probably tried to see too
much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We enjoyed their display of
sailing vessels (or models) of different types, cultures and eras.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Actually there were modern, non-sailing
vessels also.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also had a beautiful
exhibit of musical instruments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After
lunch we took a tram over to the “English” Gardens, which is the </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKHzX69bYm2Phg-05xE4RE8khemwjL-X9sCrwMQi0NKF7_n4JVsoYp_ad7a15tY-bQtFM31zJ6GSrd-D3DO9dfS74EHT0VcREnDxXr8Y5nsS_Br1B-7oLvsLjAAmpw1DIQTiI5bY-_qKU/s1600/10+Rathaus.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKHzX69bYm2Phg-05xE4RE8khemwjL-X9sCrwMQi0NKF7_n4JVsoYp_ad7a15tY-bQtFM31zJ6GSrd-D3DO9dfS74EHT0VcREnDxXr8Y5nsS_Br1B-7oLvsLjAAmpw1DIQTiI5bY-_qKU/s200/10+Rathaus.jpg" width="145" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rathaus</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">main city
park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>English tends to mean
naturalistic, with winding paths through woods, rather than French, which
straight walks through formal gardens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We then took the tram back into the city center, looking into various
churches, including the main Cathedral, which is huge and very gothic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Almost everything was destroyed in part or
whole during the war, and it is interesting how much was rebuilt to look the
same as before the war, particularly because many of the churches had already
been rebuilt 2 or 3 times since maybe the 12<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were lucky to chance to be in the main
square at 5 o’clock when the clock strikes in the Rathaus tower.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First a </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoBCFPvYh5323n1BZhvgTpJ52O0TIdup_HugnxQ5Ng3KJOkRiQs7LqlZg1tggWRK6xvPSShcsr5nqPbSPOvbgswrML6o3y3PitNInNfqEDpMXDVuk1P5M0uxuq_rwRE19dhRdb_b4XpoM/s1600/11+Rathaus+joust.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoBCFPvYh5323n1BZhvgTpJ52O0TIdup_HugnxQ5Ng3KJOkRiQs7LqlZg1tggWRK6xvPSShcsr5nqPbSPOvbgswrML6o3y3PitNInNfqEDpMXDVuk1P5M0uxuq_rwRE19dhRdb_b4XpoM/s200/11+Rathaus+joust.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clockwork joust</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">circle of peasant dancers went around
twice and then on the level below a set of knights jousted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second time around one of the knights
tumbled over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All this time, of course,
there is a great peal of bells.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJDeTexM2TAPkX8dEKsFk7C7GEp5KHQGNiPrdEfofu8PJeoScmsJ3bzmEknZpNJSTp-35sGi1dPo4GFeiMs3NLVzlbboZP_fYn-NuTTon-vk4HavYEmU_rBwigHBL58QyzVx0X-X72OVo/s1600/12+Nymphenburg.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJDeTexM2TAPkX8dEKsFk7C7GEp5KHQGNiPrdEfofu8PJeoScmsJ3bzmEknZpNJSTp-35sGi1dPo4GFeiMs3NLVzlbboZP_fYn-NuTTon-vk4HavYEmU_rBwigHBL58QyzVx0X-X72OVo/s640/12+Nymphenburg.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not even the full panorama of Nymphemburg Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSWLRsBQbV9EG46e61RkhPxOL-104MD6wUynccngBsqHHXWWEBoYZwtOgIpDrBc2cFv6lnzzJxouQP29dhjOuIo3M45ZDBp8aON5i_BcCXzFJzt3fvWOaX3gVXSuwBXSc2pSK1YRxl-zE/s1600/13+Nymphenburg+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSWLRsBQbV9EG46e61RkhPxOL-104MD6wUynccngBsqHHXWWEBoYZwtOgIpDrBc2cFv6lnzzJxouQP29dhjOuIo3M45ZDBp8aON5i_BcCXzFJzt3fvWOaX3gVXSuwBXSc2pSK1YRxl-zE/s200/13+Nymphenburg+2.jpg" width="151" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to palace</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Thursday, our last day, we
took a tram out to the Nymphenburg Palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This was mostly occupied by rulers a couple of generations before the
famous King Ludwig, but they were pretty odd in their own way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a typical palace, enlarged many times
with a huge garden and hunting grounds around it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Folks used to boat around on gondolas in the
basins and canals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a summer
palace and one of the expansions was to please the queen, who named it
Nymphenburg, because she envisioned herself out there surrounded by maids and
children.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later one of the kings created
a Hall of Beauty with 36 portraits of some of the most beautiful women he could
find.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m not sure if his queen was
included.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKnEUwY9rpFe-mgadtVBrHSzph5hTCsA0vhvKJ8gM07m2rWmBV-leG8x8cV8_LKzFj5u2K-kiBH0F6ZhNYDbG_obW1U7MzAM-gFHaHk5cGRPrqkEMzpvVPWUT0hJW9uNfxbPvTPtSsI8/s1600/14+Hall+of+Beauties.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibKnEUwY9rpFe-mgadtVBrHSzph5hTCsA0vhvKJ8gM07m2rWmBV-leG8x8cV8_LKzFj5u2K-kiBH0F6ZhNYDbG_obW1U7MzAM-gFHaHk5cGRPrqkEMzpvVPWUT0hJW9uNfxbPvTPtSsI8/s320/14+Hall+of+Beauties.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hall of Beauties</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We enjoyed our five days
in Munich, and we think that we could enjoy more of the Bavarian countryside
and Alps, but don’t feel compelled to return to Munich.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On Friday October 26, we boarded the train
to Darmstadt, a city in Hessen near Frankfurt where the Wetteroth ancestors are
from.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
<br /><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-62160367716123436512012-10-26T02:41:00.001-07:002012-10-26T02:45:29.930-07:00Vienna week 4<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our apartment house in Vienna</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">During our last week in
Vienna, we continued to go to museums.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The School for Fine Arts has their own small gallery called the
Gemalde.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their prize, at least in our
opinion, is The Last Judgment by Hieronymus Bosch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bosch much preferred painting the consequences
of sins than the joys of heaven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
a small, classically laid out gallery, and included a few works from Rembrandt
and Titian as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Almost every
painting was worth looking at, and there was a good mix of religious art, portraits,
and landscapes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDKenDTASmbW7YKMu25n51_Apbn7XQyP8tswFFQH03KFcnwF4MU_iljnucJ9LyxEmbiQ6Bms9KrmGQE8mis1ZY9xcXHA5iF7tzn0A_wPC6V0QQMsnMLWbqD6cdYPPOBcJ6jttolC3yKo/s1600/02+Venus+of+Willendorf.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDKenDTASmbW7YKMu25n51_Apbn7XQyP8tswFFQH03KFcnwF4MU_iljnucJ9LyxEmbiQ6Bms9KrmGQE8mis1ZY9xcXHA5iF7tzn0A_wPC6V0QQMsnMLWbqD6cdYPPOBcJ6jttolC3yKo/s200/02+Venus+of+Willendorf.jpg" width="158" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Venus of Millendorf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We spent an afternoon at the
Natural History Museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Primarily we
went to see the “Venus of Willendorf”, which was dug up near Krems on the
Danube. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is one of the oldest human
art works found, about 28,000 years old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> They have a number of old pieces,</span> including one on display that is about 35,000 years
old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQnpVL67_Q2DxrUwN1Qz1J3dZY9qK81-mVbZbZuvKTeFmNsgepQh5JQ3jEyfqUwSOvU6g7H_H5C0O9N3aS9YPJL-ir5ATsFX2lccciocqmjY_bhDhGls3LmAlgVoZEt9ZsGtCuJU82e6E/s1600/03+Lion+man.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQnpVL67_Q2DxrUwN1Qz1J3dZY9qK81-mVbZbZuvKTeFmNsgepQh5JQ3jEyfqUwSOvU6g7H_H5C0O9N3aS9YPJL-ir5ATsFX2lccciocqmjY_bhDhGls3LmAlgVoZEt9ZsGtCuJU82e6E/s200/03+Lion+man.jpg" width="118" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lion man</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We did not get as good a picture of
it, unfortunately, so I have included this Lion man, also about 30,000 years old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was also very
interested in their entire Paleolithic exhibit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They had a great display of stone tools showing the development of
different knapping techniques.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since I
was an anthropology student, I find this stuff really fascinating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4trcPaHumnmjOQ9C1i3unx1_tgXbOqondOgH0KPyeKP4DjO5MK8pMMI4SMAPgksA56AsdD1psUKXkcALnOR8dHZgkosnJab6NyaW1ld7Nyy5vbH1IhQguMNDLvar64ukWxxl7aYXRF0/s1600/04+Feathered+dinosaur.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF4trcPaHumnmjOQ9C1i3unx1_tgXbOqondOgH0KPyeKP4DjO5MK8pMMI4SMAPgksA56AsdD1psUKXkcALnOR8dHZgkosnJab6NyaW1ld7Nyy5vbH1IhQguMNDLvar64ukWxxl7aYXRF0/s200/04+Feathered+dinosaur.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feathered dinosaur</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We looked at rooms full of stuffed bird and
monkeys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The museum also has a couple of
rooms devoted to dinosaurs, including an animated Allosaur, which fascinated
the small children.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although the
exhibits seem old fashioned, the science seemed pretty up to date, with
information about feathered dinosaurs, and the meteor hit which precipitated
their extinction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQSYRuc6_sWMKgKJ7WIxZba6Fx3WG9tEjIKpC8jU3ELmkH32bjLPwZkG2kJYEVsPGjJS0SjwQmk3V5osOQ9KbUhmKqOfJaRNqv4uf3HwgSNfBA7c91jNTpUZ-d3FO-eB5UdviRikKA3Ik/s1600/05+Dodo.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQSYRuc6_sWMKgKJ7WIxZba6Fx3WG9tEjIKpC8jU3ELmkH32bjLPwZkG2kJYEVsPGjJS0SjwQmk3V5osOQ9KbUhmKqOfJaRNqv4uf3HwgSNfBA7c91jNTpUZ-d3FO-eB5UdviRikKA3Ik/s200/05+Dodo.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dodo (extinct)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>In another hall they
had displays about the 6 major extinction events that have characterized
evolutionary history, and said that our human caused extinction event looks
like it will rank right up there among the majors.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGuRJiFZDUfP3vWhyG3Lk1CvPsGGRQmPG3TtYzbhOgM4eo8Xd4nSPo2EszFs_Ogg1OAMIF6JUzVGChZyTu3phZStjSKPB5GhiBS8kzlfNbL0JXO_M19WAsXmxz9aSCLK6m_xg9kT8-Og/s1600/07+Folk+art+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcGuRJiFZDUfP3vWhyG3Lk1CvPsGGRQmPG3TtYzbhOgM4eo8Xd4nSPo2EszFs_Ogg1OAMIF6JUzVGChZyTu3phZStjSKPB5GhiBS8kzlfNbL0JXO_M19WAsXmxz9aSCLK6m_xg9kT8-Og/s200/07+Folk+art+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Folk art</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also went to the Folk Art
Museum, a quirky little place with furniture, wood carvings, farm implements,
fabrics, miniatures, and many other things packed into small rooms.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji9vKU8lnIJYbBbes7MXb2oBQeU0P_mpsnl1OU8lRVF1Gq-F9OYax_Vsg5V_pDbPUcSxo0BjRpjT7bt87RINHhIJUbF9gM9IQ26789M_5ZEeJgL82gX49m3ISMeshZf6T-OZTbDt2QXa4/s1600/08+Palmenhaus.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji9vKU8lnIJYbBbes7MXb2oBQeU0P_mpsnl1OU8lRVF1Gq-F9OYax_Vsg5V_pDbPUcSxo0BjRpjT7bt87RINHhIJUbF9gM9IQ26789M_5ZEeJgL82gX49m3ISMeshZf6T-OZTbDt2QXa4/s200/08+Palmenhaus.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palmenhaus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally we went to the
Leopold Museum, which features mostly modern art from the 19<sup>th</sup>
century onward.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also have an
exhibit of Klimt and Schiele, and some Cezanne and Impressionists, and a good
range of 20<sup>th</sup> century art.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
most enjoyed their exhibit of Japanese art – woodblock prints by Hokusai and
Hiroshige and brushwork paintings also.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It included some modern Japanese photography and some works by
contemporary Europeans influenced by Japan that was interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVUb5G4sjsLY8fTCbnj0JiRHPxmAl5XygERCCqUNrHrF3MfGGDn0tddOfXkb4PK86TTTq05DuLd8cRefB4GvWFBUzZ3KiZj4rELnWvaFtiCgoI1OLydzurLSzK1LJclR8LOcQLoYRL3zo/s1600/13+Konzerthaus.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVUb5G4sjsLY8fTCbnj0JiRHPxmAl5XygERCCqUNrHrF3MfGGDn0tddOfXkb4PK86TTTq05DuLd8cRefB4GvWFBUzZ3KiZj4rELnWvaFtiCgoI1OLydzurLSzK1LJclR8LOcQLoYRL3zo/s200/13+Konzerthaus.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Konzertha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We had recently seen an exhibit in Washington
of the 100 views of Fujiyama, so we had a background for looking at the
prints.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the curator’s notes was
about authorship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The artist, for
example Hokusai, would have a commission from a printer to create a set of
pictures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He would paint a scene and
then the woodcutter would tack it to the print block and cut out the painting
onto the block, thereby destroying the original work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then the printer works on the colors that go
into creating the final print.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only
Hokusai’s name actually goes on the print though!</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCclgDq1Yd0zeMxdLrOrnXXApe9fc7gKVyXuE-TPSFre9pNtzJnXR5UerJDRQaPCh3PjaSsi99WhdycT1k11PUTeXf3TFsiadJoN4oWC_q_m80KZWcZT76J9h_c9Kltmsk9G6iBeR3agc/s1600/10+Family+business+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCclgDq1Yd0zeMxdLrOrnXXApe9fc7gKVyXuE-TPSFre9pNtzJnXR5UerJDRQaPCh3PjaSsi99WhdycT1k11PUTeXf3TFsiadJoN4oWC_q_m80KZWcZT76J9h_c9Kltmsk9G6iBeR3agc/s200/10+Family+business+1.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family Irish Pub</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">For concerts this week, we
heard The Vienna Akademie Orchestra do Wagner songs with a soprano soloist, Siegfried’s
Rhine Journey, and 3 Liszt symphonic tone poems, which impressed me very
much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the Konzerthaus Grosser Saal,
we heard the Vienna Symphony Orchestra do a Schumann Piano Concerto and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bruckner’s 4th Symphony.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Both were splendid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This concert hall is impressive both with its
big concert room, but it also has 3 side rooms for smaller chamber pieces and
soloists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two of those rooms also had
performances happening at the same time.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPmfKx4UrvnPYA_9hWlW0_5cyzJ6k4nNJVYTCj4raquf7Uw6n6wJqv0a9op1Z4eys49w9GlSWFyuDa816Nqv_1TSfPz7IcNiEctChvMkN9OSe94FsyyDjfD9d6PDgoegLvpo-9oZI_FTg/s1600/09+Prater+ferris+wheel.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPmfKx4UrvnPYA_9hWlW0_5cyzJ6k4nNJVYTCj4raquf7Uw6n6wJqv0a9op1Z4eys49w9GlSWFyuDa816Nqv_1TSfPz7IcNiEctChvMkN9OSe94FsyyDjfD9d6PDgoegLvpo-9oZI_FTg/s200/09+Prater+ferris+wheel.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prater Ferris Wheel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also continued to enjoy
wandering around the city and parks, eating lunch at the Palmen Haus, which
also has wireless internet, and finding a couple of Irish pubs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have also eaten a lot of Asian food, from
India, Thailand and China.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One afternoon
we went out to the Prater, which is an amusement park that has been around for
a century; the Ferris wheel is famous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The park reminded me of one my family used to go to in Chicago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have been to St. Stephansdom, the central
cathedral, a number of times, finally getting into the main area this
week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other times they have been having
mass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We actually had a nice little
Quaker meeting for worship there on Sunday, sitting in a side chapel while mass
was going on. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF8gnV30yT3VxOlwdAUtke10avPnLsiAPxZsWBYQQWCKU6aD-eAhz4dbAVoN-A3EmkrSGN92AAhmNe-ruCigpISGri0i6YEvoC5abI5J0-JclTTJ4j5DsBHi6iZay7JTaROJ0-N5s0Z5E/s1600/11+St+Stephansdom.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF8gnV30yT3VxOlwdAUtke10avPnLsiAPxZsWBYQQWCKU6aD-eAhz4dbAVoN-A3EmkrSGN92AAhmNe-ruCigpISGri0i6YEvoC5abI5J0-JclTTJ4j5DsBHi6iZay7JTaROJ0-N5s0Z5E/s200/11+St+Stephansdom.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Stepansdom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We also finally did a tour of
the Opera House, which was quite enjoyable.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They were setting up scenery for that night’s performance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They do a different opera every night, so the
logistics of breaking down and setting up are very impressive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We could not afford to go to a performance as
only seats costing 200 euros or more were still available.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have 500 standing room tickets available
for 1-3 euros, but we don’t think we are capable of standing through an opera
any more.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTlhCE5BWV0FyHPmSg9M92Uz8d213AQPIEJHFdvXXNXQ16Gl632kILOjTDQ1yaVyi0v6Bx7d5CBsUdUwvGD3k7YS3OwEtITMAdRNFfyXo5tllV-Baxe4YE_elpGVRGLOl6UaDhNZ2Irc/s1600/12+Inside+St.+Stephansdom.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTlhCE5BWV0FyHPmSg9M92Uz8d213AQPIEJHFdvXXNXQ16Gl632kILOjTDQ1yaVyi0v6Bx7d5CBsUdUwvGD3k7YS3OwEtITMAdRNFfyXo5tllV-Baxe4YE_elpGVRGLOl6UaDhNZ2Irc/s200/12+Inside+St.+Stephansdom.jpg" width="103" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside St Stephansdom</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Opera also has its own
little museum with costumes and photographs of the last 130 years, and a little
history of each musical director.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
most famous are Gustav Mahler and Herbert von Karajan.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mahler is famous because he made everyone
take the opera performance seriously.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Before him, all the lights stayed on, people milled about talking and
eating and going in and out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He had the
doors shut and the lights turned down when the opera started.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He had to allow for intermissions though,
because people still needed to get up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The emperor thought he was taking all the fun out of going to the opera!</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPVIi77xA3E1c0Tm8DoFwwOSSCyczTxia_mklm45SL3a569dzCFFDlTY-J-Jr8khUNrW0VISYAsJrEC1SdMPl2zX5HYf3N7H9dEkCxVKUvBXTMGt33HRyYVX0tERggX0ALLzjih-tZRZ4/s1600/Alex+in+opera+costume.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPVIi77xA3E1c0Tm8DoFwwOSSCyczTxia_mklm45SL3a569dzCFFDlTY-J-Jr8khUNrW0VISYAsJrEC1SdMPl2zX5HYf3N7H9dEkCxVKUvBXTMGt33HRyYVX0tERggX0ALLzjih-tZRZ4/s200/Alex+in+opera+costume.jpg" width="115" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Opera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilgZmAEFxRy_YbGd6hH-EUeEnIrsJg52mDb7kzaPzWFCz4DAq5FUApwgrjA1L6ZSlUQWl35fEDorIkQGwEeyIU-elhsIGqwmhtTphcDEeRGVcH1PDGb8Hj250MIYWpZ8ZyBJpLJ-w5mZI/s1600/Ron+in+opera+costume.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilgZmAEFxRy_YbGd6hH-EUeEnIrsJg52mDb7kzaPzWFCz4DAq5FUApwgrjA1L6ZSlUQWl35fEDorIkQGwEeyIU-elhsIGqwmhtTphcDEeRGVcH1PDGb8Hj250MIYWpZ8ZyBJpLJ-w5mZI/s200/Ron+in+opera+costume.jpg" width="127" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the Opera</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">On Saturday October 20, we
left Vienna and took the train to Munich to stay for a week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could easily go back to Vienna and Austria
in the future, if possible.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> </span>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-22769230601185024972012-10-19T03:43:00.003-07:002012-10-19T03:43:31.607-07:00Vienna Week Three<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTXPyY_2GKOCbrZOC71MedFwRwv5mFVyYZf6kB45xktIUiWA4d3UoimeGNtI9d_gw2TuDuu3MqYbuHm5yI03dFJHwCQ-Det1F3Qz4MNuZ8KTN04ZA0sCZFXdPMPt2MQFAlyHrEqHy69k/s1600/01+Beethoven+Mozart+Schubert.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTXPyY_2GKOCbrZOC71MedFwRwv5mFVyYZf6kB45xktIUiWA4d3UoimeGNtI9d_gw2TuDuu3MqYbuHm5yI03dFJHwCQ-Det1F3Qz4MNuZ8KTN04ZA0sCZFXdPMPt2MQFAlyHrEqHy69k/s320/01+Beethoven+Mozart+Schubert.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beethoven, Mozart & Shubert</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We have continued our
pilgrimages to the graves and monuments of composers and other famous
Viennese.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This post opens with monuments
to Beethoven, Mozart and Shubert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the
same part of the city cemetery are graves for Brahms and three Strausses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The golden Johann Straus is in the City
Park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WPk7-rgH-7k-vlkP8zRygqkIMCbMmbnVYIjLqJFpVMRISF9wABPtAIdcwFinF8aPYcuF_lQ8JvkdX1MZup1oMT2AJlCxxMxMfdsjGItoomgtN1o36h5U5t5JGUwAICGjb0ULE-zC1lI/s1600/02+Strauss+in+Stadtpark+2.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6WPk7-rgH-7k-vlkP8zRygqkIMCbMmbnVYIjLqJFpVMRISF9wABPtAIdcwFinF8aPYcuF_lQ8JvkdX1MZup1oMT2AJlCxxMxMfdsjGItoomgtN1o36h5U5t5JGUwAICGjb0ULE-zC1lI/s200/02+Strauss+in+Stadtpark+2.jpg" width="128" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Johann Struass</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We have started going to art
museums, of which there are many in Vienna.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We began with the Kunsthistorische (Kunst = art), which is part of a
grand museum district.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A great deal of
the fun of these museums is the building itself – great monumental affairs with
high ornate ceilings, marble columns, magnificent staircases, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Kunsthistorische has a large frieze
around the top of its stairwell created by Gustav Klimt, among others,
representing the different areas and time periods of art, such as ancient Egypt
or Renaissance Italy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjof5laYJBQ4J83AXHU8_QFHdRhhHXBsfZLEbmlTBQPyxVoObTC6cEWubHHo-fO_ViRkbvnv3c__haQCvWIotMSW-vY9mjfhWfLdpjZwSIDoeGbcTunRYJCK7gys5NgwbKpOBXavPMZ1Mc/s1600/03+Theseus+and+Centaur.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjof5laYJBQ4J83AXHU8_QFHdRhhHXBsfZLEbmlTBQPyxVoObTC6cEWubHHo-fO_ViRkbvnv3c__haQCvWIotMSW-vY9mjfhWfLdpjZwSIDoeGbcTunRYJCK7gys5NgwbKpOBXavPMZ1Mc/s200/03+Theseus+and+Centaur.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Theseus & Centaur</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">This is the 150<sup>th</sup>
anniversary year of Klimt’s birth, so there is a city wide emphasis on his
work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In order to make it easier to view
the frieze, they have created an eye level platform along the section he
painted, so that was interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
also good that a hundred years ago they were supporting contemporary artists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also has a statue of Theseus fighting a
Centaur that was originally made for the Theseus Temple. </span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The museum has a wide variety
of European art, including a good selection of Breughel; the most well-known is
the Tower of Babel, but also winter scenes, weddings, fairs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0scxrQr7KgFC9JbC_7r0pzutR0fbCa1zutwppMIiVtRiJB1RbBn0g0mAyShKiPt0ntPYL29E5CKfkBjtI9AnxwNgPzaxup-M0UqvmxhhVm_bijs3C-tJ6RaP-qW7cACwGsV4wEtXMUw/s1600/04+Cafe+in+Kunsthistorische.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0scxrQr7KgFC9JbC_7r0pzutR0fbCa1zutwppMIiVtRiJB1RbBn0g0mAyShKiPt0ntPYL29E5CKfkBjtI9AnxwNgPzaxup-M0UqvmxhhVm_bijs3C-tJ6RaP-qW7cACwGsV4wEtXMUw/s200/04+Cafe+in+Kunsthistorische.jpg" width="135" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum cafe</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">There are also Rubens, Raphael, and
Titian.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did get very tired of all the
crucifixions, scourgings, bloody heads of John the Baptist, etc., so that I
found simple cityscapes by Canaletto quite refreshing and relaxing.</span><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"> There are also, of course, many portraits,
some of which make you wonder more about the persons represented.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am sorry that so many are now nameless.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a quote from a painter that after
religious art, he thought portraiture was the most important because it
produced a sort of immortality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It feels
like you are less immortal if only your image goes down to posterity without
your name.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So my recommendation is to
always have your name painted onto the portrait.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Why should it just be signed by the artist?</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL0dXtQTjnl5tj59_te9KLKtcfOhUa5gTbNRcvydLiKsBumjX-NR-aHMXJh6JY4y3gOcKJ6jIPME39QoLvPB8BUGswvVa0UK3aW3ysFnT_BX1tDTSf4rPGdzFO8bY2r0hPntFH3VK9DC8/s1600/05+Roman+busts.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="97" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL0dXtQTjnl5tj59_te9KLKtcfOhUa5gTbNRcvydLiKsBumjX-NR-aHMXJh6JY4y3gOcKJ6jIPME39QoLvPB8BUGswvVa0UK3aW3ysFnT_BX1tDTSf4rPGdzFO8bY2r0hPntFH3VK9DC8/s320/05+Roman+busts.jpg" width="320" /></a> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The museum has probably the
most ornate cafe I have ever eaten in – a two story rotunda with 3 or 4
different kinds of marble making up the columns and walls, and lots of folk
statues in niches around the rotunda.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The food was good too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
interesting that, at least in Vienna, and I gather this is true in most of
Europe, once you are seated, there is no effort to get you to leave.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most of the time, the service for taking
orders and delivering the food is reasonably speedy, but it can take forever to
get someone’s attention to get the bill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This can make waiting for a seat fairly long.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">After lunch we did the Greek,
Roman and Egyptian rooms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lots of Greek
vases in an amazingly good state of preservation, lots of little bronze
statues, and Egyptian mummies and sarcophagi. </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXsKWBj_yyPZ-TMnF6Vj22ZWaFAFYv9XohqIoiS5hNBCqpkEcgtMphkPFh8Bd7lVO39Gb2I2K9zonDbf_ASENpM-D8xXZAf6LVU0AwD1lY9x0vc4fk_BVd-qsJYziL2QhAEnth7SKW6oA/s1600/06+Max+by+Durer.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXsKWBj_yyPZ-TMnF6Vj22ZWaFAFYv9XohqIoiS5hNBCqpkEcgtMphkPFh8Bd7lVO39Gb2I2K9zonDbf_ASENpM-D8xXZAf6LVU0AwD1lY9x0vc4fk_BVd-qsJYziL2QhAEnth7SKW6oA/s200/06+Max+by+Durer.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maximilian by Durer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The next museum on the list
was the Albertina.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is next to the
Hofburg Palace in what had once been a Duke’s residence.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had a major exhibit on Emperor Maximilian
I, a founding father of the Hapsburg dynasty, Holy roman Emperor in the early
1500s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The exhibit is also about
Albrecht Durer and the art of the woodcut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Maximilian is particularly well known, both in image and history,
because he made a great effort to do so – what might these days be termed
branding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In particular, he had many
images made using the relatively new technology of the woodcut.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the new studies of the classic world,
people were aware of the Roman Emperor’s use of triumphant parades and arches
to celebrate great victories.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rather
than actually have a march or a triumphant arch, Maximilian just commissioned
huge pictorial scrolls and large wall prints and had them distributed around
his kingdom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much less work and expense,
especially since the procession is led by a mythic herald riding a chariot
pulled by a gryphon. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjIB4V4xN757m2AFyphL2xKg7S9Hgdf96NbFeAQTIeP4UA2bHpwNeybYnvCStVFE3wEZQ2pnfPBL0epD5XujKaWb9NqH70BMyU0N9uLxf9P1hM1TwG2hAkx3D-rpWXmx-psgXD5JFPdY/s1600/07+Belevedere.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrjIB4V4xN757m2AFyphL2xKg7S9Hgdf96NbFeAQTIeP4UA2bHpwNeybYnvCStVFE3wEZQ2pnfPBL0epD5XujKaWb9NqH70BMyU0N9uLxf9P1hM1TwG2hAkx3D-rpWXmx-psgXD5JFPdY/s200/07+Belevedere.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Belevedere</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The Albertina, as I said
above, used to be a Duke’s residence, so we also went through some of the apartments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly, we have not been making an effort to
see royal dwellings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other big
exhibit at the museum shows the recent donation of a collection of 19<sup>th</sup>
and 20<sup>th</sup> century work from Monet to Picasso.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a lot of lovely and/or interesting
works, but it was one of those exhibits where I got distracted by the exhibit
itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was an extravagant use of
space – large rooms with only a few pictures on each wall (and very few places
to sit).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It made me feel as though they
wanted me to think the exhibit was bigger than it really was.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other thing that can sometimes distract me
in a museum is the picture frames.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
love most of the ornate classical picture frames, but a lot of modern art does
not look good in it, and is better off in minimalist frames.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have also enjoyed a lot of these exhibits where
most of the writing is in German, so I don’t have to read the text.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I really prefer to try and experience the
work directly, but usually get sucked into the text anyway.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zgQ5QRSLJWSPMplrTmCVkX0f_1NqGKHA0qlzLoWQVbU32ahAl10VsH2aXprDY9zH2U6xPEfmHMj_4VswYxdT4aozc2ncREgXNug0c4GIkZMQhwxJWYUgakz5dlyq72Zyl9Gj0vatjfs/s1600/08+Belvedere+garden.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="84" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zgQ5QRSLJWSPMplrTmCVkX0f_1NqGKHA0qlzLoWQVbU32ahAl10VsH2aXprDY9zH2U6xPEfmHMj_4VswYxdT4aozc2ncREgXNug0c4GIkZMQhwxJWYUgakz5dlyq72Zyl9Gj0vatjfs/s320/08+Belvedere+garden.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Belvedere & garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">After the museum, we went
around the corner to the Palmen Haus, a restaurant in the glass conservatory of
the Hapsburg Palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Definitely the best
food of the trip so far, and lovely setting and service.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We finally had a Viennese dessert – a
chocolate/banana torte – with Viennese coffee (mélange, which is coffee with
steamed milk).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have gone back since.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_RgbygB78Obhv0notHsHYiJpj7GASTO8ceoazLn2DpgpxEhezUYyvNthsQKBoqOyUvkPknJK9aeBvurzdaDybZJjzqu84zkiQERfM-WOU-elBdHJUns3VFY7RKzvyZRSKOOTKPlC0eg/s1600/08+View+from+Belvedere.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="115" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_RgbygB78Obhv0notHsHYiJpj7GASTO8ceoazLn2DpgpxEhezUYyvNthsQKBoqOyUvkPknJK9aeBvurzdaDybZJjzqu84zkiQERfM-WOU-elBdHJUns3VFY7RKzvyZRSKOOTKPlC0eg/s200/08+View+from+Belvedere.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Historic Belvedere view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Our last museum of the week
was the Belvedere Palace, which actually took two days because there is an
upper and a lower palace, separated by a huge garden with fountains and
statuary that we walked through every day on our way to the German classes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At the Lower Belvedere we started off in the
stables with an exhibit of medieval panels and statues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I find the statuary very expressive, and most
of the panels were amazingly vivid and well preserved in their colors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then there were a number of rooms devoted to
Carl Schuch, a little known Austrian contemporary of the Impressionists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is partly because he was rich and didn’t
have to sell his paintings, and partly because he was a perfectionist who never
liked to exhibit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He did know a lot of
contemporary artists and was respected by them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>His work is very good, and I actually appreciated a lot of the text (in
English) because it did tell me what he was striving for – an accurate
rendition of what he saw, but also recognizing that a 2 dimensional
representation is never accurate, and must work on its own terms also.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLPR1YW2dkqNH45exiN-unlDAArABS9phmG1-ZuMts5ZbUaVc-CF8O6hv6OoY9yTEfzgrSkUofJw9J2aH_JGx49bZO6QH7WLfWnqk7kmFRJmfZQXDh2HkkKiqpBzQD4wfIEMrunBaVsA/s1600/09+Musicvereins.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLPR1YW2dkqNH45exiN-unlDAArABS9phmG1-ZuMts5ZbUaVc-CF8O6hv6OoY9yTEfzgrSkUofJw9J2aH_JGx49bZO6QH7WLfWnqk7kmFRJmfZQXDh2HkkKiqpBzQD4wfIEMrunBaVsA/s200/09+Musicvereins.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Musikverein</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Finally, in the main halls,
there was an exhibit of 19<sup>th</sup> century Austrian paintings depicting
scenes from Hungary to India – the exotic Orient.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a variety of styles, and it was
fun to just view all the locals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One
interesting picture was painted underwater in a diving bell the artist had made
for him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Actually it was sketched under
water and completed on land.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also
enjoyed strolling thru the side garden that is not available for public access.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLOzGrIk3LswGR4PmNRzSYx8eez4LFzdo-k2dy1jNfVKAdzdR-QgI3J-qetXOl0fpTxW0GakibrMe3cAjKC_Bh8_x3BTdStbs6OQ92Z__pPoMDMzz2CXlFBo5uTvzZ7J0wyRAassgUpQ/s1600/10+Cruise+boats+on+the+Danube.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLOzGrIk3LswGR4PmNRzSYx8eez4LFzdo-k2dy1jNfVKAdzdR-QgI3J-qetXOl0fpTxW0GakibrMe3cAjKC_Bh8_x3BTdStbs6OQ92Z__pPoMDMzz2CXlFBo5uTvzZ7J0wyRAassgUpQ/s200/10+Cruise+boats+on+the+Danube.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruise boats on the Danube</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The Upper Belvedere is even
bigger than the Lower, with 3 floors of exhibits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They also do a good job with the rooms
themselves, with pictures of how they looked when occupied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The 2 palaces were built as a summer
residence for Prince Eugene (pronounced Oigun in German) of Saxony around 1715,
being on a slight rise and well outside the city walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A number of the rooms still have their
original ceilings and statuary, but a number do not.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Belvedere has perhaps the largest of the
Klimt exhibits currently going on in the city, including his famous Kiss.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Klimt is currently so popular, and his work
is so decorative, that it is hard to take a fresh look at it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did find his landscapes to be interesting,
and different from his more well-known work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I also enjoyed some of the contemporaneous art work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was another exhibit of medieval art,
and many rooms of 19<sup>th</sup> century art, and some 20<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It got quite exhausting
actually.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOG922-0YCdvhPKLXWAD0ihoMVUdslQ-I4eDluii2GkDG1tcCEXNCCpcSxD7HsT9hutkz-FWIoQrECqY0uLc1pfIayTBFfThdCY7HP1qwkegGF-TOrdzqOSyEmzt_CqUWQHthLyljb7oY/s1600/11+Wachau+view.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOG922-0YCdvhPKLXWAD0ihoMVUdslQ-I4eDluii2GkDG1tcCEXNCCpcSxD7HsT9hutkz-FWIoQrECqY0uLc1pfIayTBFfThdCY7HP1qwkegGF-TOrdzqOSyEmzt_CqUWQHthLyljb7oY/s200/11+Wachau+view.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wachau view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">More music: We are still
going to concerts every second or third evening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not only is the music and performance
brilliant, but it is still just so exciting to be in Vienna to hear it!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We returned to the Jesuitenkirche to hear
Bach’s St. John’s Passion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went to
the Vienna Musikverein (Music Society) for Beethoven’s Missa Solemnis by the
Vienna Symphony Orchestra.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And the
Volksopera to hear La Traviata.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
isn’t much point in me trying to describe these experiences except that I have
become a fan of live music.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is great
to have recordings to listen to at will, but live is just really different.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwv5PWyccv2Ug3kc4N2KwPsSryMBP1Wompv9V9rye8gRS9Gpu_mOlYKlLOnaUvDv80X2yPN4r-vvUjxvUmfKHNpE8QYFZdgNNtvQMcTlv7ypNYx3syKK9sdZKVbd8RPV5pQsk8uk7FX4/s1600/12+Melk+monastary.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrwv5PWyccv2Ug3kc4N2KwPsSryMBP1Wompv9V9rye8gRS9Gpu_mOlYKlLOnaUvDv80X2yPN4r-vvUjxvUmfKHNpE8QYFZdgNNtvQMcTlv7ypNYx3syKK9sdZKVbd8RPV5pQsk8uk7FX4/s200/12+Melk+monastary.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Melk monastary</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">We took a cruise up the Danube
River one day – through the Wachau Valley, which is a world famous scenic
stretch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It started with a bus trip past
Krems, where many Neolithic treasures have been excavated, and the ruined
castle of Durnstein where King Richard the Lionheart was held captive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had expected more time on the river, but as
it worked out, this was ok.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had
booked this particular day, Friday, because on the long term forecast it looked
the warmest, but it turned out overcast and fairly cool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was not only overcast, but with low enough
clouds that the tops of the hills were obscured.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bus was warm and had a multilingual guide
to tell us about the sites.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbgRUHgmiJ-riA5FDA31A1MPLK7BsRDvHXYOXBHKx5lJyJAFIP9AzX0pVsghadJQS_kaCzdEqpGx5IpoXMLVMtg4rpOu4DVxfO_Tez6ay2_VVv68QCuuZh6GxgxL6K7a0zkkdiZI5Rio/s1600/13+Inside+Melk+church.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivbgRUHgmiJ-riA5FDA31A1MPLK7BsRDvHXYOXBHKx5lJyJAFIP9AzX0pVsghadJQS_kaCzdEqpGx5IpoXMLVMtg4rpOu4DVxfO_Tez6ay2_VVv68QCuuZh6GxgxL6K7a0zkkdiZI5Rio/s200/13+Inside+Melk+church.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Melk church</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>We boarded
our boat at Spitz and continued up the river to Melk, about an hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had a very pleasant lunch on board.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This allowed us to take time to go into the
village of Melk before touring the Abbey, the high point of the day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did have dessert in Melk though, apricot
crepes and an apricot cake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Wachau
is famous for both wine and apricots, including apricot liqueur, which we
bought a small bottle of.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Abbey,
most of which is run as a school for about 700 students, currently has about 30
monks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tour went through what used
to be the guest wing and is now a small museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There were lots of religious treasures – chalices and vestments and
statues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The great room/reception hall
is another room with a great trompe l’oiel ceiling painting which makes it look
like a much higher dome than it really is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-bgpjUnMTfd1ewb0jKhZJL24Fx7yPfjrUIUXk_n3lBGBmGPQ-VYT_77bIb2_O_lLdKmDYfPRRp7XPS5KiBfZljeQE4BN2LQ-dVhuyDM9TQjnJjo-FOkLBZxF2NwdkfNL6FAQ_r0nEaT4/s1600/Alex+and+Goethe.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-bgpjUnMTfd1ewb0jKhZJL24Fx7yPfjrUIUXk_n3lBGBmGPQ-VYT_77bIb2_O_lLdKmDYfPRRp7XPS5KiBfZljeQE4BN2LQ-dVhuyDM9TQjnJjo-FOkLBZxF2NwdkfNL6FAQ_r0nEaT4/s200/Alex+and+Goethe.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex & Goethe</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">As I am running late on
posting this entry, which only covers week 3, I am not including any of what we
have done this week.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stay tuned!</span></div>
<br />
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-3236119532712762842012-10-08T00:11:00.001-07:002012-10-17T02:09:52.149-07:00Vienna week two<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUbtZapzzU67qFwKXLlY0_wOPTMUBAjjkdy7tZ6sXkZMJqPrxACYnE7FiXYa876VR1PVkI6zuyyNQ_kN2wPv7gUhk5xWwBxP6UliO8tbrARerFged70Zlann3jEZtVhFzpskE7eypaJQ4/s1600/City+panorama.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUbtZapzzU67qFwKXLlY0_wOPTMUBAjjkdy7tZ6sXkZMJqPrxACYnE7FiXYa876VR1PVkI6zuyyNQ_kN2wPv7gUhk5xWwBxP6UliO8tbrARerFged70Zlann3jEZtVhFzpskE7eypaJQ4/s640/City+panorama.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">City panorama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUJRSTmAGJ5lFIvj936zzGqhyphenhyphen8J_eQ6Vz4uK9vhXt38igd-2ebbCzR1wITs1MqxXWPofW6H_J8i23dIbgwcZJojLHKpqtVLmdjl6gfdEuMjn99W5pXwOc4pwNaCePkfgBuHXkNo8q4d-w/s1600/Redoutensaal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUJRSTmAGJ5lFIvj936zzGqhyphenhyphen8J_eQ6Vz4uK9vhXt38igd-2ebbCzR1wITs1MqxXWPofW6H_J8i23dIbgwcZJojLHKpqtVLmdjl6gfdEuMjn99W5pXwOc4pwNaCePkfgBuHXkNo8q4d-w/s1600/Redoutensaal.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Redoutensaal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We have now finished our
language classes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two weeks is not that
long, but I do feel like I have learned a good deal of grammar, which is
sticking reasonably well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Vocabulary
still seems to leak out of my brain at an alarming rate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We both have ambitions to continue our
studies, but we will see how well we keep our resolutions.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Let the sightseeing begin!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCiJglkXVKVrWR4evEES8jNen-7ZPJQ9pZPGVlF1llSyZHWDQ4ngp8dFWBXpkiTB5BcJuUXCjCZWsFRx3RYCZIO3xGekIQamNo0AJfme60Xtp4PVWMnTW5WeONXGKsqhuYrbvjnc6DmBE/s1600/Historic+Redoutensaal.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCiJglkXVKVrWR4evEES8jNen-7ZPJQ9pZPGVlF1llSyZHWDQ4ngp8dFWBXpkiTB5BcJuUXCjCZWsFRx3RYCZIO3xGekIQamNo0AJfme60Xtp4PVWMnTW5WeONXGKsqhuYrbvjnc6DmBE/s1600/Historic+Redoutensaal.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Historic Redoutensaal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Actually, the main thing
that has already begun is music attendance in earnest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went to a totally marvelous Strauss
concert in the Redoutensaal of the Hofburg Palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In addition to Straus waltzes and polkas,
there were four pieces by Mozart, and one each by Verdi and Donizetti.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were 5 soloist singers, occasionally
singing in duets and all together for the finale.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The program showed off Strauss’s popular side
with a number of pieces having some very funny bits performed by the
percussionist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The director had the
audience clapping along on one piece.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The room itself has many historical associations, being the site of performances
by Mozart, Beethoven, Strauss, Paganini, Salieri, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was also the site of the renowned balls
and concerts held during the Congress of Vienna in 1814-15.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sadly, in 1992 a fire destroyed most of that
wing of the Palace, so all that remained were the exterior walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The building has been restored, but they have
not tried to imitate its former opulence. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9dH7Xlvm6g9X7u5L7GXxWF0VKFylrK2W9r5Jwnbsd824bYvNqF6W7qIm5NZLbg4DERKcm0EGbG5lTlsayMqv_k5tYAIkF68BrNGMJ6Rk67PawWgSh01bHBYLOjH51CLZf2Sy5i8EWSE/s1600/Donauturm.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9dH7Xlvm6g9X7u5L7GXxWF0VKFylrK2W9r5Jwnbsd824bYvNqF6W7qIm5NZLbg4DERKcm0EGbG5lTlsayMqv_k5tYAIkF68BrNGMJ6Rk67PawWgSh01bHBYLOjH51CLZf2Sy5i8EWSE/s200/Donauturm.jpg" width="138" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donauturm</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">On Sunday after our
Hofburg tour, we had wandered around some of the old city on our own.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went into a Croatian Church, St.
Michael’s, where the walls were covered with little plaques giving thanks for
prayers answered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found the Shoa
(Holocaust) memorial in Judenplatz – a stark large block of stone with the
names of the concentration camps chiseled into the pavement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Austria was one of the many European
countries which evicted the Jews in 1492, so there is a long history of
anti-Semitism.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Around the corner, we also
found a vegetarian restaurant, the Bio Bar, so we returned there for dinner
before the Strauss concert.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is always
nice to be able to order anything on the menu. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf-3gp-LF4s6jRWG6-xVxAtNhqew561NUlpbeTf0zgbgGphYXvWN36iA026dWZ2e6aT9J6cErKCKFRBWjuu00fdB94_-Td31CYP2CvxvCR3tfWxopuKOTYSCBRKjCJ0lygyGMhcOgsEYA/s1600/Allende+monument.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf-3gp-LF4s6jRWG6-xVxAtNhqew561NUlpbeTf0zgbgGphYXvWN36iA026dWZ2e6aT9J6cErKCKFRBWjuu00fdB94_-Td31CYP2CvxvCR3tfWxopuKOTYSCBRKjCJ0lygyGMhcOgsEYA/s200/Allende+monument.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salvador Allende</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We returned to Karlskirche
for a performance of Beethoven’s Fifth that was quite overwhelming.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though we were worried that the piece is
too familiar, it sounded very inspiring in that beautiful setting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Saturday, we went on
another expedition offered by ActiLingua, our language school; this time, an
exploration of the Danube.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We met at the
Vienna International Center (VIC), which has a large United Nations complex and
many other buildings on a large island in the Danube.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is one of the few areas of the city with
skyscrapers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t believe I have
mentioned that that is another similarity between Washington DC and Vienna –
they are both low, spread out cities without tall buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the VIC, we walked through many concrete
spaces and then through a large park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DI798DGKyIfBdlCvEkuRrGmeFBwQZM0w9kmXabz6qgNDRaLEXciItiPr5eDIkesHtcMErwHXZ1eDplxMHl4VtmE2PAo1r41yZ_TRiBLBti3VyG-gWy2C_mpByLEWE7gZcCcSpcZC7BU/s1600/Leopoldberg+am+Donau.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DI798DGKyIfBdlCvEkuRrGmeFBwQZM0w9kmXabz6qgNDRaLEXciItiPr5eDIkesHtcMErwHXZ1eDplxMHl4VtmE2PAo1r41yZ_TRiBLBti3VyG-gWy2C_mpByLEWE7gZcCcSpcZC7BU/s320/Leopoldberg+am+Donau.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the hills north of the city</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">There
are many streets and plazas named after various international political figures,
including a monument in the park to Salvador Allende. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We continued on to a space needle sort of
building called the Danube Tower (Donauturm).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The observation deck is 150 meters high.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We were blessed with a beautiful mild clear sunny day, so we had a great
view around the city, suburbs and out into the countryside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also a bungee jumping platform up
there, but luckily it was closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
we took another long walk back to the underground station, a short hop across
the river and then over to where river cruise boats left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The boat turned out to be full, so we had an
hour to eat lunch before the next boat came.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We were with a good group (about 30), with most people trying to speak
German most of the time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw0GBs0uJv1fqC9YY_EGnQMio-yf9UVSwcwxNfKA1AH7i1fKqW4JlcsAdzvpqicHhnswkNrNt820aaPtjDl87UpxcBDuGbuvrtpjN8OYRlnmf7ZLlWqfYNvU9mHZbVSL5XMDGCn4-JpUg/s1600/Donau+Lions.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw0GBs0uJv1fqC9YY_EGnQMio-yf9UVSwcwxNfKA1AH7i1fKqW4JlcsAdzvpqicHhnswkNrNt820aaPtjDl87UpxcBDuGbuvrtpjN8OYRlnmf7ZLlWqfYNvU9mHZbVSL5XMDGCn4-JpUg/s200/Donau+Lions.jpg" width="147" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guarding the entrance to the canal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">had nice
chats with a number of students from our groups, and met a new ActiLingua
member about our age from California.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This is the second year he has come to Vienna.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we invited him along as we walked down the
river bank looking for a restaurant, which was surprisingly hard to find, but
finally we were successful, had some sandwiches and returned to the group on
time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Danube cruise went upstream
along the city and then turned into the Danube Canal, which runs through a
section of town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sitting in the lock
took about half an hour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One of the main
sights along the way is a rather gaudy trash burning municipal power
plant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are quite proud of their low
emissions standards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also find myself
impressed with the quality of a lot of the graffiti in Vienna – very artistic,
most of it.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Today, Sunday, we went to
hear mass in the Jesuitenkirche of St. Augustine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went to it as a concert performance of the
Hofkapellmeistermesse by Antonio Salieri with the church choir, but it was
indeed a full mass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was actually
quite appropriate to hear it in context.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Again, the acoustics in the church were amazing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were in the back row of the packed church
and the sound was beautiful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Only when
the organ played was the rest of the choir and orchestra hard to hear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was also a good opportunity to hear German
in a context that I am a little familiar with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I could tell that the Old Testament reading was Genesis about the
creation of Eve, because of the phrase “flesh of my flesh” (Fleisch von meinem
fleisch).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I could tell that the New
Testament reading was about Kinder, and there aren’t that many of those
passages.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sermon had a lot about
Menschen, Fraus and Kinder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron said it
seemed to be in support of the traditional family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I like that there is a hand shake </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirK56NMedsPK7VUgBUza4Jt56hUZQ7U-4YeY7Z9w_bzd9xTeI2ScObbSUWOWHrywMlJQbHx1COqc8Bc_VYymSgy_4zLW_MMe32gl9Ogmmryzhb88PxjGNDGeyLtjEgGyYHA-g8ieEcXTw/s1600/Jesuitenkirche+ceiling.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirK56NMedsPK7VUgBUza4Jt56hUZQ7U-4YeY7Z9w_bzd9xTeI2ScObbSUWOWHrywMlJQbHx1COqc8Bc_VYymSgy_4zLW_MMe32gl9Ogmmryzhb88PxjGNDGeyLtjEgGyYHA-g8ieEcXTw/s1600/Jesuitenkirche+ceiling.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jesuitenkirche painting of a dome</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">in the
Catholic Mass.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This church also is a
marvel of marble columns, painted ceilings, including a trompe l’oeil dome in
the center, and a beautiful carved wooden pulpit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The painting behind the altar is Mary
ascending into heaven “gaudant angeli” as the inscription said on the very
large crown held up by two angel statues.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In fact, I am struck in all the church paintings I have been seeing at
how the air is full of angels everywhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I can see how with all this visual evidence surrounding you, one could
easily believe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All these churches that
we have been in are huge, by the way, and yet all of them are parish
churches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have not been in the
Cathedral yet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some of the churches have
glassed in balconies in the altar area for any royalty that might attend.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">After the mass, we went to
the nearby Mozarthaus, an apartment where he and his family lived from 1784 to
1787.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Among other works, he composed The
Marriage of Figaro there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a well
done audio tour, giving a good overview of the life, times and works of
Mozart.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much of it is rather sad, with
only two out of six children surviving, and his own early death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He lived here during the height of his
fashion and spent all his money lavishly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The Marriage of Figaro did not go over well as a satire of aristocratic
mores, plus there was a war, so his fortunes decreased, and they had to
move.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They loved him in Prague
though.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>An interesting character
mentioned was Angelo Soliman, a slave from Nigeria, but also a fellow
Freemason.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He did very well in the
household of the Prince of Liechtenstein, and was viewed as a very accomplished
person, but he still died a slave, and his body was stuffed and displayed in
the Curio cupboard of the Prince until the building was burned down in 1848. </span></div>
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AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-50054574662105211642012-10-02T04:02:00.000-07:002012-10-17T02:10:23.234-07:00First week in Vienna<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOKMhgniNuo1XR1kSGtaCjFP0eOMSV3l9BKsOMwVS86TpvgXa1fVUOfMCvG7ARzpIJ_Kbj9Ybp3xF0p4lpZdHmyunmuTOSCSVrOdPObfU3ANRmjU65jx0z5Pwsekf5mySgjGFrTFrX3I/s1600/Theseus+Temple+Vienna.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyOKMhgniNuo1XR1kSGtaCjFP0eOMSV3l9BKsOMwVS86TpvgXa1fVUOfMCvG7ARzpIJ_Kbj9Ybp3xF0p4lpZdHmyunmuTOSCSVrOdPObfU3ANRmjU65jx0z5Pwsekf5mySgjGFrTFrX3I/s200/Theseus+Temple+Vienna.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Theseus Temple Vienna</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphenEuMeL-43ina9neO_J3uVfV2zLbOQfY3gwNYCAYrwskljMfnPwvbvmc5vfVBU4o1QCI7izFOZg1JdBvRMbbPHprsKUnbOvsnWgKS8NDpFefHI9Hk67jU5ISxGSw4m-XVGQSb_Icb4Y8/s1600/Votiv+Kirche.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphenEuMeL-43ina9neO_J3uVfV2zLbOQfY3gwNYCAYrwskljMfnPwvbvmc5vfVBU4o1QCI7izFOZg1JdBvRMbbPHprsKUnbOvsnWgKS8NDpFefHI9Hk67jU5ISxGSw4m-XVGQSb_Icb4Y8/s200/Votiv+Kirche.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Votivkirche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We have been in Vienna for
a week now.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have a very nice
apartment conveniently located near a subway stop and other public transport,
and within comfortable walking range of our German classes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is not even uncomfortably far to walk
downtown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are lots of grocery
stores, restaurants and other shopping within a few blocks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The apartment is two large rooms with high
ceilings, on the inner courtyard of a five story building, so it is quite
quiet, but there is also not much difference in the light between a cloudy day
and a sunny one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But, in fact, the
weather has been quite pleasant, mostly in the 60s and occasionally in the
70s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There have been a few light
showers, but no long periods of rain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYDe7evK-0knFnw6noZr90XE4ycC0bylF_7V-jDuxXacnZeuxXDuVpkqL7iV4Xf9p3lcMSjeXhEVN0T1QhboTTRiw3ZQwJwyOSnyFU-SmCyL1iOnT1FWFfZubRmJXJMXbq-xRMRF7euM/s1600/Alex+und+Mozart.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTYDe7evK-0knFnw6noZr90XE4ycC0bylF_7V-jDuxXacnZeuxXDuVpkqL7iV4Xf9p3lcMSjeXhEVN0T1QhboTTRiw3ZQwJwyOSnyFU-SmCyL1iOnT1FWFfZubRmJXJMXbq-xRMRF7euM/s200/Alex+und+Mozart.jpg" width="142" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mozart </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhODuhzfHubxaMHhewrKzd-tMxD96pcsPrQDOdFMp1FQtFSkfyj891Z3f7Nshy1eosJucI40bHyDRWomWvGEs3H9hMjdzyf8fDWU_8YReldCCJnsitvm5z0lcLLy37BXi11Ep3u88igt4s/s1600/Beethoven+and+Schubert.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhODuhzfHubxaMHhewrKzd-tMxD96pcsPrQDOdFMp1FQtFSkfyj891Z3f7Nshy1eosJucI40bHyDRWomWvGEs3H9hMjdzyf8fDWU_8YReldCCJnsitvm5z0lcLLy37BXi11Ep3u88igt4s/s200/Beethoven+and+Schubert.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schubert and Beethoven memorials</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">The German classes take up
a lot of our time right now.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron has
classes in the morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There have only
been 4 people in his class, but this week it will have 8.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My beginners’ class meets in the afternoon;
90 minutes of grammar and 90 minutes of conversation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Last week we had 10 students – 3 Swiss, 2
Russians, 1 Czech, 1 Mexican, 1 Australian, and 1 English.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This week we lost one Swiss and the Czech and
gained a Swiss, Greek, and American. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
feel like I am doing OK with the grammar, but it is still really hard to build
up vocabulary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">It is interesting to have
to explore the city separately.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a
good stretch for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have both been
</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyLzPvMmIw0YnLRxR8z0ZRWK9qVfEC9dM-aFvwPT_nnIbxGVB9FHAtawZX9YVeml0osYJwgQc5yM6AhD-Fk0Eeh58Zi7Dg9kV31oRxC5buGXenwjnERV-1GOml_WCucqOKkJXaW_EufcA/s1600/Brahms.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyLzPvMmIw0YnLRxR8z0ZRWK9qVfEC9dM-aFvwPT_nnIbxGVB9FHAtawZX9YVeml0osYJwgQc5yM6AhD-Fk0Eeh58Zi7Dg9kV31oRxC5buGXenwjnERV-1GOml_WCucqOKkJXaW_EufcA/s200/Brahms.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brahms</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">tending to explore around by subway and tram and then on foot, but not to go
into the museums yet, because we don’t really have time.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have been going into churches, almost all
of which have been interesting to some degree or another.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ron has been seeking out memorials and
statues to composers and writers. We also sought out the Theseus Temple in the Volksgarten, which is looking all nicely cleaned up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Vienna
is a big city with around 3 million people, so it is larger than DC.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is even more monumental, given its
imperial history.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So even just looking
at the outsides of buildings is interesting.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKHZQqLOPFU8xWBgBhlA4Fv1i_FhpqIwTTC42ygPkV3lcwP-btZOsbTOBz4f1CVn2SrbY5-rt6KORxXIrJm7TGtdrs_ULCwWLs-c35lIz_c2aRQvH9zWewk788shJTKINMGSLqbQAEPl0/s1600/Heurige+Mayer+am+Pfarrplatz.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKHZQqLOPFU8xWBgBhlA4Fv1i_FhpqIwTTC42ygPkV3lcwP-btZOsbTOBz4f1CVn2SrbY5-rt6KORxXIrJm7TGtdrs_ULCwWLs-c35lIz_c2aRQvH9zWewk788shJTKINMGSLqbQAEPl0/s320/Heurige+Mayer+am+Pfarrplatz.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mayer am Pfarrplatz heurige</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">This weekend we took a fun
expedition to the other side of the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We are south of the city center, and we took a tram to the northern
district of Heiligenstadt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There we got
on a bus to go up into the hills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
were trying to find a particular heurige or wine restaurant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We asked the bus driver if we were on the
right bus to Pfarrplatz, and he said yes, but neglected to tell us that the
stop was not called that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did not
bother to consult our map.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It actually
turned into one of those fortuitous travel adventures.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We drove on and on, through the town of
Grinzing which is chock-a-block with quaint restaurants, and up to the top of
the hill and the end of the line. We emerged to a spectacular view of Vienna,
although the day was somewhat hazy/smoggy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The whole area is a park with lots of hiking trails and even a farm
petting zoo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a very broad
paved path which looked like it was a way to walk all the way back down into
the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a couple of
restaurants there with lots of outdoor seating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>One of them seemed to be having a festival to celebrate the new wine
harvest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think the local radio station
was there providing music and commentary.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The music, however, was 50s American country – friendly but odd.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-MDp1XABKuyGLTGUSBbG2OCCmN4ZCRza1N0g42HUDy2-xvveNzvB5PlCp5QaIq9F0MktlUmNW8hN7qNs9HvoRzgP5pxkdkXCbHDxLvAS-vQnql521-lmNgusINursohVcujcMrKPQIA/s1600/Alex+und+Beethoven.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-MDp1XABKuyGLTGUSBbG2OCCmN4ZCRza1N0g42HUDy2-xvveNzvB5PlCp5QaIq9F0MktlUmNW8hN7qNs9HvoRzgP5pxkdkXCbHDxLvAS-vQnql521-lmNgusINursohVcujcMrKPQIA/s200/Alex+und+Beethoven.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beethoven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbEwcr-S8CcZYEXYg4QOxiwkfq1TBBRLN062Hi2dUdCtPfLMqYtxXcq6hbAgj4xrhoAL4F07yFIB0sPzgM0p0JBLoUsDSNy6-sRTQrr02xzes4Za12FV4EtAlYw5cBUNeUpqdZXXKDXs/s1600/Beethoven+Museum.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFbEwcr-S8CcZYEXYg4QOxiwkfq1TBBRLN062Hi2dUdCtPfLMqYtxXcq6hbAgj4xrhoAL4F07yFIB0sPzgM0p0JBLoUsDSNy6-sRTQrr02xzes4Za12FV4EtAlYw5cBUNeUpqdZXXKDXs/s200/Beethoven+Museum.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beethoven Haus</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">After wandering around for
a bit and consulting our map carefully, we got back on a bus, and successfully
found our restaurant, Mayer am Pfarrplatz.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They bottle their own wine, at least some of which is grown nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were also featuring the pumpkin harvest,
so we had cream of pumpkin soup and pumpkin risotto for lunch, both very
good.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Heiligenstadt used to be a distant
suburb and had a mineral spring, so it was a place people went in the summer
for their health, including Ludwig van Beethoven. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The restaurant claims he stayed there in 1817.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A
half a block down the street is another building in which he may have stayed which
has a few rooms converted into a museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It highlighted his Heiligenstadt Testimony, which is a despairing letter
he wrote to his brothers about his health and growing deafness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He talks about how he feels isolated from
people who now think of him as grumpy and misanthropic. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not only does he miss hearing birds singing,
for instance, but it is also an embarrassing disability to have as a musician,
even though he does in fact continue to write beautiful music.</span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9lmZJzMf_Hsf717_FqNgppqtlPT1u0yHatRifSjpYrl0HYSljCqhX1HUDmmV6_mK2QJ_nwOIVg7CO193H7GfuMc7fBVXkRL5YhB9WISboGkV8WuwfW76ZSF049DkQUUvZfdniAu3f6A/s1600/Karlskirche.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9lmZJzMf_Hsf717_FqNgppqtlPT1u0yHatRifSjpYrl0HYSljCqhX1HUDmmV6_mK2QJ_nwOIVg7CO193H7GfuMc7fBVXkRL5YhB9WISboGkV8WuwfW76ZSF049DkQUUvZfdniAu3f6A/s200/Karlskirche.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karlskirche</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6isPsCNTFVzKZG7rmvihfbL21-Ie7u9i5Z3Bwn8VcQDRYIB2n7sm8U-8sCxN8GCmdcibY1DWn2ueu-a7VExjm7Rss-2t5hBVV6u8OnFOz9iMP5aG6M3ll0ZjzkH8jzTGRGPvm4WihWg/s1600/Karlskirche+alter.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW6isPsCNTFVzKZG7rmvihfbL21-Ie7u9i5Z3Bwn8VcQDRYIB2n7sm8U-8sCxN8GCmdcibY1DWn2ueu-a7VExjm7Rss-2t5hBVV6u8OnFOz9iMP5aG6M3ll0ZjzkH8jzTGRGPvm4WihWg/s200/Karlskirche+alter.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Karlskirche altar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Saturday evening we went
to a performance of the Mozart Requiem in the Karlskirche, which is an amazing Rococo
church downtown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wall behind the altar
has a huge golden sunburst with Jesus ascending to heaven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So the setting was spectacular. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The church also has an echo which lasted 2-3
seconds, which provides a dramatic close to the musical passages.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The chorus was 13 people including the four
soloists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The orchestra was small but
quite adequate for the space.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All in
all, a very satisfying experience. </span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Sunday afternoon we went
on a tour given by the school of the Hapsburg palace area in the heart of the
city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went around the outside of the
complex and saw a number of things which we hadn’t caught ourselves yet, so it
was well worth doing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And we have a
better idea of what to go back to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
tour was in German.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She did a good job
of speaking slowly and clearly, and since I have been reading some of the
history, I could follow it a little, and Ron did some translating for me.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbdA69_ND-ZUSpptDIfIKRV72sFD9z0iYFY5EsjeOVODF7J_WcJK67uo_RIw_t_NGSX6PnVGRaoHAV3c_jOQXsLebEVtZz13RKAxIQbsXgp8cU-uH1cZ4wl5jGmUutcnOucrdUPg58rQ/s1600/Lipizaner+horse.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWbdA69_ND-ZUSpptDIfIKRV72sFD9z0iYFY5EsjeOVODF7J_WcJK67uo_RIw_t_NGSX6PnVGRaoHAV3c_jOQXsLebEVtZz13RKAxIQbsXgp8cU-uH1cZ4wl5jGmUutcnOucrdUPg58rQ/s200/Lipizaner+horse.jpg" width="145" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lipizzaner Horse Stable</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We have a number of
musical performances planned and other sightseeing, so there will be more to
write about later.</span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMmi2uqSn8Gm8tH2RxaV_l-uo7zxA9W96AL5E-rchksKzVQ1tuiiMy6kcxw1VRbuHhl7OajcvEOco3F0WGojU9eCkM93PslRGUpAv7n0iIn7Q8IsqcPNZLAuerLjGT9o3OxIMALOyE52Y/s1600/Schonbrunn+Palace.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMmi2uqSn8Gm8tH2RxaV_l-uo7zxA9W96AL5E-rchksKzVQ1tuiiMy6kcxw1VRbuHhl7OajcvEOco3F0WGojU9eCkM93PslRGUpAv7n0iIn7Q8IsqcPNZLAuerLjGT9o3OxIMALOyE52Y/s400/Schonbrunn+Palace.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Schonbrunn Summer Palace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-88534161702837139342012-09-25T13:57:00.001-07:002012-09-29T14:18:18.700-07:00North Berwick<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GT2JMiJ6UogHFLFX_SfTqmKl4xOYLMz870HK1kRSfcBK9YEDBCSR9N93H3Df_hzo0cW8yBW57aTzYYku7ulFEuMvOexwar7Gdk9WDPgQ5G8mzri5P0S_ZGH7vf8Mpl3Z4CtqGaLrNsQ/s1600/01+North+Berwick+beach+panorama.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GT2JMiJ6UogHFLFX_SfTqmKl4xOYLMz870HK1kRSfcBK9YEDBCSR9N93H3Df_hzo0cW8yBW57aTzYYku7ulFEuMvOexwar7Gdk9WDPgQ5G8mzri5P0S_ZGH7vf8Mpl3Z4CtqGaLrNsQ/s640/01+North+Berwick+beach+panorama.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Berwick</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrp0StuDqBkHRp23Oor3syI0IfU6Yf3yG7OR1azeG-sQglx42g_s-Vvy2h-bnL0V4_wY83pGVC0_JzV99w6EfMw3OV8ggSPvCqzZL0JuYsxeG7Td3p3zRIOEB66j_LNwciqUuytwpQROY/s1600/002+Our+apartment+building.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrp0StuDqBkHRp23Oor3syI0IfU6Yf3yG7OR1azeG-sQglx42g_s-Vvy2h-bnL0V4_wY83pGVC0_JzV99w6EfMw3OV8ggSPvCqzZL0JuYsxeG7Td3p3zRIOEB66j_LNwciqUuytwpQROY/s200/002+Our+apartment+building.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The street where we live</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bass Rock</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We spent three days in North
Berwick and the East Lothian area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our
apartment was just around the corner from one of the two beaches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>North Berwick is right on the mouth of the
Firth of Forth and the North Sea.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most
days you can see across to the other side of the Firth.</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"> There are also several islands off the coast;
the most prominent is Bass Rock because it rises very high out of the water and
is very white.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a major gannet
nesting site.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It and the other islands
also provide nesting places for seals and many other seabirds, including
puffins, but those had mostly gone by the time we were there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>NB’s main tourist site therefore is the
Scottish Seabird Center, about 3 blocks away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides lots of information about the birds, they have interactive
cameras stationed on 4 islands.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can
move the camera view around 360 degrees and zoom in and out, so you can get a
really close up look at some of the birds, or zoom out for a broad view.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is how we discovered that Bass Rock is
not white from all the bird guano, but because it is packed with white
gannets.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can go for your own
look-see at </span><a href="http://www.seabird.org/"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">www.seabird.org</span></a><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">.</span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Berwick Law</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harbor</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">The town itself is a good
looking prosperous community.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The High
Street with most of the businesses stretches for 4 -5 blocks parallel to the
beach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had a good variety of
restaurants and pubs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The harbor itself
is very old, from the 13<sup>th</sup> century, when it was a pilgrimage stop
for people wanting to cross the Firth on their way to St. Andrew’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were going to pray to the saint, but
nowadays the pilgrimage is for golf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are many courses in the area and in 2014 the British Open will be
nearby.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Walking around the town, we came
across a half a dozen historic plaques to locals who became famous
golfers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The promontory that the harbor
is on sets off the sweep of the two beaches on either side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other main feature of the town is a tall
basalt hill just on the outskirts, called the Law.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This part of Scotland is full of these
volcanic remnants, and these tall isolated hills are all called laws.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did not climb it.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North Berwick in the 1300s</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdM3LO67hQJldQZ_smBSkRNKcp98Ni9kSg1uSPAaSixEjoN6bRtBat3scj0hsAv3WuxOBYuRJPpmtiKwdVSGUQDkdxRi2QAMfHvihXdN8-OYEa8drIigR4TELkJxbRDfnOm3-N4im6mY8/s1600/12+Approach+toTantallon+Castle.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdM3LO67hQJldQZ_smBSkRNKcp98Ni9kSg1uSPAaSixEjoN6bRtBat3scj0hsAv3WuxOBYuRJPpmtiKwdVSGUQDkdxRi2QAMfHvihXdN8-OYEa8drIigR4TELkJxbRDfnOm3-N4im6mY8/s200/12+Approach+toTantallon+Castle.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tantallon Castle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">To the south of NB, there
were two places we went to: Tantallon Castle and the town of Dunbar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tantallon is a ruined castle on the coast
just across from Bass Rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is hard
for the pictures to </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGHGOcAoQQxNbyv-FMW7c6SZx1o4J0nggqde67UGI2loChkEhq3hMYLMxwOei7rXCS6PR1BUAEbjbarkrb6EbwP-nZ_G5WnAIzUiXhTnAEpKB3Jq0KwCCT-j1InuPhNk8y482Q_TcdC_k/s1600/13+Courtyard+of+Tantallon+Castle.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGHGOcAoQQxNbyv-FMW7c6SZx1o4J0nggqde67UGI2loChkEhq3hMYLMxwOei7rXCS6PR1BUAEbjbarkrb6EbwP-nZ_G5WnAIzUiXhTnAEpKB3Jq0KwCCT-j1InuPhNk8y482Q_TcdC_k/s200/13+Courtyard+of+Tantallon+Castle.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard of Tantallon Castle</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">give you a real sense of the scale of the place.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two walls rose 5 stories and had halls and
rooms and battlements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The inside
courtyard was mostly open to the sea because they didn’t need battlements on
that side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was built around 1350, and
survived various sieges brought about by the lord’s shifting intrigues with </span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">the
royalty.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was finally rendered
uninhabitable by Cromwell’s army.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I knew
Cromwell had invaded and devastated Ireland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I didn’t realize he had done the same to Scotland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We really enjoyed wandering around.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEwOu5AVq9J3u197u2c-nBpaokkaNYaYBJOiyG-IvAyZ216fdE1I3Yq7hVhxDvowsQ782teqeFFME1FpBAtmILpXPOjW4zrqDGRJhVeuNkF6qlHTFI6k6kjMUrrCD1rwB4eEyxF_tan00/s1600/14+From+high+on+the+castle+walls.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEwOu5AVq9J3u197u2c-nBpaokkaNYaYBJOiyG-IvAyZ216fdE1I3Yq7hVhxDvowsQ782teqeFFME1FpBAtmILpXPOjW4zrqDGRJhVeuNkF6qlHTFI6k6kjMUrrCD1rwB4eEyxF_tan00/s200/14+From+high+on+the+castle+walls.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the heights</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvayx_zp4nza9SgjHl9Cf_JeLkdBCnLj4sW14Ax1MV_KVRr09bR56DLveaOkUxu54NPWKW3nlGSamhyphenhyphenNgcIIZww8_8avBzulL1qcqm-T9Q9KP8J__L9Isb_kU7w4Btm8m4a4qBBXZ7w0/s1600/15+Tantallon+Castle+recreation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijvayx_zp4nza9SgjHl9Cf_JeLkdBCnLj4sW14Ax1MV_KVRr09bR56DLveaOkUxu54NPWKW3nlGSamhyphenhyphenNgcIIZww8_8avBzulL1qcqm-T9Q9KP8J__L9Isb_kU7w4Btm8m4a4qBBXZ7w0/s200/15+Tantallon+Castle+recreation.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tantallon Castle about 1500</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBmqI4y7RFq1QUsCiF9Lr56sZo72CWDeqYyWnXVjPEbUBuhvGcRUgU4YKPQFahXKL_5mgAy2nzT1djC1TwotYq8gCcMYqe1vpgCMsGVLnxwkSHMxPZ-QSQyyPcY3Kl7KMykVW3y3ysUo/s1600/16+John+Muir+Birthpace.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXBmqI4y7RFq1QUsCiF9Lr56sZo72CWDeqYyWnXVjPEbUBuhvGcRUgU4YKPQFahXKL_5mgAy2nzT1djC1TwotYq8gCcMYqe1vpgCMsGVLnxwkSHMxPZ-QSQyyPcY3Kl7KMykVW3y3ysUo/s200/16+John+Muir+Birthpace.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John Muir birthpalce</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidmckJoJIe4HknDzVum4dy-FB4uC2PG093jLvskFjaEKBMoUSMOmvGeR0aWdUMKeDY6XxJkoxZlO-8iiEfyYeu0da0Eidflte1U9GykvTsIm7V5Hx2RwmjHCbx5QTxhRgi4aG_opu2kOM/s1600/17+John+Muir+Statue.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidmckJoJIe4HknDzVum4dy-FB4uC2PG093jLvskFjaEKBMoUSMOmvGeR0aWdUMKeDY6XxJkoxZlO-8iiEfyYeu0da0Eidflte1U9GykvTsIm7V5Hx2RwmjHCbx5QTxhRgi4aG_opu2kOM/s200/17+John+Muir+Statue.jpg" width="149" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">John Muir statue</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">The town of Dunbar is a
little further along the coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It also
has an intriguing harbor and was once a very busy fishing port.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Its new claim to fame is as the birthplace of
John Muir, one of the founders of the environmental movement.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He lived there until he was 11 when the
family moved to Wisconsin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Now the small
building has been turned into a good exhibit on his life and work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was very impressed with his writing:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Around my native town of Dunbar, I loved to
wander … along the seashore … and best of all to watch the waves in awful
storms thundering on the black headlands and craggy ruins of the old Dunbar
Castle, when the sea and the sky, the waves and the clouds, were mingled
together as one.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is especially
helpful to imagine this said in Muir’s Scottish accent.</span><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeZIamgI6l8g2H5kiTE2u8g7vSu3-Y4DmcwCYIhelsDTg11BbTILDffnXJr8lFbjnMk7dtWIDGZe_v4wmn3osWDNhl9GZ7iQLwVW-F3tf7fGvdbxgG7I1Oh2RUDy8yO2eGGc30RF5ZeQ/s1600/21+Dirleton+Castle+entrance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAeZIamgI6l8g2H5kiTE2u8g7vSu3-Y4DmcwCYIhelsDTg11BbTILDffnXJr8lFbjnMk7dtWIDGZe_v4wmn3osWDNhl9GZ7iQLwVW-F3tf7fGvdbxgG7I1Oh2RUDy8yO2eGGc30RF5ZeQ/s200/21+Dirleton+Castle+entrance.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to Dirleton Castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-VeZXNj4Kovdw5O8fX5b-yfT3kUZ3FNBKIoL0xu3ekkmrGnLRjx31wIfweoe6wGe-M_Ut05Fj2c8tGhIgua79EnyvuXx26F16cwfFb_w9vllO1jnr-FgB_rbYq8L52BujcFvJ6iuj9QA/s1600/22+Dirleton+Castle+courtyard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-VeZXNj4Kovdw5O8fX5b-yfT3kUZ3FNBKIoL0xu3ekkmrGnLRjx31wIfweoe6wGe-M_Ut05Fj2c8tGhIgua79EnyvuXx26F16cwfFb_w9vllO1jnr-FgB_rbYq8L52BujcFvJ6iuj9QA/s200/22+Dirleton+Castle+courtyard.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">To the west of NB we visited
another ruined castle in Dirleton.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
oldest parts date to the 13<sup>th</sup> century, but it went through two other
building phases when different families inherited it through marriage.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has very good signage with pictures of
what it looked like before it was a ruin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The most impressive parts here, and distinct from the other castle, were
the huge kitchen and bakery with gigantic fireplaces and ovens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also there is a very nice chapel off the
hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dungeon is right under
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is smaller than Tantallon, but
seemed like a much more pleasant place to live.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was also destroyed by Cromwell. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Saturday September 22, we had
an uneventful drive back to Glasgow, about an hour and a half, turned in our
car, and flew off to Vienna via Heathrow airport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We thoroughly enjoyed our two weeks in Great
Britain.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7nfinXPRf0dYiUX0WCOYQehKDOxXXeqWcwN3kgHRB3dDcj1apwtAHkupdudIFfW9fBwXesYZBNd5tu6mSmIPE-dLBXasdF5Ca17SALd1Hrrp1SmWDWKJCHb_hGynIPzIO3A-dQKsPsU/s1600/23+Alex+in+kitchen+fireplace.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7nfinXPRf0dYiUX0WCOYQehKDOxXXeqWcwN3kgHRB3dDcj1apwtAHkupdudIFfW9fBwXesYZBNd5tu6mSmIPE-dLBXasdF5Ca17SALd1Hrrp1SmWDWKJCHb_hGynIPzIO3A-dQKsPsU/s200/23+Alex+in+kitchen+fireplace.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitchen fireplace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih_YtCJZpXNR5vYluOTyHGDl54QkKwY8kmS_PQyhKUQKcyR4hqvkAdDD9FTlR9OJUW-ILMtVWdAZ-scNnDXAXcK5OVhNUGJrqPdkW6WoXxvFZ3D8nXlqZoUptulCug5cqwyqa_Y4hlTFQ/s1600/24+Dirleton+Castle+recreation.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih_YtCJZpXNR5vYluOTyHGDl54QkKwY8kmS_PQyhKUQKcyR4hqvkAdDD9FTlR9OJUW-ILMtVWdAZ-scNnDXAXcK5OVhNUGJrqPdkW6WoXxvFZ3D8nXlqZoUptulCug5cqwyqa_Y4hlTFQ/s320/24+Dirleton+Castle+recreation.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dirleton Castle in the 1500s</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-60310375939541562552012-09-23T02:04:00.000-07:002012-09-25T03:17:58.684-07:00Edinburgh<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Qc98-qhyLLIDqBdoPVhWjFV2iqWr7iUvcxb2MlEBvTWb1p3RLnS85zjeLgMUIkgkFmFm5ZompFYVXkn1MaLXzJe8UxrxFLXEhKkK8PmbOeplZ3U9PE1Isojcw-UBo91mDx0m-qrGei4/s1600/01+Edinburgh+skyline+&+train+station.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Qc98-qhyLLIDqBdoPVhWjFV2iqWr7iUvcxb2MlEBvTWb1p3RLnS85zjeLgMUIkgkFmFm5ZompFYVXkn1MaLXzJe8UxrxFLXEhKkK8PmbOeplZ3U9PE1Isojcw-UBo91mDx0m-qrGei4/s320/01+Edinburgh+skyline+&+train+station.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edinburgh skyline and train station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We spent three of our days
in Edinburgh.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a very nice fast
train that runs From North Berwick into the city centre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The city is quite compact and easy to walk
around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weather has continued to be
cool, mostly in the 50s, with occasional drizzle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our first day, we started off walking up to
the Castle, which is located on a basalt promontory called Castle Rock.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They recently had a big celebration in honor
of the Queen’s Jubilee in the Esplanade in front of the Castle, and were in the
process of removing the bleachers and stands, so some of the view was
blocked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOjg-nDXNW_RiUTvyOvKX9d3yJs5H0IRUKageS6a4Y1SwNJ5SXcF_AHotuKxNJdOxK_7xD9Lyb0izEoGYLF5Vld0ILwgfQd6LLp3cXNIeoWS1dwAYxn3zY3GEuA2zWtsBKXepnP2tFlgE/s1600/02+Edinburgh+Castle.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOjg-nDXNW_RiUTvyOvKX9d3yJs5H0IRUKageS6a4Y1SwNJ5SXcF_AHotuKxNJdOxK_7xD9Lyb0izEoGYLF5Vld0ILwgfQd6LLp3cXNIeoWS1dwAYxn3zY3GEuA2zWtsBKXepnP2tFlgE/s320/02+Edinburgh+Castle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edinburgh Castle</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Oddly enough, we had just
watched a rerun of the celebration on TV the night before.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">The castle is huge and imposing, of course. The oldest portion dates to the 12<sup>th</sup>
century, but many portions are much newer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We decided to just visit the forecourt and not pay to go inside as a lot
of the exhibits seemed to focus on military history.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRK1jQeDzZxYaIhKsnYRkP4ipKS7EnXOxEwC6TYOWpYKx-ioTEQAi9fAc0HzJ1G6INIb6tu0IaQXRNzkAx5bvUYn9fDlOy9lorIwOtCkhkSWiUcRqN9rw-HDaODTPt7ZAlg-TeokcSEZE/s1600/03+St+Giles+High+Kirk.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="273" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRK1jQeDzZxYaIhKsnYRkP4ipKS7EnXOxEwC6TYOWpYKx-ioTEQAi9fAc0HzJ1G6INIb6tu0IaQXRNzkAx5bvUYn9fDlOy9lorIwOtCkhkSWiUcRqN9rw-HDaODTPt7ZAlg-TeokcSEZE/s320/03+St+Giles+High+Kirk.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Giles High Kirk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We elected to spend our
first day just walking around the city.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>From the Castle, the main street of the Old Town proceeds for what is
known as the Royal Mile to the Queen’s Palace of Holyrood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is full of lots of shops, tourist
attractions, statues, old houses and narrow alleys.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The most magnificent building is the High
Kirk of St. Giles, which we did go into.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Its central tower is very distinctive and different, like an open work
crown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are many memorials to Scotland’s
famous thinkers and writers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also
asked them for directions to the Quaker Center, or at least the street it is
on!</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju5ivTB8gbsGCBEHeVTeg-urQzSXOA9ivVqpG2IsxEPoyXaLfEx-zuDz8ruMqb3pzp8gCZ1ioaCOEDpjnL_sbOPovP_CNweubk6WIFYGfm2QyTfRi7YgMuAzawRcqvnbQRAfZve2nisrY/s1600/04+Arthur%2527s+Seat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju5ivTB8gbsGCBEHeVTeg-urQzSXOA9ivVqpG2IsxEPoyXaLfEx-zuDz8ruMqb3pzp8gCZ1ioaCOEDpjnL_sbOPovP_CNweubk6WIFYGfm2QyTfRi7YgMuAzawRcqvnbQRAfZve2nisrY/s320/04+Arthur%2527s+Seat.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arthur's Seat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">The Royal Mile turns out
to be, in fact, about a mile long, and mostly downhill the way we were going,
so we did a lot of walking.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It ends at
the Palace that the Queen uses when she comes to the capital.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The new Parliament buildings are right down
there too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a pretty good example
of modern architecture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Since Parliament
was in session, they were not doing tours, and we also elected not to go into
the Palace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That end of town is
dominated by another basalt cliff called Arthur’s Seat, and some other hills,
all of which have stayed open land.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDR-ne4HHt-8-_PkZwsMUAGVvhEN39NfO_P8dkizlO-z5s7ObcmcDArH82M39FEyAh0BSpRJg_FISVqJnYwAhc3-CwP5D_knFJyukcvVGA5nVJnKPMy2xNdkOu7gcBoklUt_7c_aFcAE4/s1600/06+Greyfriars+Bobby.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDR-ne4HHt-8-_PkZwsMUAGVvhEN39NfO_P8dkizlO-z5s7ObcmcDArH82M39FEyAh0BSpRJg_FISVqJnYwAhc3-CwP5D_knFJyukcvVGA5nVJnKPMy2xNdkOu7gcBoklUt_7c_aFcAE4/s320/06+Greyfriars+Bobby.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Greyfriar's Bobby</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We walked back up a street
parallel to the Royal Mile, a much more normal business street, bordering on
the University district.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We sought out a
statue commemorating Greyfriar’s Bobby, a Skye Terrier who stayed by his
master’s graveside for 14 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
reminded us of a similar dog statue in Wellington.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wikipedia tells me that this is probably an
urban myth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Probably stray dogs found
that graveyards were good places to hang out because people would feed and
fuss over them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People liked making up a
story about a loyal dog, and the caretaker often found it to his advantage to
play up the myth.</span>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlg5frAJ_vgfkZSRTdVYzdoFj6GAYSQwPsTgUG0r27OzACwWY08WisEdD9D3R2pgi-gy9PoExXUhtmTWdGH7Z2jH8DYg3HkBGhhnxeknUwOkPmBHOsHjvrKQmCsz3fRMaW-LYi1NrroU/s1600/05+Quaker+Centre.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlg5frAJ_vgfkZSRTdVYzdoFj6GAYSQwPsTgUG0r27OzACwWY08WisEdD9D3R2pgi-gy9PoExXUhtmTWdGH7Z2jH8DYg3HkBGhhnxeknUwOkPmBHOsHjvrKQmCsz3fRMaW-LYi1NrroU/s320/05+Quaker+Centre.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quaker Center on Victoria Terrace</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">We found the Quaker Centre
on Victoria Terrace, which is a pedestrian balcony that runs above and
alongside Victoria Street, which plunges downhill.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the end of the terrace, you are two
stories above the road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We returned to
Edinburgh on Wednesday to attend the midweek Meeting for Worship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We first went up all the way to the third
floor where the main Meeting Room is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is a magnificent setting high above the city, but it was also clear that it was
not where the people were.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So we went
down a floor to the library and found the group.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were about 14 of us, and it was a very
nice silent meeting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We visited with a
number of people afterwards, including a young man from Guilford College
starting a year at Edinburgh University.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Just down at the end of the Terrace was the Scottish Genealogical
Society.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We went in to see if I could
find anything more about the first Bell that I know of, who is reputed to have
been born in Scotland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, no
real luck, but the volunteer helping me was very nice.</span><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lw9Av37a_PilLxsw036M91E1FIb5Ki4Xe29vBXTv9OrauF0SWmIo0sPqFUmUixMfIuG_Cqz645EbzH5160WNNbQkI2IZO2XCN93vVwTP6Po9vfDg9NxDIqh1fPfoJti7i5hFC-lIfIU/s1600/07+Edinburgh+Theseus.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5lw9Av37a_PilLxsw036M91E1FIb5Ki4Xe29vBXTv9OrauF0SWmIo0sPqFUmUixMfIuG_Cqz645EbzH5160WNNbQkI2IZO2XCN93vVwTP6Po9vfDg9NxDIqh1fPfoJti7i5hFC-lIfIU/s320/07+Edinburgh+Theseus.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Theseus Temple Vienna version</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">Wednesday before Meeting
for Worship, we also went to find the Edinburgh version of the Temple of
Hephaestus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Part of the façade of the
Old Royal Grammar School is based on this Temple, and we are collecting photos
(see Penshaw monument recorded on the drive to Scotland).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked a bit around the New Town, which
was built up as a new business district in the 19<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we visited the Writer’s Museum, which is
a small house off the Royal Mile dedicated to Robert Burns, Walter Scott, and
Robert Louis Stevenson.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I learned a
lot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Burns grew up in a farming family
and was known as the plowman poet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He
was part of a revival of the Scottish language and culture.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sir Walter Scott came about 12 years later
and was the only one of the 3 to live a long life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is so revered by the Scots that there is a
huge memorial to him in Edinburgh – a statue under a gothic spire as tall as
most church spires.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was the first
English language novelist to receive great international recognition during his
lifetime.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The train station in Edinburgh
is named after his novel Waverley, supposedly the only station named after a
novel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is nice that the city has at
least as many statues of writers and philosophers as it does kings and
generals.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAKUZUKbMTc9DzSXHLVZnLG2TUlHX-04rV_dmsDMmmOHmo9xLwB_ACL9zSfiZFwSeR_GxKMMEsI36WmsiiDrMfmxWTaa0M0In_H_Uy2TKC1uhw5RM9WJaEj91SFO_3eKYD5DyHc-GW8M/s1600/08+Adam+Smith.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAKUZUKbMTc9DzSXHLVZnLG2TUlHX-04rV_dmsDMmmOHmo9xLwB_ACL9zSfiZFwSeR_GxKMMEsI36WmsiiDrMfmxWTaa0M0In_H_Uy2TKC1uhw5RM9WJaEj91SFO_3eKYD5DyHc-GW8M/s320/08+Adam+Smith.jpg" width="239" /></a>The rest of our time in
Edinburgh we spent in the National Museum - Wednesday afternoon and most of
Thursday - looking at their exhibits on Scottish history and prehistory.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I also viewed their exhibit on Scottish
geology.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I learned that Scotland and
England mostly have been on different tectonic plates.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Until recently, Scotland was part of the North
American plate, but when the Atlantic Ocean opened up, fairly recently geologically
speaking, Scotland separated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then
England banged into it and they have been uncomfortably <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>merged ever since.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Otherwise, Scotland’s geological history
seemed pretty similar to the English history I had seen in Kendal, but these
exhibits were much better done – really good clear fossils and dioramas in
particular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was also lots of
interesting information about the medieval and renaissance period and the
nobility and the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We enjoyed it,
but museums are also exhausting too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was always pleasant to come back to our small town and take a walk on the
beach.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQAKUZUKbMTc9DzSXHLVZnLG2TUlHX-04rV_dmsDMmmOHmo9xLwB_ACL9zSfiZFwSeR_GxKMMEsI36WmsiiDrMfmxWTaa0M0In_H_Uy2TKC1uhw5RM9WJaEj91SFO_3eKYD5DyHc-GW8M/s1600/08+Adam+Smith.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-26565039499553908412012-09-20T10:22:00.003-07:002012-09-21T14:36:01.796-07:00The drive to Scotland<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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bright, clear, windy, and cool morning, we left our little cottage to drive to
Scotland.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We chose to drive east through
the Dales, which is also hilly country, but more rolling and less craggy than
the Lakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgft3oQ4Oj67WUI0LHAI8YFd2hGwgJeVd5l5NdpVStqgzqJmnGvnvtLWs2AZdlsCZr3JrTMHP7af6v_b3Cox2_HkEOdwyldM8iGdI65OBuZ3FDnlVal1cmj6tCcOG4dl7TT4mg_D3apoU0/s1600/1+Durham+Cathedral.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgft3oQ4Oj67WUI0LHAI8YFd2hGwgJeVd5l5NdpVStqgzqJmnGvnvtLWs2AZdlsCZr3JrTMHP7af6v_b3Cox2_HkEOdwyldM8iGdI65OBuZ3FDnlVal1cmj6tCcOG4dl7TT4mg_D3apoU0/s320/1+Durham+Cathedral.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Durham Catherdral</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very much sheep
country, with fewer trees as we headed east.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We were on a reasonably major road, so it felt wide enough not to panic
every time a car or truck approached.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Our first goal was the town of Durham, which used to be a major power
center in the north of England, but now is mostly a university town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was reasonably easy to drive into the town
center and park.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The dominating feature
is the Cathedral, which is huge and magnificent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From early on, the bishops were the actual
rulers of the area, not any earl or duke, and the bishop was known as the
Prince Bishop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4lfcmAo-yjP0T_-4dHtW0ghVn9PNKTk9N4CJP6ZwtZxLeAgEihp0V571ZBQA4tfdK8s9dy_OVu_zes_IY4A4yyTQb8c1fLPOyCXs6AF5RmEGn2uPLR3JCuu0sk9eLTico9B04ezk0oQ/s1600/2+Durham+Castle.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD4lfcmAo-yjP0T_-4dHtW0ghVn9PNKTk9N4CJP6ZwtZxLeAgEihp0V571ZBQA4tfdK8s9dy_OVu_zes_IY4A4yyTQb8c1fLPOyCXs6AF5RmEGn2uPLR3JCuu0sk9eLTico9B04ezk0oQ/s320/2+Durham+Castle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Durham Castle Tower</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>It was only a couple of
hundred years ago that the crown officially regained administration over
Durham.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>St. Cuthbert is the patron saint
buried in the Cathedral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He brought
Christianity to the North.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is often
pictured holding a king’s head because King Oswald’s head is also buried in the
tomb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t know why.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Venerable Bede, the 8<sup>th</sup>
Century chronicler of the early English church, is also buried there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYqhE3KxAu3PFgPBRcZQeRH_xL2irEfcH7-_gWAH2JRydZ-Z6h5Rm1LaDRMtqr2ahOofuSs9BadvEFLAVUfZiWFr0KrfLncAXj4iX7iexpARzOkOWk26cXch3m8kh1Gj2PLmnUNtA4Wfs/s1600/4+Durham+market+square.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYqhE3KxAu3PFgPBRcZQeRH_xL2irEfcH7-_gWAH2JRydZ-Z6h5Rm1LaDRMtqr2ahOofuSs9BadvEFLAVUfZiWFr0KrfLncAXj4iX7iexpARzOkOWk26cXch3m8kh1Gj2PLmnUNtA4Wfs/s320/4+Durham+market+square.jpg" width="194" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Durham market square</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>The town also has a castle but there was a
special event happening and we weren’t allowed in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were amazed to discover a La Tasca tapas restaurant
to eat lunch in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>La Tasca is one of our
favorite Rockville eateries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We learned
that La Tasca is a UK chain with over 50 locations here and fewer than 10 is
the US.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also were amused to come upon
the market square which was quite busy on a Saturday with stalls and
amusements.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A modern adaptation of a
medieval activity.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqY912mcA4YczAIQgeltIVmasVDC84uh27oiWU_lxMSp5KN_zJckNgwKdJc5O7nq2EPOD9g2AFXRvTUNb2GKeJ_NXw9i8iyQ9IsUjU8Tloaamh7StMXapzNn0IR8vKvGHrBPoXpQBKm4/s1600/10+Penshaw.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSqY912mcA4YczAIQgeltIVmasVDC84uh27oiWU_lxMSp5KN_zJckNgwKdJc5O7nq2EPOD9g2AFXRvTUNb2GKeJ_NXw9i8iyQ9IsUjU8Tloaamh7StMXapzNn0IR8vKvGHrBPoXpQBKm4/s320/10+Penshaw.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penshaw Monument 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Our next stop was about 20
miles away to the Earl of Durham Memorial, more commonly known as the Penshaw
monument.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>High on a hill is a
reproduction of the Temple of Hephaestus from Athens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(It has sometimes been called the Theseus
Temple, but that was an erroneous attribution.)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The temple in Athens is one of the best preserved, so it has been copied
in many places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have a print at home
of the reproduced Temple in Vienna, a lithograph created by August Julius
Wetteroth in the 1850s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQKsEo_BNbUnJ3aSHXSmKI1dSAVg7khKIHjW6m_LlEupHZuiQnzpY62MfUTQmvexRw1FUIYCPI_qS340s-pV9W94YEfP9t0sA_qVp9raN_5fVKC3hcyzTo4P0Q4fPNr_gwYz729UT_WI/s1600/11+Penshaw.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQKsEo_BNbUnJ3aSHXSmKI1dSAVg7khKIHjW6m_LlEupHZuiQnzpY62MfUTQmvexRw1FUIYCPI_qS340s-pV9W94YEfP9t0sA_qVp9raN_5fVKC3hcyzTo4P0Q4fPNr_gwYz729UT_WI/s320/11+Penshaw.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penshaw Monument 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">He is a distant cousin of Ron.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We will also see a version of the temple in Edinburgh.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is one in Dayton OH and Montpelier VT.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Now we continued up the A1
along the coast to our destination in North Berwick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Along the way we could see the ruined
monastery at Lindisfarne, where St. Cuthbert was prior and bishop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a dramatic setting, but it was too late
to drive over to see it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides it is
one of those places with a causeway to the island which is covered at high
tide.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUJVhV4I57nC9FqgMNCR8rnfKMMGoD8u9OyChfM6JMgQ2_tCPtCR3lTHdFx0gWZ8S5hF25x_MPC8iYbEJqDUSp94XXHgB_jYIBA652SUfad4x7cLk5JufLAi7-2OFy_r9IHlaVb6SESh0/s1600/14+Penshaw.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUJVhV4I57nC9FqgMNCR8rnfKMMGoD8u9OyChfM6JMgQ2_tCPtCR3lTHdFx0gWZ8S5hF25x_MPC8iYbEJqDUSp94XXHgB_jYIBA652SUfad4x7cLk5JufLAi7-2OFy_r9IHlaVb6SESh0/s320/14+Penshaw.jpg" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from monument</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">We arrived at North
Berwick (pronounced, we finally discovered, as berrick) about 5 o’clock,
collected our key, found our apartment, and moved in, only to discover that the
smoke detector was beeping every 30 seconds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We walked back to the shop where we had collected the key and called the
emergency number.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A human being answered
and said they would fix the problem.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Then we walked on to the train station to check the schedule for Sunday
because we wanted to go into Edinburgh for Meeting for Worship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found that the first train was at 12:30
while meeting was at 10:30.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not
auspicious beginnings!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, when we
got back to the apartment, the maintenance man was there and he replaced the alarm
battery and turned on the heat and hot water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>So things began to look up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
also figured this gave us an excuse to go out to dinner at the Indian
restaurant we had passed on the High Street.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqddedIGwWtWXuY3YfIdmYAf1b7Co5NU-1N4YcV020DEPdBIhzlGhRv8VClcFBmWLaFicPkSk8BpekRjTiPx_PFCzU_2LIZkUK77JPn4AEYhoPDmCQjohNgoS-glOMOY2m9gBca9Ak72A/s1600/13+Penshaw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqddedIGwWtWXuY3YfIdmYAf1b7Co5NU-1N4YcV020DEPdBIhzlGhRv8VClcFBmWLaFicPkSk8BpekRjTiPx_PFCzU_2LIZkUK77JPn4AEYhoPDmCQjohNgoS-glOMOY2m9gBca9Ak72A/s320/13+Penshaw.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Earl of Durham plaque</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZIUcOeysLXcTHSjOzDz4T0DVZvNoL_NeruWcIiIlhITZ4fZ8u82sy4np19T98Gyn1CoI2JYZ1nJQE6stWvHrHlHJdaJoXrJF8oAfhAsTS3FQpwp-O4ikUDF0zgOO5TE41RnatG_YOego/s1600/3+Durham+Castle+apology.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-15646224015854421682012-09-18T14:29:00.000-07:002012-09-20T09:53:15.226-07:00Swarthmoor Hall and last day in Cumbria<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Thursday September 13 we
drove to Ulverston, about 20 miles south west of our cottage near the coast, to
go to Swarthmoor Hall for a Meeting for Worship at 12:30, and to visit the Hall itself. We </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">drove through Ulverston and
through the village of Swarthmoor without seeing any signs, so we circled back
on a back road and finally found a sign near the train station that directed us
to a half mile footpath to the Hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
walk took us between a school and a wall separating us from the back yards of a
row of houses, then down a hill, over a stream, through two fields and finally
to a lane that led to the house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7ozFgeQVQ_u20EBE1lkLw4GIoy7eg_p5aopiA31cC1buKoXmuS_l79DR4-mulWAnrbo3uskrcvKHvQK9nidDtw0KEN5uWZc31zfBWYtw3Cw0RKGG8shzUeMGU-RuTO6yvBuXFJsE6Xo/s1600/20+Swarthmoor+Hall+1.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc7ozFgeQVQ_u20EBE1lkLw4GIoy7eg_p5aopiA31cC1buKoXmuS_l79DR4-mulWAnrbo3uskrcvKHvQK9nidDtw0KEN5uWZc31zfBWYtw3Cw0RKGG8shzUeMGU-RuTO6yvBuXFJsE6Xo/s320/20+Swarthmoor+Hall+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swarthmoor Hal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">There
is an office/visitor center there which was staffed, so she was able to give us
a map so we could drive back. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Hall
is not normally open for visitors until the afternoon, we found out, and there
was a retreat going on, so we did walk back and get the car.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It turned out that there was adequate signage
going back, just not the way we came.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
had time to stop at the Meeting House, which is just a couple of blocks from
the Hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is still used regularly,
but midweek it was locked up, and also surrounded by a high stone wall which
made it seem very defensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I don’t
know if they felt the need for defense, or if it is just that walls were normal
back then.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Swarthmoor is not a pretty
building to look at from the outside, just grey stucco or concrete, but it is
very pleasant inside.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is famous among
Quakers as the home of Margaret Fell, the founding mother of Quakerism, and as
a refuge for Quakers during the early years of persecution.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It eventually left the family and fell into
disrepair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In 1914, a descendant, Ms.
Abraham, repurchased the house and started to restore it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the ‘50s it was donated to the Society of
Friends (Quakers). </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Meeting for Worship was held
in the Great Hall, which is lined with wood paneling installed (and carved!) by
Ms. Abraham.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were about 24 people
there because of the retreat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Afterwards, we had the traditional tea and biscuits and chatted with
some of the participants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we were
able to take the tour with audio phones that did a good, and lengthy, job of
explaining the history of both the house and the Quakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdA64BxUbwzuRNWSHmrNst7ShG87ZBee2DlDxf7e-hXodoJSZJnGMrYqrY9AyI2iuv6USaeJSI6_TC-qefSTk0z8B7S3mmUF35h4VzSzfZURZHXgybYDUPAOSPHZei9B08Y8UcKrITBoE/s1600/21+Bay+Winndow+at+Swarthmoor+Hall.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdA64BxUbwzuRNWSHmrNst7ShG87ZBee2DlDxf7e-hXodoJSZJnGMrYqrY9AyI2iuv6USaeJSI6_TC-qefSTk0z8B7S3mmUF35h4VzSzfZURZHXgybYDUPAOSPHZei9B08Y8UcKrITBoE/s320/21+Bay+Winndow+at+Swarthmoor+Hall.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swarthmoor bay window</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">George Fox visited the area
early in his ministry and convinced Margaret Fell when she heard him preaching
at the church.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Apparently the churches
in those days often had lecture days when it was acceptable for members of the
audience to stand and speak or dispute with the minister.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Margaret was gentry, and married to Judge
Fell, an important magistrate in the district.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Margaret invited Fox to stay at the Hall.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She worried about whether she would end up
with a conflict between pleasing God and pleasing her husband.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When the Judge returned, he was warned on the
way that his wife had been bewitched.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, he came with an open mind and respected Margaret’s convincement
and allowed the house to be used by the Quakers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although he never formally joined, and indeed
did not participate in Quaker Meeting, he would sit in his study next door with
the door open and listen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His patronage
protected Quakers in the area until his death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Eventually Margaret and George married, although they didn’t actually
live together very often, since they both traveled a lot or were in jail.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwTadpRZRV1EPnf8CJbrtzGxzZytbbZUohkcHxMxgjUdXZjJPlLT-wkHcU2k8KpN2OIeOCVe8nNcfN-HLf2Aucu4m1f3mVZYDYieM9818pFif0y2bBJ3OEy5TF1UvhS1vSKuYiDTC8B1A/s1600/21+Waterside+Cafe+Kendal.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwTadpRZRV1EPnf8CJbrtzGxzZytbbZUohkcHxMxgjUdXZjJPlLT-wkHcU2k8KpN2OIeOCVe8nNcfN-HLf2Aucu4m1f3mVZYDYieM9818pFif0y2bBJ3OEy5TF1UvhS1vSKuYiDTC8B1A/s320/21+Waterside+Cafe+Kendal.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kendal riverside cafe</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">The rooms in the Hall are
large and well lighted, which is the main reason they felt so pleasant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are filled with an eclectic array of
furniture from the time period, but not original to the house, except perhaps
for one bed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first floor has the
great hall and the judge’s study, an entrance hall and staircase.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second floor had three spacious bedrooms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The third story was one large room,
originally probably both the servants quarters and a workroom.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had a large exhibit about the history of
the house, the various stages of building, remodeling, decay, and restoration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaT9atdVdKXf4oUHG8IW8TadkZbHtD5g_uktlZ-KsMvRYsTZCueIGiGxLO8NGuRvhbxlPKVMUT3d6LjJycX_OTqy4wEn-9zkQFuJ95KQp_dDz7ECZm2u_mop5oc1wDKpadQ0EAzviTJA/s1600/22+Kendal+Parish+Church.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVaT9atdVdKXf4oUHG8IW8TadkZbHtD5g_uktlZ-KsMvRYsTZCueIGiGxLO8NGuRvhbxlPKVMUT3d6LjJycX_OTqy4wEn-9zkQFuJ95KQp_dDz7ECZm2u_mop5oc1wDKpadQ0EAzviTJA/s320/22+Kendal+Parish+Church.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kendal Parish Church</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">About a third of the house has been converted
into modern suites used for visitors like the people participating in the
retreat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Where a barn had been there is
now additional meeting space and an apartment for the caretaker, and also the
building for the offices and volunteers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are quite a few gardens around the house also.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By the way, the history said that the
footpath we originally followed was probably the main access route until the 19<sup>th</sup>
century when the roadways were built.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFisK0LsoqFCSkxbILpV_uJZU7V5RLm5YBq_JxYydkCnnR4vfQRGoSHRc4YQ4X3Kd6X9t4qpKTv68MLvEGSceODc4VoG6QYxpYijkxuQtUao6pdpssnFo5vSJO5E2czAH_p5F6ZUOAac/s1600/23+Kendal+Street+2.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPFisK0LsoqFCSkxbILpV_uJZU7V5RLm5YBq_JxYydkCnnR4vfQRGoSHRc4YQ4X3Kd6X9t4qpKTv68MLvEGSceODc4VoG6QYxpYijkxuQtUao6pdpssnFo5vSJO5E2czAH_p5F6ZUOAac/s320/23+Kendal+Street+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kendal street view</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">After we were done with
Swarthmoor, we drove back to Kendal for lunch at a vegetarian café there next
to the river, and walked around for a while taking photos of various places we
liked, but it was too late to do anything.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzleZdWFKCSffMmewX3amKgl_-OLCtz7ivBp1RZoniOt5gsv9t2V42Ga-KA4mZSSv6lEDixsMkLw4U6jbO0Y6xSL8zwMGLb3YPvJbyWnL4TZ6peFzhRn7xn5d-CJPAMYbcXom_lJqaSco/s1600/24+Crosthwaite+Church+.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzleZdWFKCSffMmewX3amKgl_-OLCtz7ivBp1RZoniOt5gsv9t2V42Ga-KA4mZSSv6lEDixsMkLw4U6jbO0Y6xSL8zwMGLb3YPvJbyWnL4TZ6peFzhRn7xn5d-CJPAMYbcXom_lJqaSco/s320/24+Crosthwaite+Church+.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Mary's church Crosthwaite</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Friday was our day of
rest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About ten o’clock we heard the changes
being rung in the church across the road, so we walked over there and were
finally able to get inside for a look.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It is a nice country church – I am glad it was finally open.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we took a walk along a footpath past the
cemetery, up a lane and then back home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>After doing laundry and eating lunch, we went back into Kendal to go to
the local museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had a very eclectic
range of exhibits from prehistoric stone tools through Roman occupation and
medieval life to the 20<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnXj60yebdj9SoFYGYa8c4tK7ja0u8z7ruaYFYLKfhdUjOhA7Fi-QqZRR5QbWp4xkOz4evFH31y4hnC47vkTscwlh2_iDZ3HIQ1dkkt2E6BFwt5YOGUNDK-cT4bs5zF-v4QFyNqoskXk/s1600/25+St+Mary%27s+Crosthwaithe.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnXj60yebdj9SoFYGYa8c4tK7ja0u8z7ruaYFYLKfhdUjOhA7Fi-QqZRR5QbWp4xkOz4evFH31y4hnC47vkTscwlh2_iDZ3HIQ1dkkt2E6BFwt5YOGUNDK-cT4bs5zF-v4QFyNqoskXk/s320/25+St+Mary%27s+Crosthwaithe.jpg" width="246" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside St. Mary's</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>There was a nice little exhibit about Arthur Eddington, a Quaker and
famous physicist who was born and raised in Kendal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second floor had a great geology display
about the different rock strata that can be found throughout the Lakes District
going back 450 million years ago.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I love
reading this stuff even though I don’t necessarily absorb it all – I love the
sweep of geological eons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This exhibit
was clearer than most about continental drift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Apparently 450 million years ago England was down around the
equator.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has been underwater 2 or 3
times and experienced various episodes of mountain building, either volcanic or
uplift.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes it has been dry as the
Sahara.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had been interested in a limestone ridge
that we drive over to get to Kendal – it is a very dramatic escarpment, and
apparently it is one of the well-known features and the second oldest rock in
the area.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This floor also had stuffed
animals, so we could look at little hedgehogs and eagles, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A thoroughly worthwhile museum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This was our last day in Cumbria and we
greatly enjoyed our visit.</span></div>
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from our cottage</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Ju3kaQuAI5uc4OJ_hvTCZ0rOIYjJRACrHFg8jH8KOEHcXpcY99_qrCz-9V1sz7pLx1bEBNLi2jZUtc2EX2cpKGb9BZP0B4GVnmyrKf4_GkfVtUpdOF44UY-9RR5s5WRd4m3YfzxLR8E/s1600/27+English+Oak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_Ju3kaQuAI5uc4OJ_hvTCZ0rOIYjJRACrHFg8jH8KOEHcXpcY99_qrCz-9V1sz7pLx1bEBNLi2jZUtc2EX2cpKGb9BZP0B4GVnmyrKf4_GkfVtUpdOF44UY-9RR5s5WRd4m3YfzxLR8E/s320/27+English+Oak.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">English oak</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<![endif]-->AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-50264055418107663712012-09-16T13:20:00.001-07:002012-09-16T13:20:53.805-07:00Lakes District<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBLnX0os8EqgJZas0QkX5s5DC7sajSNMh3nCwjJSOjpuin4GQbm8T3A4ixg0yEPalOFLGZoMfuyjohWkI0DZzu1E_Y-H6JOaFIFAxiKf6BiQRq2gRFEHLhhMS48akYqlCjhIbx6WjRFw/s1600/01+Bowness+Ferry.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibBLnX0os8EqgJZas0QkX5s5DC7sajSNMh3nCwjJSOjpuin4GQbm8T3A4ixg0yEPalOFLGZoMfuyjohWkI0DZzu1E_Y-H6JOaFIFAxiKf6BiQRq2gRFEHLhhMS48akYqlCjhIbx6WjRFw/s320/01+Bowness+Ferry.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferry across Lake Windermere</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />
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Tuesday morning we set off for Lake Windermere, only 8 miles
or so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lakes are all set in their
individual valleys, surrounded by varying hills.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are all very picturesque, and have been
developed over the last 100 years into tourist meccas, partly for their natural
beauty and partly for their historical associations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdnBQlmOW9WCShI3vlWJNT3HgkN5THQF3asdhIfhiWIt5JDgZlUQVNa10Dyg_RsAxtIt-Kx_brvZ_OKd6OKQmWILM-u34kld5q-bmzz9Q0-UeHLuS0YN7ESe1AcXccchizxtge7de0Sg/s1600/01+Windemere+Cruiser.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmdnBQlmOW9WCShI3vlWJNT3HgkN5THQF3asdhIfhiWIt5JDgZlUQVNa10Dyg_RsAxtIt-Kx_brvZ_OKd6OKQmWILM-u34kld5q-bmzz9Q0-UeHLuS0YN7ESe1AcXccchizxtge7de0Sg/s320/01+Windemere+Cruiser.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steamer on Lake Windermere</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
By coming in September, we are avoiding the
worst of the traffic, but it will still be an interesting juggling of
compromises, because we are, of course, tourists, and we want to see many of
the historical sights, but we also want to avoid crowds and commercialism.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we reached the lake, at
Bowness-on-Windermere, we found a car park in order to take a ferry across the
lake at its narrowest point.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is possible
to take the car on the ferry, but we went as walkers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our goal was Hilltop House, where Beatrix
Potter lived for many years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Scenes in
her books are drawn from many actual places in the Lakes District.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5-Bcm5oAYwxnCkDFKjeoL9Jq0Pwgyli4TJVn_MGi7JFwAEzfoEPD21VKGOGrbV6OjCGzO8bKH5N8rwQmUon7kg03VaWyMEkwByagtqGW78QaoZ2Dpawgi4jIRAefMAeiZCUtvI1vLC4/s1600/03+Near+Sawrey+with+berries.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS5-Bcm5oAYwxnCkDFKjeoL9Jq0Pwgyli4TJVn_MGi7JFwAEzfoEPD21VKGOGrbV6OjCGzO8bKH5N8rwQmUon7kg03VaWyMEkwByagtqGW78QaoZ2Dpawgi4jIRAefMAeiZCUtvI1vLC4/s320/03+Near+Sawrey+with+berries.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Footpath to Near Sawry with blackberries</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is about a mile hike up hill from the ferry
to Near Sawry where her house is, so we felt like we were definitely getting
our exercise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It took an hour up but
only a half hour down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sometimes we
walked on a footpath, sometimes in the road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There were blackberries along the way to sustain us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The village is very cute, and the house and
gardens well preserved.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a timed
entry ticket, so we had time to eat lunch at an Inn next door – mushroom soup
and bread.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Soup and bread has become the
standard lunch as it seems to be reliably vegetarian and inexpensive.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoAzZSa6LvykGFcuKQ-QO7weLpizlYy6rusPEN81IjDplsFi9Uk5gjzz41tY3RsnZj7yZk4n0ZlArr1ThoOpQ7QtErFwZc_9W7KyoL-An6olqsbSrduENNBwAcpdL4xxP7jx4siVMwjWs/s1600/02+Alex+at+Hilltop.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoAzZSa6LvykGFcuKQ-QO7weLpizlYy6rusPEN81IjDplsFi9Uk5gjzz41tY3RsnZj7yZk4n0ZlArr1ThoOpQ7QtErFwZc_9W7KyoL-An6olqsbSrduENNBwAcpdL4xxP7jx4siVMwjWs/s320/02+Alex+at+Hilltop.jpg" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hilltop House</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Also the weather has turned cooler with
passing showers, so hot food is appreciated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Beatrix Potter was well aware of her popularity by the time she died,
and she willed her house and a number of other properties to the National
Trust. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was very specific about how
the house should look and the furniture arranged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By our standards, it is small and dark.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the garden we actually saw a rabbit, so
that was fun.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdfTyVhD_i0VvxYn3wxID7X8p-V3LPDGx-q5AEJpna3_KzYDF2VI47nw12lzoQAa5d8RZMArtK1doDck8IzqqsWYHdb5hD4G-bn6z8Y5cf0dD8juG3VGUMwUE0SRH-Mc_5JZxq05rQYw/s1600/04+Near+Sawrey.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdfTyVhD_i0VvxYn3wxID7X8p-V3LPDGx-q5AEJpna3_KzYDF2VI47nw12lzoQAa5d8RZMArtK1doDck8IzqqsWYHdb5hD4G-bn6z8Y5cf0dD8juG3VGUMwUE0SRH-Mc_5JZxq05rQYw/s320/04+Near+Sawrey.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical Near Sawry building</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After our walk back down to the ferry, we checked out
Blackwell House, an Arts and Crafts House.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We had lovely scones in their tea room, and I had hot chocolate, and we
looked around their gift shop, which had lots of crafts by current artists, but
we decided not to go in – too expensive and not really something that interests
us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWY8eaG9UK8HGWZ4qTvlqKQOnicHL1nn_jQdRAyM4qtnurFOrQ6KlPf-Ju_yLcEsFISbXMcqAOz5kTklCBlP_h32Ur7ODGRcX9N5qk-QSeybcGtE3sq2l9XcI0doozq7d30pooYIZWC0/s1600/05+Lake+Windemere.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzWY8eaG9UK8HGWZ4qTvlqKQOnicHL1nn_jQdRAyM4qtnurFOrQ6KlPf-Ju_yLcEsFISbXMcqAOz5kTklCBlP_h32Ur7ODGRcX9N5qk-QSeybcGtE3sq2l9XcI0doozq7d30pooYIZWC0/s320/05+Lake+Windemere.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lake Windermere in distance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took a really back way home over
a hilltop which gave us a great view of Lake Windermere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The next day I saw a painting from almost our
viewpoint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have started to enjoy
driving on these narrow hill roads.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Luckily, there is very little traffic, because it still seems pretty
narrow when you meet a car coming from the opposite direction.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When we got home, we had time to take a nice
walk down the lane here.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginEC7uku9sDh0BZINEaI7YPj8lWmKVUdfwkodnzVrywSf3NYCTkTB-QJ-zJpkNovt9hrfnQZvW0z6QECBEywAeuoPQmuNEwcedi2qSf9vlNpMH-w3RIpc3Sjyb42W_w-18IvUh952xWc/s1600/06+Ron+at+Dove+Cottage.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEginEC7uku9sDh0BZINEaI7YPj8lWmKVUdfwkodnzVrywSf3NYCTkTB-QJ-zJpkNovt9hrfnQZvW0z6QECBEywAeuoPQmuNEwcedi2qSf9vlNpMH-w3RIpc3Sjyb42W_w-18IvUh952xWc/s320/06+Ron+at+Dove+Cottage.jpg" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dove Cottage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wednesday, we drove north to Grasmere and Dove Cottage where
William Wordsworth lived for 8 years with his sister Dorothy and then his wife
Mary, plus a couple of friends (Coleridge and De Quincey), and eventually 4
children, until they decided they needed a bigger house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, the rooms were small by modern
standards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At least here they had coal
fires going so it was easier to imagine how the house felt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wordsworth had to find himself some privacy
in order to write away from the domestic busyness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3y0tThIH05xRGZstQbhJss-ZwXDECX_JLKyZhHzcWuPAQxWGZmnxnn_0-BRtjJXSYJjX2HK2zwCo_ESbzXweXE-Y10m7t6AwLDfuSM9IqZvzNuIn0JdTyP8rCs2XJv2fcV1Oi1jQlamg/s1600/07+Beatrix+Potter+Gallery+Hawkshead.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3y0tThIH05xRGZstQbhJss-ZwXDECX_JLKyZhHzcWuPAQxWGZmnxnn_0-BRtjJXSYJjX2HK2zwCo_ESbzXweXE-Y10m7t6AwLDfuSM9IqZvzNuIn0JdTyP8rCs2XJv2fcV1Oi1jQlamg/s320/07+Beatrix+Potter+Gallery+Hawkshead.jpg" width="231" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beatrix Potter Gallery</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On the other hand, he also liked to do a lot
of the gardening, and wasn’t afraid of physical work.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Everyone would walk miles to visit
friends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a quite decent museum
next to the house with interesting information about the poet and the Lakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was an exhibit about a project to try
and reproduce by photograph many watercolor pictures of the Lakes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Often, the photographer could get quite
close, but other times trees had grown up since.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You could get a good idea of when the painter
was trying to be more dramatic, and when he was being accurate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis_M0hoT5ViCoadnnwIyCEj1xb3Xwudoj3_ciDQgVrMz60BIYQuzvTsb-wR92IR4h_hzgQTsmIkdnawsq-vhFENJXPNCaUvQyclNE9rWTAHf8Ckk9ir1oClqnhWPniyGp9ywO7sTQWM-o/s1600/08+Lake+Coniston.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis_M0hoT5ViCoadnnwIyCEj1xb3Xwudoj3_ciDQgVrMz60BIYQuzvTsb-wR92IR4h_hzgQTsmIkdnawsq-vhFENJXPNCaUvQyclNE9rWTAHf8Ckk9ir1oClqnhWPniyGp9ywO7sTQWM-o/s320/08+Lake+Coniston.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coniston Waters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
From there we drove over the Coniston Waters to the town of
Hawkshead, where the Beatrix Potter Gallery occupies the law offices once used
by her husband.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They had an exhibit of
her original drawings for Peter Rabbit, published 110 years ago in 1902.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her original, self-published book was a little
longer and had more pictures than the published version.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hawkshead is sort of stuck in time as a white
washed quaint village for Beatrix Potter fans to shop in, much more than where
Hilltop House is, probably because it is big enough to have succumbed to the
lure of easy tourist money.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiLt5Xlh5HD8yR0Vwb7u77Xm5ivhAMXXv0cF5qsRTB3tYxh4vHKRpRmpHbmckkzDuyHPN4-VrNw2jVvObptcQeG8NJnQQ1w_7CuarFv1ANqzmhEHrjSQ_WYb5FB56Y-m7YZEIZS4rcs8Q/s1600/09+Near+Underbarrow.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiLt5Xlh5HD8yR0Vwb7u77Xm5ivhAMXXv0cF5qsRTB3tYxh4vHKRpRmpHbmckkzDuyHPN4-VrNw2jVvObptcQeG8NJnQQ1w_7CuarFv1ANqzmhEHrjSQ_WYb5FB56Y-m7YZEIZS4rcs8Q/s320/09+Near+Underbarrow.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View near our cottage </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took the scenic route home around Lake Coniston.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stopped at another stately house,
Brantwood, the home of John Ruskin, but again we decided not to go in, but only
wandered through the gardens down to the Lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>For Swallows and Amazon fans, I can now say that the lake in the book is
a composite of Coniston and Windermere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The shape fits Coniston, and the river coming into it, and the mountain
nearby, but the islands exist in Windermere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was a pretty drive around the lake.</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXFN8evDn0abk-HnzMXX-sc5ikJtP6eF0_gcZAdoob1Gv4CrhgIGsWtPVRc3QqWesDgn57f4y9pc9hhl9ajSxEkD09-wqxGGuNyw9dVMT87yDM0H7d7z_PuFwGScHkK-gmn8UR08XdtY/s1600/10+Our+cottage+and+guest+house.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCXFN8evDn0abk-HnzMXX-sc5ikJtP6eF0_gcZAdoob1Gv4CrhgIGsWtPVRc3QqWesDgn57f4y9pc9hhl9ajSxEkD09-wqxGGuNyw9dVMT87yDM0H7d7z_PuFwGScHkK-gmn8UR08XdtY/s320/10+Our+cottage+and+guest+house.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our cottage is in stone building on left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Wednesday evening we ate out at a pub about a mile
away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a very local crowd
standing around drinking at the bar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We
sat at a nearby table and enjoyed the ambiance and the food.</div>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxGZ82Z-LzpHL8bXioF8-xVAGCxS_t3oRRgtmjZSszlDIjh6GLk4PdGVC9n1l6Cr-0CQ-Ef7XZSDJDPLz5KAe0RpgU2K6Jw6_1U4F6Xur_M9O1wavM6nO2t1R7jJrfdmfjQ3CUjpNcJk/s1600/11+Crosthwaite+Church.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxGZ82Z-LzpHL8bXioF8-xVAGCxS_t3oRRgtmjZSszlDIjh6GLk4PdGVC9n1l6Cr-0CQ-Ef7XZSDJDPLz5KAe0RpgU2K6Jw6_1U4F6Xur_M9O1wavM6nO2t1R7jJrfdmfjQ3CUjpNcJk/s320/11+Crosthwaite+Church.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Mary's Church near cottage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv8egRMhpJXbWdeBCxLVXlnKjrFV8e0nsYISALC5Sh44Jhuo0oWrhIdwex7YZOdr1Sh71djfNdDCsox520kON2pqKgjRQm8Repp-7ox7ULBboQHVh6ZPh5_QPADw50Lvh6rmyBO-n4YsM/s1600/12+Crosthwaite+Farm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv8egRMhpJXbWdeBCxLVXlnKjrFV8e0nsYISALC5Sh44Jhuo0oWrhIdwex7YZOdr1Sh71djfNdDCsox520kON2pqKgjRQm8Repp-7ox7ULBboQHVh6ZPh5_QPADw50Lvh6rmyBO-n4YsM/s320/12+Crosthwaite+Farm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crosthwaite farm viewed from cottage</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8723415587528225315.post-57002942679427760232012-09-13T01:49:00.000-07:002012-09-13T01:49:00.148-07:00Glasgow & Quaker country<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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</xml><![endif]-->To fly to Glasgow, we had to be ready to be picked up at our
Reykjavik hotel at 4:30 am.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was about
a two hour flight, and we arrived at about 10:30.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had booked one night at the airport Holiday
Inn, which is right across the street from the airport.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Again, we were able to check into our room
right away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we took the airport
shuttle bus into town.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately we
forgot to take our camera with us!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>First
was a stop for lunch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Right as we got
off the bus was a Wagamama, a noodle shop that we were familiar with in
Wellington, so we stopped there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Glasgow
looks like a very 19<sup>th</sup> century city – big imposing buildings, mostly
grey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it was also very busy and full
of young people (lots of universities).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We walked up a number of streets to the Cathedral of St. Mungo, which
dates from the 14<sup>th</sup> century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Next door was the Museum of Religious Art, which included art from
around the world, not just Christian.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
is a small museum, and the way it had everything grouped together was very
anthropological and neutral.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I expected
something more weighted towards Christianity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We continued to walk around town and came to the Museum of Contemporary
Art in an old building) and decided to go in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>However, we were quickly bored and glad there had not been any admission
charged.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We found a pub to relax in and
scope out our list of vegetarian restaurants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We asked the bartender where one place was and he went and googled it,
while another patron looked it up on his phone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Finally, print out in hand we set off again and successfully found a
very nice café with record shop (yes – vinyl) and had a very nice supper.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We walked back to the central train station –
glass enclosed and very Victorian – and got our bus back to the hotel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All in all, we felt that was just about the
right amount of time for Glasgow.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-nXvuZB0ZSHQKRU8NFNT7Sm8yiJgQGgg0-Wk_CYi2XUueZfNqxg5cC74HSZrcj2U7Bp0-yp5RQl2SNYqjDUu9JwEpp0ZQ10dEQhzajx1Hn8AwaO6TFo0ig_C9UrWY6rNUZqfH-1fZI4/s1600/00+Top+Bank+Cottage.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK-nXvuZB0ZSHQKRU8NFNT7Sm8yiJgQGgg0-Wk_CYi2XUueZfNqxg5cC74HSZrcj2U7Bp0-yp5RQl2SNYqjDUu9JwEpp0ZQ10dEQhzajx1Hn8AwaO6TFo0ig_C9UrWY6rNUZqfH-1fZI4/s320/00+Top+Bank+Cottage.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtuvMvUi7T8pWeoYju3kR-P8RWkfyZvt6AlB6ga9QI07Bl3TsPkP2V8_doGHss2sZrWMkChxM3_Nlnv4yLwg3qWnvOYQ4gyafqB_iEhvyYAziCu1UxfsIvlvWoT5qDoGWGL8hPlFA2w90/s1600/01+At+play+in+the+fields+of+the+lord.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtuvMvUi7T8pWeoYju3kR-P8RWkfyZvt6AlB6ga9QI07Bl3TsPkP2V8_doGHss2sZrWMkChxM3_Nlnv4yLwg3qWnvOYQ4gyafqB_iEhvyYAziCu1UxfsIvlvWoT5qDoGWGL8hPlFA2w90/s320/01+At+play+in+the+fields+of+the+lord.jpg" width="320" /></a>Saturday morning, after finally getting a full night’s
sleep, we picked up our rental car and headed south, remembering to drive on
the left.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The countryside was mostly a typical
mix of farm, woods, and hills, and the weather was pleasantly warm and mostly
sunny.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At Carlisle, about 96 miles south
of Glasgow and just over the border with England, we thought we would have
enough time to take the scenic route around the coast line.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, it was less scenic then we
expected because we were rarely close enough to see the coast.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weather on the west side of the mountains
was cloudier also.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But it was still
interesting, and we got to our cottage - Top Bank - about 5 pm, which wasn’t bad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a very sweet apartment –
kitchen/dining/living room on the ground floor, and bedroom/bath above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walls are very thick stone and plaster,
and there are lovely gardens and views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> It is one of three set in an old farm building. The large main farmhouse is across the courtyard.
</span>We had time to go out grocery shopping and get back before dark and get
all set up nicely.<br />
<br />
</div>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDc6pTUbNwONdE_CvSG6Yru33ZGA1jVcruk7DmDW1p8m5Lm06RLvy2_koDOu1x4MZGPgHPoMVBW8QqLNlBywncDoC-AeuJAnCv8L6owYYTtLytFJTAG1en7OF4PLLHfmz5pszrGngkT8U/s1600/03+Kendal+Meeting+House+1.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDc6pTUbNwONdE_CvSG6Yru33ZGA1jVcruk7DmDW1p8m5Lm06RLvy2_koDOu1x4MZGPgHPoMVBW8QqLNlBywncDoC-AeuJAnCv8L6owYYTtLytFJTAG1en7OF4PLLHfmz5pszrGngkT8U/s200/03+Kendal+Meeting+House+1.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></span></span>Sunday morning we went into the town of Kendal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are staying in the village of Crosthwaite
which is <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlTPkOuno1HknCGqMF9CiBt6a2L4MdF6pWHMe3LFxJjP9qJczuR6SYVCK13hyE2lJ517GdU9OgrQCuB7VDWH52PVDpkiIVnpOjONLp4dE0hmCQ_R4s4nWL4qGod3_o4OVoYVTl6jCh9EU/s1600/02+Kendal+Meeting+House+2.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlTPkOuno1HknCGqMF9CiBt6a2L4MdF6pWHMe3LFxJjP9qJczuR6SYVCK13hyE2lJ517GdU9OgrQCuB7VDWH52PVDpkiIVnpOjONLp4dE0hmCQ_R4s4nWL4qGod3_o4OVoYVTl6jCh9EU/s320/02+Kendal+Meeting+House+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></span></span>about 5 miles from anywhere.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The little roads are better marked with village names than I expected,
so if you know where you’re going, it’s not bad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are very narrow two lanes though, and we
keep brushing the bushes every time a car goes by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are also lots of motorcyclists out for
a spin on a Sunday, and we were going way too slow for them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If I can, I like to find a place to pull over
and let all the cars by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kendal turns
out to be full of one way streets and pedestrian malls, so it was very hard to
figure out how to get back to our proper road.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Anyway, we went in on Sunday to go to the Quaker Meeting House for
worship.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kendal was an early Quaker
meeting and the current building was built in 1816 to accommodate 850
worshippers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were about 24 there
on Sunday, including us visitors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However,
we were told that 16-17 people had gone over to a different meeting that
day.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was a very nice meeting for
worship, and we talked with a number of people afterwards, and had our
traveling letter signed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGUqEjl1G2q6JOo8JXwmJOBTjmM4WXvQ-EowtVyESPvJT8q-boA8NF2q1g8hjWEX48oEebkJq3qyt5WkfEGIpNFaVQRrP0fU1R4S4-QCzJI_EbsN1ZibNTKgIQJ99QMeeDA4BWpsmP-g/s1600/04+Brigflatts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGUqEjl1G2q6JOo8JXwmJOBTjmM4WXvQ-EowtVyESPvJT8q-boA8NF2q1g8hjWEX48oEebkJq3qyt5WkfEGIpNFaVQRrP0fU1R4S4-QCzJI_EbsN1ZibNTKgIQJ99QMeeDA4BWpsmP-g/s320/04+Brigflatts.jpg" width="320" /></a> After lunch we went to one of the oldest meeting houses in
the area – Brigflatts – a few miles to the east.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We parked on the 2 lane road and walked down
a narrow lane to reach the Meeting House, built in 1675.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a cozy little place and still has an
active meeting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There were a number of
people around, but they turned out to be hikers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did find the caretaker, a woman named
Tess, who showed us around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is
quite a Quaker compound there with the caretaker’s house and school rooms and a
lovely old burial ground. There is a farm house next door where George Fox
stayed in 1652. The weather, by the way, has been lovely and warm, a bit breezy, with fluffy little clouds.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSz8ZR3NN3v2f76Km0hUPMfg0n8zHhdNL3scBTz5APdCK9xlGcDqqjtls3DoXBwoZKmqcdvpDU0-eHocmVzHIGNPSV6ySSgB8V9ifk0Rd1DlMpuLrSlxvudNyMQA-5BerEq8X0Of1MiQ/s1600/07+Traffic+Jam+at+Firbank+Fell.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqSz8ZR3NN3v2f76Km0hUPMfg0n8zHhdNL3scBTz5APdCK9xlGcDqqjtls3DoXBwoZKmqcdvpDU0-eHocmVzHIGNPSV6ySSgB8V9ifk0Rd1DlMpuLrSlxvudNyMQA-5BerEq8X0Of1MiQ/s320/07+Traffic+Jam+at+Firbank+Fell.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbJr6iK0KprHZEf6hh6EvvMtuFGMmr5Yyd9YK1VGrNjZJA6cLkjCTHeuh5rw_ID_wdnTjWlepn0sJT69UtfesW5a0JIDTfIZ9CmHo7WvvHEwW9K9FUbxRD6_dV5uu5iy3CzcwgCsNoCGY/s1600/05+Brigflatts.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbJr6iK0KprHZEf6hh6EvvMtuFGMmr5Yyd9YK1VGrNjZJA6cLkjCTHeuh5rw_ID_wdnTjWlepn0sJT69UtfesW5a0JIDTfIZ9CmHo7WvvHEwW9K9FUbxRD6_dV5uu5iy3CzcwgCsNoCGY/s320/05+Brigflatts.jpg" width="235" /></a> Tess gave us directions to Firbank Fell, a hilltop a couple
of miles away where George Fox first preached to a multitude of seekers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It quite astonishes me that there were 1,000
people who walked up to this hilltop to hear him preach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a great rock on which he supposedly stood.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If it was as windy as the day we were there,
he would have to have had a good voice!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We drove there up a narrow one lane country lane, and had to stop for a
while to let a herd of milk cows go by.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The boy moving them along from the rear was driving a dirt bike.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He assured us that we were on the right track
for Fox’s Pulpit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGprp0Iet6z-HBpjKGeOt1rxDxIdJ_I_PXNC3EhMK6V4CNXKtfomYoZC2qrraC11ghRzJR-fppAOu8KHqgSeV5xP-M5N3NAPP6qNghoHTXOUTC03SrN55RffrYet8imXL78xKMcQnm8uc/s1600/08+Ron+at+Firbank+Fell.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGprp0Iet6z-HBpjKGeOt1rxDxIdJ_I_PXNC3EhMK6V4CNXKtfomYoZC2qrraC11ghRzJR-fppAOu8KHqgSeV5xP-M5N3NAPP6qNghoHTXOUTC03SrN55RffrYet8imXL78xKMcQnm8uc/s320/08+Ron+at+Firbank+Fell.jpg" width="239" /></a>When we got back home
in the evening, we walked the hundred yards or so down the road to the Punchbowl Inn to try it out for a
drink.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It had less of a view than we do,
and was a little fancy for our tastes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It seemed to do a fair trade; however, I can’t see how anybody finds
these places.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are no signs on the
main roads advertising their presence.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78N_J1yw4KO_owDUJH1Als45SzeeH2JeBmsGX05lOJQ0gZq5gYTkFio6apFGQAFGbpjVHt88HkorSlCiK5SrhHDQYswr4OfRWqeOAMfrDd7V8sNX-PljJT_eJBLcZJ8EpSfXLT0-bEdM/s1600/09+Graveyard+at+Firbank+Fell.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj78N_J1yw4KO_owDUJH1Als45SzeeH2JeBmsGX05lOJQ0gZq5gYTkFio6apFGQAFGbpjVHt88HkorSlCiK5SrhHDQYswr4OfRWqeOAMfrDd7V8sNX-PljJT_eJBLcZJ8EpSfXLT0-bEdM/s320/09+Graveyard+at+Firbank+Fell.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Monday we returned to Kendal and the Quaker Meeting House to
view the Quaker Tapestry.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfVq1DFnCIZkhK8or7AUOjesEMmyyB33LB2p7QFaYaYvasYKmqDYIccS47X20V4Bd7J29GmoU-MO61dcnXXce__Cge3fP33A0M_A92cxjcKrydq_CavdoY-uacSForefE-7AQ9SM6RFhQ/s1600/11+Tapestry.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfVq1DFnCIZkhK8or7AUOjesEMmyyB33LB2p7QFaYaYvasYKmqDYIccS47X20V4Bd7J29GmoU-MO61dcnXXce__Cge3fP33A0M_A92cxjcKrydq_CavdoY-uacSForefE-7AQ9SM6RFhQ/s320/11+Tapestry.jpg" width="320" /></a> </span>This is a
project that began with one woman in 1981 with her Sunday school class to
illustrate Quaker history through embroidery panels app. two feet square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are now 77 panels on display picturing
notable people, events, places, ideas, causes, etc.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have been created by many different
groups, mostly in the UK, but also around the world, through 1996.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are not sewn together into one tapestry,
but displayed side by side in two rows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRqu0754t95tsoEO4fABXr6d3aHlusHvSERuYvAta76nAx2WDKtiAcY4d38GjH77kO0ApfmaDeaAM88_mokyUiqHYptBGE7eB891UJV6MysmWmnIEq0fdHjTJXC7tnqkH_mOvnGuX4Ac/s1600/12+Tapestry.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGRqu0754t95tsoEO4fABXr6d3aHlusHvSERuYvAta76nAx2WDKtiAcY4d38GjH77kO0ApfmaDeaAM88_mokyUiqHYptBGE7eB891UJV6MysmWmnIEq0fdHjTJXC7tnqkH_mOvnGuX4Ac/s320/12+Tapestry.jpg" width="242" /></a>
</span>I was also impressed with the number of visitors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The half of the building devoted to the
tapestry gives a good idea of what the original meeting house must have looked
like – very high ceiling with some bleacher like seating along the walls.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It probably also had a balcony to begin
with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is an impressive wood paneling
which was lowered to divide the room in half.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the old days, this was done so that the women could run their own
business meeting separate from the men.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Partly this was done because the women were mostly in charge of the care
of the membership and the men with the upkeep of the buildings, and probably
partly so the women could speak and be heard more easily without men
present.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The caretakers were a couple
from California who have been coming over for a few weeks every year for four
years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are given a flat; I don’t
know if they have to work every day at the Tapestry Centre, but it is
definitely more work than the Wellington Centre.<br />
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After a nice lunch at the Quaker café, we walked around
Kendal, down the river to the old parish church, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHFnYD3ahUQcMDoSNpWkor3IcMsJnL-m_ve3EVKprRLR84EMC3at3Cnb5GCbNTyMp0d5j_P1kwRMmee43NtgMvS4H4rBOnstEm53pk4Q-wz4qbBF0WI6tw1QpGz-gkq6lchu6vf1fLZo/s1600/13+Crown+of+Thorns+Kendal+Church.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPHFnYD3ahUQcMDoSNpWkor3IcMsJnL-m_ve3EVKprRLR84EMC3at3Cnb5GCbNTyMp0d5j_P1kwRMmee43NtgMvS4H4rBOnstEm53pk4Q-wz4qbBF0WI6tw1QpGz-gkq6lchu6vf1fLZo/s320/13+Crown+of+Thorns+Kendal+Church.jpg" width="229" /></a>which was started in the 13<sup>th</sup>
century.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is 5 aisles wide, making it
the third widest church in England.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Next
to the church is Abbott Hall, a manor house which has been turned into the
Museum of Lakeland Life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the
rooms were done up to look like Victorian street fronts, or mine shafts, or
farm rooms, plus lots of general information about the way people have lived in
the region.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsneGbcpyuU_5dboSxBhVd1QLJERUUDLQVUamm5kjaRKesiukzYrI8uGePyehNz9hpp8stmrSKHqNBDTBXc7qDAhfer3IxlHvD5ptlNrPMbU_oO_9sTapLx3TsQul7qXq68320-NBt-YQ/s1600/17th+Century+Fourposter.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsneGbcpyuU_5dboSxBhVd1QLJERUUDLQVUamm5kjaRKesiukzYrI8uGePyehNz9hpp8stmrSKHqNBDTBXc7qDAhfer3IxlHvD5ptlNrPMbU_oO_9sTapLx3TsQul7qXq68320-NBt-YQ/s320/17th+Century+Fourposter.jpg" width="320" /></a>It also included a room
devoted to Arthur Ransome, the author of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Swallows
and Amazons</i>, with his writing desk, sketches and various memorabilia.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake he wrote about is most likely
Coniston not Windemere, as I had thought.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There was a movie and a BBC production back in the 60s that were filmed
there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Finally, we did a little grocery
shopping and headed home.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We have been pretty
good since we got the cottage about eating lunch out and cooking supper at
home, which makes for a more economical vacation.</div>
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AlexBhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10262601037605962014noreply@blogger.com0